Coffee Table Advice? water-white, satin finish - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 Old 08-14-2013, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
View cowpie's Photo Album My Photos
Coffee Table Advice? water-white, satin finish

I am a novice furniture maker and have built a steel foundation for a cypress driftwood slab. The top is a 3" live edge piece that I have bleached and fine-sanded. It will be an indoor coffee table so needs some durability and resistance to water.

I've received several suggestions on finish options ranging from conversion varnish to pre-catalyzed lacquer. I'm hoping I can list some desired qualities here and get some expert opinions:

1. clear matte/satin finish - not high gloss
2. hard/durable since a working surface
3. won't yellow over time (water white?)
4. can be applied with a brush (preferably because I don't have a professional sprayer)

Thanks for any ideas you may have. I've also uploaded pictures in it's current form.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 1.jpg
Views:	468
Size:	98.9 KB
ID:	77281  

Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 2.jpg
Views:	183
Size:	98.1 KB
ID:	77282  

Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 3.jpg
Views:	208
Size:	87.6 KB
ID:	77283  

cowpie is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 Old 08-14-2013, 02:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Waynesfield, OH
Posts: 1,510
View Fred Hargis's Photo Album My Photos
Focusing on the water white quality you want, I'd guess a water borne will be your best choice. Consider GF 450, it should be quite good for that application. Be aware that brushing a water borne is not all that easy, so that may be a reason to pass on it and choose something else. You could get an oil based varnish that will yellow a lot less than most....that would be an alkyd/soya oil formula, Pratt and Lambert 38 is the best known brand for that formula. One thing that may be in conflict in your criteria is the "hard/durable" part. By their nature, hard finishes scratch more easily. Softer finishes (polyurethane varnishes) are more scratch resistant...but that assumes scratch resistant is is the same as "more durable".....just something to consider. Good luck with your choice, the table is very nice.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
Fred Hargis is offline  
post #3 of 6 Old 08-14-2013, 02:23 PM
Sawdust Creator
 
ryan50hrl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 8,047
View ryan50hrl's Photo Album My Photos
Well precat lacquer is out from the brush application standing. I'd use watco brush lacquer in satin, I've used it on a number of knife blocks which get the occasional splash with good results.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
ryan50hrl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 Old 08-14-2013, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
View cowpie's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks Fred. Brushing is probably my best option unless I could get away with using a cheap sprayer device (think disposable pesticide pump).

Good advice on the oil based varnish with alkyd/soya. Will research.

By "hard finish", I was looking for a material that wouldn't scratch if people put their shoes on it but also wouldn't become gummy and yellow like you often see in old restaurants/dive bars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hargis View Post
Focusing on the water white quality you want, I'd guess a water borne will be your best choice. Consider GF 450, it should be quite good for that application. Be aware that brushing a water borne is not all that easy, so that may be a reason to pass on it and choose something else. You could get an oil based varnish that will yellow a lot less than most....that would be an alkyd/soya oil formula, Pratt and Lambert 38 is the best known brand for that formula. One thing that may be in conflict in your criteria is the "hard/durable" part. By their nature, hard finishes scratch more easily. Softer finishes (polyurethane varnishes) are more scratch resistant...but that assumes scratch resistant is is the same as "more durable".....just something to consider. Good luck with your choice, the table is very nice.
cowpie is offline  
post #5 of 6 Old 08-14-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3
View cowpie's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks Ryan. That could be a good option too. Will read up.
cowpie is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 08-14-2013, 03:36 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 26,061
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Working it by hand I would probably finish with a water based polyurethane however it doesn't work real great by hand because it dries fast. The oil based finishes are really not suited for light woods because they yellow as they age. If it were me I would get an air compressor and sprayer. Some very cheap equipment can do a fine job for you and would make for a lot less labor. The conversion varnish would be the most water resistant. It is a two part finish you have to mix by the batch and dispose of what is left over. The precatalyzed lacquer is a two part finish also however it normally stays good for 6 months at a time and is catalyzed at the store or factory. There is usually an experation date on the can. A fully catalyzed lacquer would be better but it is a two part finish like the conversion varnish. Then what a lot of folks use for slabs like that is a pour on epoxy coating.
Steve Neul is online now  
Reply

Tags
cypress, finish, indoor, table

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Coffee table and bench advice rmckenz85 General Woodworking Discussion 5 02-28-2013 04:10 PM
Coffee table finish Woodworker101 Wood Finishing 10 12-28-2012 08:24 AM
fix a satin varnish finish into a flat finish ricardo bustamante Wood Finishing 19 11-29-2011 08:18 PM
White Oak Coffee Table TheTexian Project Showcase 23 05-12-2011 04:57 PM
Coffee table advice dmoe Design & Plans 10 12-25-2009 06:58 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome