Brush Strokes in Poly:( - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-04-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Question Brush Strokes in Poly:(

I recently stripped a wood veneer round table top. I restained it and was happy with the process UNTIL I used poly.

I applied using a high quality brush and worked quickly and did not overbrush and tipped off. I sanded lightly between coats. Still had brush marks, so I sanded it down and went over it with rub on poly. Now the brush marks underneath are magnified:(

Can this be fixed without sanding it all the way down? I'm nervous about sanding too far and ruining the stain job...also worried about the thin veneer underneath...

Miniwax customer service recommended going over it with PolyShades. Won't I still have brush strokes??

If I have to sand it again, should I use an electric sander? And, what grit?

Help:)
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-04-2014, 11:13 AM
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What "poly" did you use? Oil based or waterborne? How familiar are you will applying clear finishes?

Howie..........
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-04-2014, 11:14 AM
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Did you thin that varnish any before you brushed it on?

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-04-2014, 11:17 AM
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I have found that using a good quality 1" dia. x 4" long foam roller is the way to go on flat surfaces. As far as being able to cover your brush strokes now, I'm uncertain what to suggest. Good Luck.
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-04-2014, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HowardAcheson View Post
What "poly" did you use? Oil based or waterborne? How familiar are you will applying clear finishes?
The first I used was water-based. The rub on poly is oil based and I'm not very familiar with applying clear finishes.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-04-2014, 10:16 PM
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Removing brush marks you just have to keep adding finish and sanding between coats. Using the wipe on poly you just have to sand it very little between coats because the finish is thinner than the brush on poly. Generally three coats of wipe on is equal to one coat of brush on.
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-08-2014, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
Removing brush marks you just have to keep adding finish and sanding between coats. Using the wipe on poly you just have to sand it very little between coats because the finish is thinner than the brush on poly. Generally three coats of wipe on is equal to one coat of brush on.
Steve: Having multiple coats of poly already is going to make it extremely difficult to remove brush strokes - water based or oil. You're very right to be concerned about the "thin veneer" - I don't know how these guys can make veneer so thin but they do and so stretch their profits as to be unbelievable! Saying that, I'm in favor of using a beautiful piece of wood as far as possible.
Back to your problem.
You might try some 0000 steel wool and remove the poly w/o removing too much veneer - but watch this close too - can sneak up on you quickly.
I always apply poly with a white sock, rolled up OUTSIDE IN (the outside is much softer) and of course, even with the sock, I wipe with the grain. The poly is ALWAYS thinned at least to 50/50 and allowed to dry 24 or more hours before sanding with 400 or 0000 - then reapplying until I'm satisfied.
If you have a GOOD HVLP, then you can apply your final coat with a mix of 90/10 poly (oil) and get what I call a "piano finish". You can use the sock 'til the cows come home and never get as nice a finish as that. HVLP the way to go for final - and if you don't have that, then you can "buff" with a good polish wax and there are thousands of those. I like "Breir" (SP). Good luck my friend.'
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-08-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sayger2 View Post
Steve: Having multiple coats of poly already is going to make it extremely difficult to remove brush strokes - water based or oil. You're very right to be concerned about the "thin veneer" - I don't know how these guys can make veneer so thin but they do and so stretch their profits as to be unbelievable! Saying that, I'm in favor of using a beautiful piece of wood as far as possible.
Back to your problem.
You might try some 0000 steel wool and remove the poly w/o removing too much veneer - but watch this close too - can sneak up on you quickly.
I always apply poly with a white sock, rolled up OUTSIDE IN (the outside is much softer) and of course, even with the sock, I wipe with the grain. The poly is ALWAYS thinned at least to 50/50 and allowed to dry 24 or more hours before sanding with 400 or 0000 - then reapplying until I'm satisfied.
If you have a GOOD HVLP, then you can apply your final coat with a mix of 90/10 poly (oil) and get what I call a "piano finish". You can use the sock 'til the cows come home and never get as nice a finish as that. HVLP the way to go for final - and if you don't have that, then you can "buff" with a good polish wax and there are thousands of those. I like "Breir" (SP). Good luck my friend.'
Steel wool isn't going to help much with brush marks. It will rub the peaks and valleys equally. Sanding with one of those hard rubber sanding blocks would do more for brush marks as it would cut peaks rather than the valleys. Then as you apply another coat the finish would gradually build in the valleys as the peaks are being worn down by sanding. Eventually it will become level. Really the best way not to get brush marks is to buy a paint sprayer.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-08-2014, 09:14 AM
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If you have enough build to sand, and the finish is cured, I would use a wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper on a wood block and water to wet sand the surface between applications. If the finish isn't cured, or is sanded dry, the paper can get a build-up that can scratch.

If you use a thinned version of a wipe on finish, do that sanding regimen until you get a smooth finish. If you plan to spray an oil base finish, I suggest to practice first, as it's a difficult media to spray. It's heavy bodied, has a tendency to run, and stays wet a long time.





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