How to get this clear glaze finish - Help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-06-2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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How to get this clear glaze finish - Help

Hello there,
I'm new to wood working. I'm now working on my wood projects making handles and knobs. I was so wondering how to get a thick clear glaze finish like the sample shown in the attached pictures.
I bought different products from Local hardware stores ( lacquer , polyethylene spray can) and put many many coats on the it. The result is not even close to what I need. The clear coat I sprayed on the wood can't even fill the grains completely. So I came to the conclusion that there will be the other way.
last weekend I bought a 2 parts epoxy from Micheal, I followed the instruction and applied the epoxy on my project. The problem was the epoxy is not stick to the wood evenly. it ran and drip too much. Also it took a very long time until it dry.
My friend told me that I need a better, more expensive epoxy product. I doubted about it.
I watched tutorial videos on you tube, most of the videos show how to clear coat on counter top by using bar top epoxy . That is easy, just pour the epoxy on the leveled surface. But for the project like knife handle, knobs. It would be the other way. If anyone know the process of apply epoxy on wood, please help.
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-06-2017, 04:50 PM
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Lacquer or polyurethane would be prone to crack if applied that thick. It would be better to use a pour on epoxy. When finishing a turning I like to finish it on the lathe and sand it between coats while turning.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-06-2017, 06:30 PM
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I have a friend that uses a two part epoxy finish on peppermills and bottle stoppers to achieve that thick plastic coated look. The epoxy he uses takes about 24 hours to dry. He has a motor driven drying rack that he mounts a number of peppermills or stoppers on and applies the finish while they are turning at a very slow speed, like a barbecue spit, maybe 5-6 rpm. This lets the epoxy flow out and dry even. He has to watch for bubbles which he uses a straw and blows on them to eliminate them. The CO2 in your breath causes the bubbles to pop. It's a lot of work for this type of finish, but once it sets up, it is very durable.
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-06-2017, 07:45 PM
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A rod building dryer modified to accept your knobs would do the trick with the epoxy you already have.

A marine varnish could also work but would require 10+ coats to fill the grain and get the build and then it would need to be buffed to a high gloss.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-06-2017, 11:09 PM
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Are you turning them on a lathe?

I've gotten similar finishes using General Finishes Woodturner's Finish and Stickfast CA wood finish.

The General Finishes Woodturner's Finish works nicely, but you need to wait for it to dry between coats. With the Stickfast CA wood finish, you can use accelerator to speed the cure time if you're careful.

I think the Stickfast CA wood finish is basically the same as medium CA, though I could be convinced that it has something in it that helps it flow out.

Either finish needs to be carefully sanded between coats and polished once the finish is fully cured. I use Micro-Mesh and Novus Plastic Polish to polish it - all done on the large.

If you watch some YouTube videos of people making and finishing pens, you'll get some tips.

Here are some links to the products.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-07-2017, 12:29 PM
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You can also use a 2 part automotive clear polyurethane. Apply multiple coats until desired look is achieved.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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