Black walnut Slab finishing - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 32 Old 02-18-2018, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Yes when identify what side is bottom I will test one last time.

As far as waterlox yes I would plan on wiping on with more coats as Iím more comfortable with that. Iím still up in air on finish so opinions would be welcomed Iíd prefer wipeon as well. And end state a satin finish.

Yes I plan on epoxy for the very few spots there are sorry I forgot to include that previously.

So to start, after epoxy is complete. I plan on sanding to 220 to 320 whichever feels right wipe on waterlox as many coats as needed to fill in As far as sanding In between coats Iím unsure of if I incrementally move up grit every time or just do it ever time with say 500. So please chime in on you thoughts.

And as I stated finish Iím still in the air with as of now.

And Iíd like to thank everyone for their help thus far.
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post #22 of 32 Old 02-18-2018, 10:43 AM
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We use Epoxy and to bring down the finish use spray urethane...
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post #23 of 32 Old 02-18-2018, 10:51 AM
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Hawk,
There's a LOT of STEPS that have/need to be addressed in any AND all builds PRIOR to even building. You're getting out of order in the process. The step I know of you're processing now is sanding to 240/320 PRIOR to knowing what finish your going to use. Sanding also has to be according to your finish choice.....with waterlox the max is 120-150 in the raw. I'm attatching a link to another thread going now here involving Waterlox that I've posted the link for Waterlox's recommendations. Other finishes have their own specs. ANY finish you MIGHT think you'd be interested in, go to the brand you'd choose and read ALL the SPECS PRIOR to using.

I noticed Jay White Cloud has posted on there re: sanding finish (actually NOT to BUT you have to read ALL to understand) He also has some posts here about traditional finishes. It's AWESOME to have a person as dedicated as he in his tradtional background AND TONS of information to the old ways which we need to know to prevent/have knowledge on things taught nowadays wrong.

PLEASE read!!!!

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
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post #24 of 32 Old 02-18-2018, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Tim.

Great thanks for the info. Know I have not started anything yet Bc as you eluded to Iím not 100% on the process yet. So yes absolutely I will read however I didnít see the link. I donít know if it doesnít show on the mobile app but regardless Iíll search the forum.
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post #25 of 32 Old 02-18-2018, 08:27 PM
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Tim.

Great thanks for the info. Know I have not started anything yet Bc as you eluded to Iím not 100% on the process yet. So yes absolutely I will read however I didnít see the link. I donít know if it doesnít show on the mobile app but regardless Iíll search the forum.
I forgot to post the link to the thread , post #5 has a waterlox link : http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/waterlox-194577/

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
........www.TSMFarms.com.......... John 3:16-21 ..........
Reveling God's awesome beauty while creating one of-a-kind flitches and heirlooms.
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post #26 of 32 Old 02-26-2018, 08:09 PM
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You can't go wrong with an epoxy finish. I have done oil based polys and they are nice but I just did a wallnut live edge table with ultra clear epoxy and it's the best finish I have ever seen. My only question is where is the best place to get a casting resin without paying a ton to do epoxy rivers? Anyone have any advice? I'm new on here and not sure how to work this website
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post #27 of 32 Old 03-21-2018, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys thanks for all the input I’m hoping to begin this project this weekend. It’s has aclamated for a month moisture is right. I’m planning on starting with live edge removal. None the less the last thing I’m slightly unsure about as I been lurking around reading a lot, is doing a pore filler. Would this slab benifit from this I really don’t want anything to change the light and dark woods color variation but clearly it is a very open pores piece. Any thoughts
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post #28 of 32 Old 03-21-2018, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Correction grain filler.
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post #29 of 32 Old 03-21-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkdriver View Post
Hey guys thanks for all the input Iím hoping to begin this project this weekend. Itís has aclamated for a month moisture is right. Iím planning on starting with live edge removal. None the less the last thing Iím slightly unsure about as I been lurking around reading a lot, is doing a pore filler. Would this slab benifit from this I really donít want anything to change the light and dark woods color variation but clearly it is a very open pores piece. Any thoughts
It's customary to fill the grain on walnut. Still it's a personal choice thing. If you are alright with seeing the texture of the wood in the finish skip that step. If you want it Sherwin Williams makes a good grain filler but it only comes in a natural color which looks terrible on walnut. They can tint it for you to a walnut color. Mohawk Finishing products makes a grain filler that is already tinted. http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=105
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post #30 of 32 Old 03-21-2018, 09:33 PM
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Itís hard to beat Waterlox for popping grain in dark woods. It will amber the light sapwood though. Timís right that it can be wiped, but it brushed just as easily. I usually brush a bunch on every 15 minutes until it looks like it wonít absorb any more, then I wipe off the excess. I do that for the first two coats. Then I brush on thin coats until I get the gloss I want. If your shop is clean and you donít get dust nibs in the finish, Iíve read that you can get away without sanding between coats, but my shop isnít clean, so Iíve never actually done that.

