Cedar chest finish? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 12-20-2006, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Cedar chest finish?

I'm down to the wire on my Christmas project cedar chests....any reccomendations on what to finish them with, to bring out the grain, but not leave them with a glossy look?

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post #2 of 9 Old 12-20-2006, 11:50 PM
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Same answer as the first time you asked.
If time is of the essence, you can get a professional looking finish with the BLO and wiping varnish. Use a new can of satin poly and some naphtha (Lighter fluid) and you can be done in 2 days.
Trust me on this one.
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post #3 of 9 Old 12-21-2006, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Now Rob, I really forgot, but I thought I had.....I told Bill last night I was thinking poly, but couldn't remember why I was thinking that...guess I should have looked.....further.....

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post #4 of 9 Old 12-21-2006, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I was cautioned today by our painter (subcontractor) that poly will seep all the way through ERC, and that I need a sanding sealer first, then poly......hmmmmm?

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post #5 of 9 Old 12-21-2006, 04:31 PM
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It isn't going to go "all the way through". It might soak it up real well, but it depends. Some ERC comes out of the planer slick as a whistle and won't suck up the finish as bad as alot of it that is grainier.

You out to wait til Rob comes back tho. I'm not the finish guy I am trial and error and have had alot of lucky guesses really.

Sanding sealr won't hurt it tho. Don't believe it will discolor it.
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post #6 of 9 Old 12-21-2006, 08:58 PM
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I agree with TT. The diluted poly isn't going to penetrate that far unless you made these chests out of 1/8" lumber, or, you soak the things in a bathtub full of poly.
Re-read the original answer about using BLO and making (or buying) some wiping varnish. If you make it and use naphtha, it will dry faster.
Bottom line and DAMHIKT, time is fleeting. You will need to let the BLO dry for a full 24 hours before using the poly if you want to really "pop" the grain. You can get 3 coats of wiping varnish on in a long day, but the more coats you put on, the deeper the finish will be, and look.
According to my calendar, you have about 3.25 days to get these done. If you hurry through it and try to take shortcuts or not allow something to dry...all your hard work will end up looking like, well, you know what.
If you wait any longer, I would definitely present them without finish, then take your time and do them right.
Just my 2 cents.
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post #7 of 9 Old 12-23-2006, 08:39 PM
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I used Rob's recipe for wiping varnish last December for some oak end tables and they turned out great. I didn't use BLO first though. I do have a radiator cover/bookshelf coming up where I'm going to be using quartersawn white oak. I need to stain it dark to match some other antique furniture in the room. Can you stain first then use the BLO and wiping vanish?

Merry Christmas y'all!
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-23-2006, 09:13 PM
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Now, that is one of the situations where I'd stay away from the BLO. Oak has some pretty severe grain and any type of oil tends to keep coming back to the surface as a wet spot (seems you can rub it dry for days and it still appears) Then after it dries, it shows up as a shiny spot.. What you can do though if you want that deep, rich look the old furniture has is to go ahead and stain...let that cure completely then come back with a 1 lb cut of orange shellac. That is how I treat walnut and it really makes a dark wood just glow with warmth. After the shellac, go ahead with your regular finish schedule.
As always, practice on scrap first.
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-23-2006, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob View Post
go ahead and stain...let that cure completely then come back with a 1 lb cut of orange shellac.
Nice tip. I'll definitely play a little bit over the next week or so. This is one project that I'm not on a tight deadline, so I can toy with the finish.
Thanks!
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