how to get excess glue squeeze out off...?? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-07-2010, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Question how to get excess glue squeeze out off...??

i have my own method, but was wondering what you guys do....

mine is to use baby wipes when the glue hasn't gone hard. that works fine for me....
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post #2 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanation View Post
.....mine is to use baby wipes when the glue hasn't gone hard.....
You wouldn't need baby wipes if you didn't do such a chitty job.

Sorry, just couldn't help that one. The devil made me do it.

On the serious side, If I have my egg timer around, I will set the timer for every 30 minutes and check the joint. There is a certain point at which the glue will peel up nice and neatly. If you are not closely monitoring, you will pass that point and wont be able to get it up.
Usually, if I know I wont be there for the drying process, I use a really wet rag and wipe the area immediately and thoroughly. I rarely stain, so I am not sure how effective my flood wiping works. Small squeeze-out becomes invisible under a clear coating.

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post #3 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 12:12 AM
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My method is to use the right amount of glue so you get minimal squeeze out. Other then that I wait for about 10 minutes to let the glue skin over and use some sort of a card or putty knife to scrape off the glue. If it dries hard over night I just sand it off since if you scrape it my pull up little chunks of wood.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 06:50 AM
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"Usually, if I know I wont be there for the drying process, I use a really wet rag and wipe the area immediately and thoroughly. "

Ditto. Squeeze out is going to occur no matter how careful you are with the flue up.

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post #5 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 08:47 AM
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Yes, squeeze out will occur. But the difference between little round bubbles of glue forming near the joint and glue drooling down the sides of the project can make the project cleanup from easy to a pain. Learning how much glue to put on saves glue, time, effort and the chance of that errant glue spot showing up on your stained project. If you put on the correct amount you will have virtually no cleanup to do. When I glue up my cope and bead doors I get upset if I get a tiny amount of squeeze out in the cope bead joint. It is one of those areas that is tough to clean and is very visible when you stain a project. If you are gluing flat stock that will be going through a planer to cleanup then it really doesn't matter how sloppy you are.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 08:53 AM
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For small glue-ups with little squeeze out I'll wipe it down with a wet rag. But with large jobs like table top joints where I'm very heavy on the glue there is a lot of squeeze out and I'll use a newly sharpened card scraper. Sanding is only done after I'm confident I have as much glue removed as possible off the surface since I don't want to imbed any glue into the surface which could effect my finish.

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post #7 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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..mmm ok..wet rag it is but using minimal glue...that sounds good...when i{m sanding i have notice that if i wet with a rag the glue squeeze out the glue gets soft and my orbital sander takes it off rather easily. ive also notice that is really easy to sand down when the wood is wet...can something bad happen if i do this??? the sanding with wet wood i mean... again sorry for my bad English!!!jajajaja

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post #8 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 04:41 PM
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Raised grain might appear later down the timeline and you may have to sand again.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #9 of 14 Old 02-09-2010, 10:36 AM
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I use these brushes for applying glue. They are cheap and throwaways. When on sale at Harbor Freight you can get 36 for $1.99. I usually cut the bristles back a little with a scissor.
For 3 cents apiece, you can afford to throw them away.
I rarely apply glue straight from the bottle.
Leo is right on about getting little to no glue on your surface and eliminate the problem completely. Getting less glue on your project comes with experience and skill. Your skill level increases directly proportional to how much you hate removing glue.
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post #10 of 14 Old 02-09-2010, 11:14 AM
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I guess I am more thrifty than you Tony. I get the same type of brushes (acid brushes) and I wash them out. I usually get months of use out of a single brush until I get rushed and forget to wash it out and find it the next day hard as a rock.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-09-2010, 12:27 PM
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Leo, I do too but didn't want to cop to it.

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post #12 of 14 Old 02-09-2010, 01:02 PM
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I am in business with my woodworking. Just because the brush cost 12˘ doesn't mean that's how much I end up paying for it. I have to go to the store to get it. At my shop rate, it makes those little brushes quite pricey. If you order them by mail you have to pay shipping on them.

I got a bunch of new ones from a bargain store. They were not nearly as nice as I was use to. Now I have 1 or 2 of the goods ones left. I really have to make them last now.

The new ones have more bristles and they are softer. Two things I don't like. The original ones I had a box of 50 or so and they lasted me about 5 years.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #13 of 14 Old 02-09-2010, 01:08 PM
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I am not a Harbor Freight guy, but every so often, I pass right by one. The brushes go on sale quite often: 36 for $1.99. I usually buy 5 packs at a time and that lasts me a very long time. I use them for epoxy work also. When I stop by HF for the brushes, I also pick up their blue nitrile gloves.
As for their tools - well, I'll just leave that alone for now.

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post #14 of 14 Old 02-09-2010, 02:05 PM
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I've never even seen a HF store. There is one a few towns over from me but I rarely frequent that area. The first box was given to me in trade for a paint brush. I don't need no stink'n paint brush, but those acid brushes were great. Good trade on my part. I'm sure that paint brush I traded is long since spent and in the trash.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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