Do be sure to properly dispose of rags soaked in Waterlox to avoid spontaneous combustion.
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post #31 of 32 Old 03-21-2018, 10:59 PM
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It’s hard to beat Waterlox for popping grain in dark woods. It will amber the light sapwood though. Tim’s right that it can be wiped, but it brushed just as easily. I usually brush a bunch on every 15 minutes until it looks like it won’t absorb any more, then I wipe off the excess. I do that for the first two coats. Then I brush on thin coats until I get the gloss I want. If your shop is clean and you don’t get dust nibs in the finish, I’ve read that you can get away without sanding between coats, but my shop isn’t clean, so I’ve never actually done that.

Do be sure to properly dispose of rags soaked in Waterlox to avoid spontaneous combustion.
I'll try this again....wrong button AND WHAMMY it's all gone but the crying
I personally don't fill the grain.....it's rustic and it is what it is...
Waterlox and nibs....... they got me this past week and a half ago.....not so much as dust BUT a few were the wormy spalted maple poop in the holes I suspect BUT the most was from the satin in the new can from factory was stuck to the bottom, after stirring for 5 minutes or more I used without straining the small portion I poured in a seperate container, it had small satin nibs once dried in the finish, I assumed I'd done something wrong, so...I sanded, hand rubbed and recoated as factory specs said and it happened again, that's when I discovered it was the finish not totally stirring completely smooth as designed (LESSON LEARNED...ALWAYS strain a satin EVEN IF it's a new can!!!) I sanded again and put Heritage Natural Finishes liquid end sealer wax on and it's BEAUTIFUL!!! https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...RJT3BvVUZSZU5B

I've got me other Heritage Natural Finishes ordered, I was a little leary about the look I was going to be able to achieve UNTIL I visted their facebook page and seen the guitar makers instruments finished with their products....AWESOME!!!!

Have a Blessed and Prosperous day in Jesus's Awesome Love, Tim
........www.TSMFarms.com.......... John 3:16-21 ..........
Reveling God's awesome beauty while creating one of-a-kind flitches and heirlooms.

Last edited by Tennessee Tim; 03-21-2018 at 11:05 PM.
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post #32 of 32 Old 03-22-2018, 09:35 AM
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The wood hasn't fully dried and it will continue to move until it hits about 6%. Also, one piece sitting on stickers won't necessarily dry flat- put some weight on it to keep it flat or it will continue to move. You could use a piece under the slab, oriented at a right angle- this is sometimes called a 'strongback' and when it's fastened, it causes the slab to become straight.

I have used Minwax poly many times and have come to the conclusion that their floor poly is kind of an unknown finish for furniture. It dries quickly and is more durable than the regular stuff. I have done some test pieces and one time, I accidentally dropped a piece of green ScotchBrite in the pan and since it was scrap, I decided to scrub it into the wood. It did a few things- continued to smooth the wood, scrubbed the finish into the surface and anything that was removed from the wood acted as filler. It dried faster that way, too- super smooth. Once it was fully dry, I used a dry piece of white ScotchBrite to burnish the finish and it was left very smooth with little marking from the abrasive.

If you plan to use paste wax on this, I recommend using white ScotchBrite to apply that, too. I did that to teh face frames when I built my kitchen cabinets and the finish was smooth, with a soft glow- not glossy, not satin.

BTW- gloss finishes are the hardest because they don't have any modifiers so you can use gloss for the first coats and finish with satin if you want, but I would recommend using the ScotchBrite.

If you do use shellac (there's not really much reason to if you plan to follow with poly unless you need to cover sap or something else that can be dissolved by the chemicals in poly), you can pour it on and brush it or roll it. The finish doesn't care if you use traditional methods and whatever works, works. You can also use a cloth, piece of carpet, etc and if it's wet enough, it won't dry instantly. If you can do this when the temperature is lower, the drying time will be extended. If it isn't totally smooth after the first coats dry, it will be after subsequent coats.

I bought some books on finishing, one by Jeff Jewitt. Be creative- you can thin almost any finish, just use the correct thinner. I brushed the poly on the base cabinets and sprayed the upper ones after thinning with mineral spirits. I have also sprayed smaller pieces and it really speeds the process but it's not mandatory.

My mechanic told me "I can't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder".
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