Can Ash wood really be finished? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Can Ash wood really be finished?

I'm a fresher here:)
I have a Ash snooker cue that I have de-lacquered to prepare for an oil finish. Now most of the good oil finished cues that I have seen and touched are level with no undulations on the chevrons or the arrows. Iv tried 3 coats of an oil based grain filler and it helped a little but I can still feel and see it dipping on the chevron/arrows..
How can I get it level, spherical and smooth?

Thanks a bunch
Jason

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post #2 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdw6 View Post
I'm a fresher here:)
I have a Ash snooker cue that I have de-lacquered to prepare for an oil finish. Now most of the good oil finished cues that I have seen and touched are level with no undulations on the chevrons or the arrows. Iv tried 3 coats of an oil based grain filler and it helped a little but I can still feel and see it dipping on the chevron/arrows..
How can I get it level, spherical and smooth?

Thanks a bunch
Jason
When you had it stripped was the time to sand it smooth. If your grain filler is dry, try sanding.








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post #3 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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When you had it stripped was the time to sand it smooth. If your grain filler is dry, try sanding.








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Thanks, yes I did sand it after and got it smooth then used the filler with sanding between coats but still there are slight bumps. What about a shellak or a silicone?
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 09:11 AM
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Thanks, yes I did sand it after and got it smooth then used the filler with sanding between coats but still there are slight bumps. What about a shellak or a silicone?
Exactly what grain filler and oil did you use?






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post #5 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Exactly what grain filler and oil did you use?






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It is an oil based filler by Morrells in the UK. This is what is on the tin: Natural mahogany thixo-tropic filler. contains: Silica crystalline. Oh and its really strong toxic stuff.
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 10:04 AM
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You may be having a problem because the arrows and chevrons are a much denser material that the cue shaft. If you sand by hand (without using a sanding block) you will find that the ash sands quicker then the other material. Use a sanding block that is large enough to always be touching each side of the inserts.

George
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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You may be having a problem because the arrows and chevrons are a much denser material that the cue shaft. If you sand by hand (without using a sanding block) you will find that the ash sands quicker then the other material. Use a sanding block that is large enough to always be touching each side of the inserts.

George
Hi George, because its a Cue stick I'm using cut-down sections of differing sizes of plastic pluming pipes and sanding along with the grain with 400-1500grit. And I'm finding however much I sand the cue the chevrons always dip slightly, hence the ripple effect when sliding the fingers along the shaft.
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-08-2011, 01:21 PM
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i'm guessing the uneveness is a result of sanding differant wood/materials. it looks like a laminated product (or heavily grained). sanding sometimes removes more material on the softer areas and less material on the harder - resulting in uneven surfaces.
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