Matching repair in chair seat - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-12-2018, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Matching repair in chair seat

A neighbor asked me to repair an old chair for her. After some evaluation, I decided to make a new piece for the chair seat.

Now it’s time to make the new piece match the old.

The finish is very thin. Maybe from age, maybe from wear, but it’s thin. Denatured alcohol seems to dissolve it or at least dull it. Would you guess the finish is shellac? Or, could it be lacquer?

I plan to remove the finish, sand everything and then apply a coat of minwax golden oak. I might put two coats of stain on the new piece if it doesn't seem to darken up enough at first.

Here’s a picture showing an offcut from the new piece with two coats of minwax golden oak next to the whole chair seat. (no topcoat on it yet)

I’m interested in any suggestions for color matching and what finish to use. I do need to match the rest of the chair, or at least get close.
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Last edited by Quickstep; 02-12-2018 at 08:28 PM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 02-12-2018, 08:43 PM
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If alcohol has any affect on lacquer it would cloud it. If it dissolves with alcohol it's probably shellac.

The minwax golden oak appears to be a little too brown and dark. You might try again and water down the stain with some mineral spirits. Since it may be a shellac finish, shellac is one of those finishes prone to yellow as it ages. It might be necessary to use amber shellac to reproduce the aged shellac look. Just be sure to keep practicing on a piece of scrap wood and put a finish on the scrap. The topcoat affects the color. It takes a lot of tinkering to match a color. Patience is the key.
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post #3 of 15 Old 02-13-2018, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well, a new wrinkle...

After sanding the whole chair seat, it appears that the original wood looks like white oak and my repair section is red oak.

Iím not eager to cut it apart, so Iím looking for ideas to make a match between old and new. The old wood has a definite yellowish cast and the wood is hard as stone.

All ideas are welcome!
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-13-2018, 11:37 PM
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I also use Min Wax stains but .....

Over the years I've used just about every stain Min Wax has and I've mixed my own blends from 2 different ones, writing down the ratios on the can. I also made a stain match board showing samples of all those stains on Oak which is my primary wood choice. I have other samples on Pine, but they're not yet on a board for display. Granted, White Oak and Red Oak will stain up differently and I use both for my projects.

What you should do is get some sample strips of Red Oak and stain them in various shades and if needed, mix up a blend to get as close as possible. Save the samples and stick them on a 1/4 plywood board for later use. Eventually you'll have sample boards with different stains and different woods..... very helpful.

Nice repair job!


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #5 of 15 Old 02-14-2018, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep View Post
Well, a new wrinkle...

After sanding the whole chair seat, it appears that the original wood looks like white oak and my repair section is red oak.

Iím not eager to cut it apart, so Iím looking for ideas to make a match between old and new. The old wood has a definite yellowish cast and the wood is hard as stone.

All ideas are welcome!
It's alright, the two woods will finish close enough in appearance. You can kill the red color in the red oak with a green dye if need be. If you don't have any you can wipe it with a solution mixed with concrete mix. Portland cement will give wood a green cast and the color green cancels red. More than likely you can just ignore the difference, the stain will blend it together.
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-14-2018, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Iíve made a mix thatís half golden oak and half natural. Two coats of that on the new wood seems to be a pretty good match for the original piece when I top coat the test piece with shellac.

Iím thinking I should put one coat of the mix on the new board, then after it dries, wipe a second coat over the whole thing.

Does that sound reasonable?
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-14-2018, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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One more thing...

I've been using spray shellac on my test pieces and it doesn't add much color. I think I could benefit for something darker. I have some ruby and some garnet flakes. Do either of those sound like a good choice to orange it up a bit?
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-14-2018, 03:41 PM
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To ask that question about adding color to the finish you need to post pictures of it. I'm just not seeing much color in the finish on the original seat.

You can also make it a lot easier on yourself if you strip the finish off the rest of the seat and sand it. Trying to match a color on one piece of the seat will make it harder. Also where the chair cane was is now pretty dirty. It would be better if all that was cleaned up before new cane was put back.
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-14-2018, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hereís a picture of the chair seat with the finish removed and the entire thing sanded.

The earlier picture shows the original seat with finish on.

Youíre right, thereís not much finish on it. I donít know if thatís from wear or because it only got a quick coat the first go-round.
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-14-2018, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Hereís another picture. Itís the chair back with my test piece there in the center. One end of the test piece is 2:1 golden oak to natural, the other is 1:1. Both are topcoated with a few coats of a light cut of orange shellac. If I can keep it from getting too orange, I might be able to live with this.
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post #11 of 15 Old 02-15-2018, 07:07 AM
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The test piece looks pretty good. If you do anything you might water the stain down a little more.
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post #12 of 15 Old 02-15-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Steve.

I havenít diluted the stain with mineral spirits at all yet, Iíve just cut the golden oak with the color they call natural. What do you think? Maybe 20%?
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post #13 of 15 Old 02-15-2018, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep View Post
Thanks Steve.

I havenít diluted the stain with mineral spirits at all yet, Iíve just cut the golden oak with the color they call natural. What do you think? Maybe 20%?
The color is real close but from what I can see a tad dark. Thinning with the natural or mineral spirits either one should do.
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post #14 of 15 Old 02-15-2018, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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The natural seems to make it yellower, but doesnít seem to do much to cut the brown.
Do you see any reason not to thin with naphtha?
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post #15 of 15 Old 02-15-2018, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep View Post
The natural seems to make it yellower, but doesnít seem to do much to cut the brown.
Do you see any reason not to thin with naphtha?
Naphtha would be alright to thin the stain. If when you do the seat it still comes out a little too dark you can wipe the piece down with lacquer thinner and remove a little stain.
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