The species isn't really critical, but porous woods, or heavily grained woods need to be filled with a paste wood filler
, or also called "grain filler". It's not a wood putty or hole filler intended for repairs.
Once the surface is prepared, it can be stained if need be. Then, a sanding sealer is used, and it may take a few applications. Sanding between applications to smooth the nibs is necessary.
If you use lacquer and can spray, a nitrocellulose lacquer (depending on the brand), or pre-cat lacquer may be ready to spray, or it may need to be reduced by as much as 50%, with lacquer thinner. A store like Sherwin-Williams sells lacquer thinner in slow to medium to fast dry. The slow thinner is a retarded version, and allows a better flow, and helps reduce the possibilities of blushing.
If you can't find the slow thinners, you can add a retarder to the mix, and care has to be taken not to add too much, as it does extend the dry time. Once a coat has dried, you can use 320x dry to sand between coats. It will take many coats to get a build that's robust enough to wet sand and polish.
The last coat, using wet-or-dry silicon carbide paper and water and starting with 320x, and continue with smoother grits. You'll likely finish off with 1500x -1800x. At that stage it will take very little rubbing with compound to bring up a shine. Rubbing compounds come in different grits, and your final polish will be with a very smooth compound. You could use pumice and then rottenstone, but I find compounds that are more specific than them.
Your finishing will be with a very damp rag and a hint of polishing compound to get an absolute high gloss finish. Most any film finish can be brought to this stage if each application is totally cured, using this technique. Here is an example
of that finish done with oil base polyurethane.