CA Glue stains advice anyone? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-23-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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CA Glue stains advice anyone?

Man, this stuff soaks in fast. I generally work with very dry wood that has seasoned outdoors, often for many years. Anyway, I use the CA to set stone inlay in cracks and knots and whatnot. This stuff is difficult to work with, and can be dangerous - for example if you use it on sawdust, it can heat the dust to smoking and the smoke that is produced is deadly poisonous, essentially cyanide gas. I well ventilate my shop when I pour, and I often wear protective masks. Anyway, I digress.



Because the surfaces I work with are rounded, or oddly shaped, the glue will often roll off the edge, staining the wood. Additionally, it will stain the wood that is closest to the fill. I've tried rubbing candle wax all over the wood before gluing, I've tried being very careful with dripping the glue in and I am generally successful. With subsequent sanding, I can remove the majority of the glue stains, but sometimes sanding just doesn't do it.


I'm hoping somebody here can offer me tips on how to not get glue all over the place, and how to protect the wood from the staining. Suggestions? Thanks!


The pictures show an example of the glue staining and how many hours of fine sanding removes most of it. This one turned out pretty decent, but I'm not often this successful.
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-23-2019, 12:35 PM
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Its permeability is part of its charm honestly. Cleanup can be done with acetone or MEK after, but that runs a chance of pulling it out. Theres essentially no way to prevent "staining", the best you can do is run in small amounts and minimize spillout.

That said it shouldnt take "hours" of sanding to flatten cured CA; couple seconds of sanding tbh. Mind going over your technique?
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-23-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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It's not just the CA, it's also the fill material and the wood- so far as the CA, yeah, the big dribble stains come out early and fairly easily, but in tight spots, like around my brand, or along the edges of the inlay, they tend to show more. Additionally, this wood is often so dry that it sucks up any moisture. Maybe I just need more practice at pouring the glue steadily and carefully. - BTW, I suck at the game "Operation". If you are old enough, you might remember it :-)

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Last edited by welikecamping; 11-23-2019 at 02:28 PM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 11-23-2019, 03:23 PM
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Love operation!!!

Try using dewaxed shellac before using the CA. That should help seal the pores and prevent the CA from soaking in. The dewaxed shellac is also a sanding sealer so your finish can go on over it.
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-26-2019, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Buckmark13. I'll try that on the next project.

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post #6 of 6 Old 11-26-2019, 11:52 AM
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CA comes in different viscosity. Thin will spread to and stain adjacent areas very quickly, but penetrate deeply in the void. I use a lot of CA in turning. First I surround the crack with several layers of blue painters tape to make a dam, then put a small amount of thin CA into the crack, followed by a bigger coat of medium CA. The thin helps draw in the medium, and the medium doesn't spread and stain as bad as the thin. Sometimes I use shellac to seal the surface when I know the tape won't hold.
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