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post #1 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Help required Newbie.

Hello Folks!

My name is Jasii and I am from a quaint little town called Dharamsala in India. This is my first post here.

I am redoing my bedroom and paneling one of the wall where the be d will lie with pine. They will get a coat of PU matt finally.
The panels have been sanded and installed (pic uploaded).
I would like to stain the panels a little darker yellow.
My contractor says: Apply PU sealer----Sand---Wood filler----sand---Stain----Sand---PU top coat.

My Q's:
Is this the right way to go?
Is he using the PU sealer as a conditioner?
Any other precautions/advice will be welcome and highly appreciated.

Thank you all for your time.
Kind Regards,
Jasii
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 08:58 AM
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Wood filler----Sand----Apply PU sealer(conditioner)----Stain---Sealer---Sand---More sealer___ Sand---PU top coat.

Any wood filler you use should be used first before any finishing work is done. Then thoroughly sand it. Wood fillers seal the wood so to prevent a halo around where you use a filler it has to be sanded well.

Then conditioner. Pine has soft and hard spots in it and the darker the stain you use shows up this. The soft spots will absorb more stain than the harder places so it comes out blotchy. When you use a conditioner the wood absorbs more of the conditioner on the soft places so when you stain it the surface is more uniform so the stain goes on more uniform. Be sure to wipe off any excess stain from the surface almost immediately. Any stain left on the surface can cause adhesion problems.

Most finishes are very difficult to sand between coats. The next step it would help if you used a sanding sealer. This would build a foundation for the finish which can be sanded very easily. With each coat the finish gets smoother and better because of the sanding you do between coats. I normally keep sealing and sanding until it looks like a good finish and then topcot. You could also use a de-waxed shellac if you have the means of spraying a finish. Shellec is very difficult to brush on the second coat as it melts the dried finish you used on the first coat.

When choosing the polyurethane you use if the wood is stained light in color an oil based polyurethane has an initial yellow cast to it. Then over time the yellow gets darker and darker until it eventually has an amber cast to it. It doesn't show up very much on medium to dark colored wood but on light colored wood shows up badly. An alternative might be a water based polyurethane. It's an acrylic finish which will remain clear and not yellow. If you do use a water based polyurethane it's incomparable with the linseed oil in wood stain. To use that it's necessary to let the stain dry for a week or seal the stain with a de-waxed shellac first.
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 09:25 AM
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No comment on the finish, but aesthetically it would look a lot better if you had staggered your butt joints, it distracts from the overall effect having them all in a straight line.
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much Steve for your time and the detailed explanation. It sure does help.
If the contractor was to follow his way ie: Apply PU sealer----Sand---Wood filler----sand---Stain----Sand---PU top coat
What wrong would he be doing? Also he would be spraying . What precautions should I look out for. The weather here is humid and is monsoon time. Would that effect also?
Kind Regards,
Jasii
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your observation. I have another room to do, would appreciate if you could explained the staggered bit please!

Kind Regards,
Jasii
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JasiiBoss View Post
Thank you for your observation. I have another room to do, would appreciate if you could explained the staggered bit please!

Kind Regards,
Jasii
Specifically the area above the windows, it appears you have boards that are 2 lengths(long/short), and all of the butt joints line up in a straight vertical line. IMO it would have been better to alternate the boards so the joints did not line up.

Even staggered you typically don't want all of the joints to line up, but at least it wouldn't create such a significant vertical line.
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-28-2017, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasiiBoss View Post
Thank you so much Steve for your time and the detailed explanation. It sure does help.
If the contractor was to follow his way ie: Apply PU sealer----Sand---Wood filler----sand---Stain----Sand---PU top coat
What wrong would he be doing? Also he would be spraying . What precautions should I look out for. The weather here is humid and is monsoon time. Would that effect also?
Kind Regards,
Jasii
Assuming the sealer is the wood conditioner, if you apply that first and then use a wood filler and sand it you would sand the conditioner off in those spots and the stain would go blotchy. The wood conditioner in order to work needs to be the step before the stain.

Humidity can have a profound effect on finishing. On fast drying finishes such as shellac it catches the water out of the air and gets into the finish and dries before it can get out. This has the affect of making the finish milky looking and ruins the finish if you don't stop immediately. If this happened and you stopped you could wait until another day when the humidity was down and spray the dried finish with alcohol and it would dissolve the dried finish and let the water escape. If you continue the water would be so deep in the finish you would have to strip the finish off to correct it. On other finishes such as both polyurethane and water based polyurethane humidity can make the finish take 4-5 times longer to dry than when the weather was right.

If it were me given your weather conditions I would take the finish as far as the first coat of sealer and quit until the weather was better. It's not worth ruining the wall pushing a finish when the weather is bad. Still the wall needs something now so should be able to stain and seal it.
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-30-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
The wood conditioner in order to work needs to be the step before the stain.
a

Steve, is that a typo or intentional?
That is what the contractor wanted and we sort of disagreed.

Kind Regards,

Jasii
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-30-2017, 10:07 PM
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In your first post you said the contractor said to do a sealer first. Whether sealer or wood conditioner this is most definitely wrong. A wood conditioner should be used after all the sanding is done and right before staining. A sealer should be done after the stain. A sealer is generally regarded as a clear primer to build the foundation of a finish and then topcoat.
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-31-2017, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Steve!

Update: Did not feel the need to stain the wood on the wall. Will do it for the horizontal planks that will serve as side tables to the bed. These I will stain to match the teak color of the bed. For the moment I have sanded the panels and applied the first coat of PU sealer by spray gun. This pass was slightly diluted with PU thinner. All material used was brand "SIRCA" The color I got is a nice light golden yellow.
After drying the planks feel rough to the touch and not smooth as before. Yeah! I know the sanding will smooth it down but is this normal?

Kind Regards,

Jasii

Ps. Will post pics soon.
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