Finishing / hardening huge pine slab - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 10-14-2014, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Finishing / hardening huge pine slab

Hi, first time poster here, so forgive me if this has been discussed before.

I'm making a dining table from a 5' x 9' pine slab. I want to harden the surface - do I use

1. an appropriate epoxy applied with a 'credit card' and then wipe-on poly

2. ca glue, then wipe-on poly.

3. no glues, go straight to 4 or 5 coats of wipe-on poly.

I want the finish to be 'close to the wood', and I've gotten that with wipe-on poly (and a lot of sanding) in the past.

This is for a client, who expressed some fear that the pine top would be too soft for her family life, but her husband likes the size of the wood. I'd like to do the best for them I can, and any advice is very much appreciated.

thanks!
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post #2 of 5 Old 10-14-2014, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Gardena View Post
Hi, first time poster here, so forgive me if this has been discussed before.

I'm making a dining table from a 5' x 9' pine slab. I want to harden the surface - do I use

1. an appropriate epoxy applied with a 'credit card' and then wipe-on poly

2. ca glue, then wipe-on poly.

3. no glues, go straight to 4 or 5 coats of wipe-on poly.

I want the finish to be 'close to the wood', and I've gotten that with wipe-on poly (and a lot of sanding) in the past.

This is for a client, who expressed some fear that the pine top would be too soft for her family life, but her husband likes the size of the wood. I'd like to do the best for them I can, and any advice is very much appreciated.

thanks!
poly, even though I don't personally like poly. ....but if they want it "close to the wood" it might not take 4-5 coats.

If it was me, and they are worried about durability, I would use a post cat system meaning a post cat sealer, scuff sand with 320, followed by 2 coats of a post cat lacquer in whatever gloss the customer wants. Although if they want it close to the wood, the lower the gloss the better. That would be plenty tough for a table.
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post #3 of 5 Old 10-14-2014, 03:07 PM
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I have used automotive urethane clear, one that takes a catalyst.
Probably about the toughest finish out there and
completely clear.
You'd have to spray it though.

JC
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post #4 of 5 Old 10-14-2014, 08:30 PM
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There isn't much you can do to harden the wood. Anything you could do to harden the wood would be very superficial at best. The best thing you could put on it would be a phenolic pine veneer. It's formica with a pine veneer on it. Other than that you could put a thick layer of pour on epoxy which wouldn't harden the wood but would put a hard layer of finish over the top.
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post #5 of 5 Old 10-15-2014, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies, it's good to get this information from people who've been there done that.

Looks like I'll go with the poly.
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