Clear spray paint over stained wood? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Clear spray paint over stained wood?

Can you spray clear spray paint over stained wood?
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post #2 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 10:45 AM
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Yes, but what do you mean by "spray paint"?. Not all finishes are compatible or interchangeable.

In general, giving the undercoat a one week dry time will minimize problems.

Howie..........
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post #3 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Well I have just regular clear Rustoleum spray paint and would like to use it up. And I think spray finishes look better than when I brush on poly because of the drips.

Anymore tricks?
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post #4 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by aaronhl View Post
Well I have just regular clear Rustoleum spray paint and would like to use it up. And I think spray finishes look better than when I brush on poly because of the drips.

Anymore tricks?
Yes, you can spray the rustoleum clear on a piece of furniture. Be sure that the previous coat is fully cured and be sure to sand with 320 or 240 grit before applying your clear. Most of the spray paints are vinyl base, which will move some what with the wood and will not cold check on you.
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 06:42 PM
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The rustoleum would work fine but be sure the stain if good and dry first.
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post #6 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ah so key is dry stain. Should the stain be very dry before polyurethane too? I would wait 24 hours with poly
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 09:47 PM
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Ah so key is dry stain. Should the stain be very dry before polyurethane too? I would wait 24 hours with poly
Ideally, you want every stain, paint, and other coatings applied to be dry before applying the next coat.
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post #8 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 10:36 PM
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Ah so key is dry stain. Should the stain be very dry before polyurethane too? I would wait 24 hours with poly
Sometimes if you don't let the stain dry enough it causes adhesion problems and if the stain is very wet the components can mix together can cause chemical reactions causing the stain to turn white or some other color especially in the grain or coarse grain wood like oak. Depending on the weather 3 hours should be sufficient with most stains. When it's cool and damp it takes longer. 24 hours would be safe with most any stain or weather conditions.
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 11:10 AM
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Where did the polyurethane come into the picture? From what I've read so far, you are using an oil based stain and a "rattle can" clear finish. Is the clear finish a spray polyurethane or some other type of finish.

I suggest strongly that you prepare a test board. Apply each of your proposed finishes to it and then apply your clear coat. See if the different finishes play nicely together. Many "rattle can" finishes contain solvents and thinners that can damage prior finishes.

Howie..........
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 01:12 PM
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Where did the polyurethane come into the picture? From what I've read so far, you are using an oil based stain and a "rattle can" clear finish. Is the clear finish a spray polyurethane or some other type of finish.

I suggest strongly that you prepare a test board. Apply each of your proposed finishes to it and then apply your clear coat. See if the different finishes play nicely together. Many "rattle can" finishes contain solvents and thinners that can damage prior finishes.
He stated that he would rather use a spray can clear rather than use a brush on poly over a stain...........

If this is the case, then he can use the rustoleum clear over the stain, whether its an oil or a dye stain, as long as the stain is completely dry before he sprays on the clear. Most enamel and vinyl based "spray bomb" clears contain ketones, tolulene, and xylene, depending on the formulation makeup......all of which are sometimes found in most industrial clear coatings and will not impact the stain.

However, it is always best to do a test sample before applying to the project when in doubt as you suggested.

Now do I think it will be easy to use a spray bomb rattle can clear rather than using a furniture related rattle can clear? NO. I know most non furniture related spray bomb clears are meant for a final coating over a prepared flat surface (painted) and do not contain sanding agents needed to produce a slick finish over wood.
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post #11 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Rather than Rustoleum, what would your recommend for clear spray over wood? Or does Rustoleum make a clear spray for wood?
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post #12 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I've used the Spar spray finish and it seems like it doesn't last long. And can never get a good flow out of the can. End up using a whole bottom on a smaller box
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post #13 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 09:25 PM
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Rather than Rustoleum, what would your recommend for clear spray over wood? Or does Rustoleum make a clear spray for wood?
If you insist on rattle spray cans, either Deft or Mohawk sealers work great followed by the same brand of topcoat in a spray can of whatever gloss you would like......they contain ALOT more sanding agents and are made more for wood applications.

It would still take 3-4 coats of sealer and maybe 2 coats of a topcoat to really get a good finish with the cans due to the fact thats it harder to spray 3-4 wet mils out of a can versus with a spray gun, and they do not contain as many solids.
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 10:02 PM
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I don't see anything wrong with using the Rustoleum as long as it's not mixed with other products. I would avoid using spars unless the project is being used outdoors. A spar is a little softer than interior finishes so it can expand and contract with the temperature extreams of being in the cold and hot sun.

If the project is large you might have difficulty spraying it with any rattle can finish. They put out so little volume it's hard to keep a wet edge in order to have a uniform sheen. In other words on large areas it will end up having streaks in the finish. A cheap harbor freight sprayer will do a pretty good job and it doesn't take an expensive air compressor to operate it. I could spray something the size of a chair with a little smudgepot compressor.
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post #15 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys

I started a spray thread based around compressor spraying a while ago. Leanred a lot and found out it might be better to go the can route because the Preval sprayers are junk.

Can you post a link to the "cheap HF sprayer"? Is it an all in one unit or are you referring to a pancake compressor and gun
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post #16 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 11:17 PM
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Thanks for the info guys

I started a spray thread based around compressor spraying a while ago. Leanred a lot and found out it might be better to go the can route because the Preval sprayers are junk.

Can you post a link to the "cheap HF sprayer"? Is it an all in one unit or are you referring to a pancake compressor and gun
I use this sprayer. http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...gun-97855.html I have four of them so I can have two with only clear finishes used in them and one for stain and one for paint. It's not a package. You would have to buy the compressor and air hose separately. My guess is you could get all the equipment for around 100 bucks with coupons.
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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So you are saying go with a pancake compressor and that can do a chair size?
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-19-2014, 01:42 AM
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So you are saying go with a pancake compressor and that can do a chair size?
Yes, There is enough air in a pancake compressor to spray a small project like that. The problem you would run into with a larger project is the compressor would run out of air and you would have to stop and wait for it to catch up but the demand on a small project isn't that much. Of course if you can afford a bigger compressor so much the better. Then that is something you could upgrade later.
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-19-2014, 12:42 PM
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>>>> He stated that he would rather use a [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue ! important]spray [COLOR=blue ! important]can[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] clear rather than use a brush on poly over a stain...........

Yes, I know. That's the reason for my confusion. In a later posting he begins talking about polyurethane.

Howie..........
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