How come I can spray shellac, but I can't spray lacquer? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 34 Old 06-11-2017, 05:26 PM
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I thin most everything till it comes out smoothly. T-77 is $26 a gal. Rather use it than Campbell...Wait....Campbell is S&W....
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post #22 of 34 Old 06-12-2017, 12:41 PM
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I thin most everything till it comes out smoothly. T-77 is $26 a gal. Rather use it than Campbell...Wait....Campbell is S&W....
Well, Sherwin "owns" ML, but Sherwin doesnt make the material for ML, so there is slight difference. Just like we dont make Valspar paint, even though we own them. Sherwin just makes profit off of them, just like PPG makes profit off of their other ventures, like FLOOD for example.

Ive been in a furniture factory in Dillon SC where they kicked out a ML Campbell rep and brought in a SW rep right behind them. Either way, Sherwin makes money.

For the most part, almost all Sealers and Lacquers call to be thinned 10%-15% if you look at their product data sheet.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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post #23 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 08:41 AM
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I spray straight from the 5 gal bucket, so trying to thin doesn't work too well at first. I sometimes use a retarder when its really humid. but for the most part I really don't thin sealer or lacquer. Cant say my magnaklear has been the best. I seen it cloud up or get milky, when that happens, its over. theres no refinishing it. I have to sand it all down and start over. Then no one can tell me why. I've sent pictures to my sales rep and there boss and no one knows. That also happens when I'm down close to the bottom. Not like I domt stir it up well.. IDK..
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post #24 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Catpower View Post
I've sprayed lacquer quite a bit, I use Deft and don't thin it, to me it is about the easiest finish to spray, but the fumes are a problem in a tight shop, so I have switched to dewaxed shellac and water based poly, bot sprayed and I have been getting pretty good results

I will never use water based straight on the wood, it raises the grain too much and I am not a good hand sander LOL
Thinking about hand sanding in the auto body world orange peel is almost always dealt with by hand sanding, very fine grits, usually wet sanding followed by a lot of buffing. Man, I wish I had a nickel back for every hour I spent hand wet sanding someone else's darn car working for someone else. That was on metal surfaces though. I'm not sure you would like the results on wooden surfaces.
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post #25 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cabinetbob View Post
I spray straight from the 5 gal bucket, so trying to thin doesn't work too well at first. I sometimes use a retarder when its really humid. but for the most part I really don't thin sealer or lacquer. Cant say my magnaklear has been the best. I seen it cloud up or get milky, when that happens, its over. theres no refinishing it. I have to sand it all down and start over. Then no one can tell me why. I've sent pictures to my sales rep and there boss and no one knows. That also happens when I'm down close to the bottom. Not like I domt stir it up well.. IDK..
1. Whats your complete finishing system when this happens?
2. What kind of retarder do you use?
3. How much retarder do you put in it....say per gallon?
4. Is the cloudy appearance happening on the first or second coat of conversion coating?

Humidity will definitely play a part in cloudiness or blushing. Sometimes whats under the coating, and how the coating is being applied, will have some effect as well. Applying too much for instance will cause cloudiness in some cases.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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post #26 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 01:02 PM
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#2 got it right, along with #7. Thin it out. If it comes out of the gun in drips, it's too thick. If it comes out in a nice stream (like a water gun), it should be fine.

Stop Skewing around! Use the Roughing Gouge!
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post #27 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by allpurpose View Post
Thinking about hand sanding in the auto body world orange peel is almost always dealt with by hand sanding, very fine grits, usually wet sanding followed by a lot of buffing. Man, I wish I had a nickel back for every hour I spent hand wet sanding someone else's darn car working for someone else. That was on metal surfaces though. I'm not sure you would like the results on wooden surfaces.
I used to work in the body & paint shop of an auto auction, between the prep, the paint, the cleanup, the sanding, the buffing... If I had a nickel for every clear coat I burnt through because another painter was too lazy to clean up their runs before shooting clear....

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

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post #28 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WhoWoodHaveThought View Post
#2 got it right, along with #7. Thin it out. If it comes out of the gun in drips, it's too thick. If it comes out in a nice stream (like a water gun), it should be fine.
Very clever and easy! How much do you take into account tip size? I assume this is done with to the fluid valve wide open so the needle is fully retracted?
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post #29 of 34 Old 06-13-2017, 11:48 PM
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Very clever and easy! How much do you take into account tip size? I assume this is done with to the fluid valve wide open so the needle is fully retracted?
I wouldn't know. I've heard about these methods many times but never tried them myself. I have seen it done many times, but I have never used shellac or lacquer, I use wood oil, stain, beeswax, and olive oil (on my cutting boards).

Stop Skewing around! Use the Roughing Gouge!
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post #30 of 34 Old 06-14-2017, 01:20 PM
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Very clever and easy! How much do you take into account tip size? I assume this is done with to the fluid valve wide open so the needle is fully retracted?
Tip size plays a part. It should flow out of the gun and start to fall downward about 8 inches from the nozzle. Cant really try this step with a cup gun though. Only a pressure pot and a gravity feed.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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post #31 of 34 Old 06-15-2017, 09:03 AM
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It happens on the magnaklear . I use cambel sanding sealer. 2 coats. Its all in a 5 gal pale. I spray straight from that since my systems have a sump. Usually down to about maybe a gal or so left and it would happen on the first coat of lacquer. Thats when I may use a little retarder or thinner. I sometimes wonder if, since it may be sitting there for about a week or so before I use it again and the weather been pretty humid if that has anything to do with it. But I seen it happen in the winter time too. I dont have a spray booth. That sucks. But..so, I'm not just not sure. The magna klear is not suppose to yellow after time. like the magnamax does. But, never had a problem with that at all.
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post #32 of 34 Old 06-15-2017, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ColorStylist View Post
Tip size plays a part. It should flow out of the gun and start to fall downward about 8 inches from the nozzle. Cant really try this step with a cup gun though. Only a pressure pot and a gravity feed.

8 inches... I don't think I get that kind of distance when I'm pouring straight thinner through, but I'm looking forward to doing a test!
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post #33 of 34 Old 06-15-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cabinetbob View Post
It happens on the magnaklear . I use cambel sanding sealer. 2 coats. Its all in a 5 gal pale. I spray straight from that since my systems have a sump. Usually down to about maybe a gal or so left and it would happen on the first coat of lacquer. Thats when I may use a little retarder or thinner. I sometimes wonder if, since it may be sitting there for about a week or so before I use it again and the weather been pretty humid if that has anything to do with it. But I seen it happen in the winter time too. I dont have a spray booth. That sucks. But..so, I'm not just not sure. The magna klear is not suppose to yellow after time. like the magnamax does. But, never had a problem with that at all.
I would eliminate the sanding sealer and just use the Magnaklear as a self seal system. You can probably get away with 2 coats of it and be done. Make sure you keep it agitated while in use. I would also use the recommended retarder for that material as some materials act finicky if you dont.

Here is the PDS for that material:
http://www.distributorserviceinc.com...Coating-PI.pdf

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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post #34 of 34 Old 06-15-2017, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickstep View Post
8 inches... I don't think I get that kind of distance when I'm pouring straight thinner through, but I'm looking forward to doing a test!
Maybe more like 4 to 6 inches.....I exaggerate sometimes. HAHA

Anyway, it should come out pretty good before falling downward.

Matching colors on different substrates is easy. All it takes is patience and beer.
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