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post #1 of 10 Old 06-01-2008, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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cedar chest

I made a cedar chest using aromatic cedar. Finished the outside with danish oil and then polyurethane wipe on. Chest has been closed up for about 3 years with nothing in it. Now when I opened it there is a sticky pitch like substance coming through by the knots and white wood. Wood was supposed to have been kiln dried. How can I fix this? It is a graduation gift for granddaughter.
Thanks,
Don

Last edited by Donmcb6; 06-01-2008 at 12:06 PM. Reason: added info
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-01-2008, 05:02 PM
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Try scuff sanding with 320x open coat silicon carbide sandpaper...the light grey paper, designed to sand dry. You could get away with 320x aluminum oxide, but I don't recommend garnet. Or rub with bronze wool. Don't use steel wool as the metal particles left will rust.






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post #3 of 10 Old 06-01-2008, 06:22 PM
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Only one thing will truly seal wood knots...shellac. Or so I've heard. I'm quite a novice at pretty much all of this.
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-02-2008, 12:47 AM
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Shellac is a great sealing product... Its a lot better than all the other products that are available to the public.
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-02-2008, 06:59 AM
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here's a link which infomed me (a noob) about shellac...near bottom it says about it's knot sealing capabilities...


http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=31



".......and is the only coating in the world that will effectively block wood knots and sap streaks, preventing then from bleeding into the finish paint"
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-02-2008, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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The problem I would have with shellac is that I would lose the cedar arouma, unless I just put it on the knots. First I will try sanding as cabinetman suggested, but still open to other and all suggestions.
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-03-2008, 10:58 AM
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Have you considered sealing the area with a two part epoxy? Maybe not the best solution, and you'd have the same concern re: losing the aromatic benefit unless you only sealed the knots. There are a bunch of good marine-grade epoxies that might work at sealing just that area. I'd leave the thing open for a few days afterward because the epoxies have a pretty strong odor themselves. I guess that would apply to shellac as well, though.
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-04-2008, 08:41 AM
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Really? My impression of shellac is that it's almost completely odorless depending on the type of solvent you've dissolved it in. Denatured Alcohol you buy from the hardware store 90%ethyl/10%methyl smells only faintly, and it's dried in 5 minutes at which point it doesn't smell at all.

Now, BIN primer/sealer....that's another story but the smell still isn't lingering. I think they use butyl or something to extend the working time which is powerfully stinky stuff.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-04-2008, 09:27 AM
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bsheitman, I have only limited experience with shellac a long time ago, but I seem to recall an odor that I thought was pretty strong. My memory could be faulty though. I don't generally like the look of shellac so I go for other options.
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-04-2008, 10:52 AM
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The alcohol odor is gone when the alcohol is completely evaporated and this doesn't take long.

Regards

Jerry
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