Airbrush - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
  • 1 Post By epicfail48
  • 1 Post By GeorgeC
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 Old 05-31-2019, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Vernon, BC
Posts: 459
View bargoon's Photo Album My Photos

I know nothingabout airbrushes? At a garage sale I recently bought one a "Badger Universal 360" which I learned on-line is ok for all round use.

Looking on-line people use air compressors designed for air brushes.

My question is; can I hook it up to my 26 gal shop compressor?

Thanks all,


THE GOOD NEWS: You create your own destiny...THE BAD NEWS: You create your own destiny
bargoon is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 7 Old 05-31-2019, 07:50 PM
Village Idiot
epicfail48's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Springfield MO
Posts: 4,934
View epicfail48's Photo Album My Photos
Throw an air regulator on there first and youll be fine. Air is air, the brush wont care where it comes from, so long as the pressure is within its range. The reason that those smaller compressors are usually used is for smaller size and portability
John Smith_inFL likes this.

I need cheaper hobby
epicfail48 is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 05-31-2019, 08:12 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,995
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Usually an airbrush is for hobby use is why they make little compressors for that so it's easier to use indoors. There isn't any reason you can't any compressor if you regulate the pressure down.
Steve Neul is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #4 of 7 Old 06-01-2019, 12:17 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 12,393
View GeorgeC's Photo Album My Photos
I have used a cheap air brush for small projects. Just hook to my normal compressor.

John Smith_inFL likes this.
GeorgeC is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 06-01-2019, 12:57 PM
John Smith_inFL's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,629
View John Smith_inFL's Photo Album My Photos
Brian - the size of the compressor and storage tank is not the issue.
a good quality pressure regulator and moisture trap is the main
requirement when running an airbrush. (or any paint gun, for that matter).
the medium that you intend to spray determines the air pressure
you need for any particular gun.
practice practice and practice with different mediums until you get the hang
of how the tool performs in your hands.
there are no set rules for airbrushing. . . . just practice and have fun with it.

here is a small sign I made a few years with airbrushed shading details.
the AB I had at the time was the entry level Badger like yours and it worked just fine.
it is not the tool - but the craftsman using it.
Attached Images

there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks.
John Smith_inFL is online now  
post #6 of 7 Old 06-08-2019, 02:40 AM
600 Grit
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: People's Republic of Kalifornia
Posts: 31
View Andrew LB's Photo Album My Photos
Mr. Smith has it right on the money. The quality of air filtering and regulation is very important. Whether you're using an airbrush or an HVLP with an air compressor, a simple oil/water separater filter isn't enough IMO. Attached to my filter is a whip hose which i run up the wall and back down to a Filter/Dryer which the hose to my sprayer attaches. They can be quite expensive but the trick is to buy this from harbor freight, and replace the filter inside with a filter/desiccant cartridge that DeVilbiss sells as a replacement for their $200 system.

Andrew LB is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 06-08-2019, 01:21 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 443
View Larry Schweitzer's Photo Album My Photos
Andrew is correct about having clean DRY air to do quality work. A desiccant drier will eliminate water, a moisture trap will not. As air goes from higher pressure to lower, as at the nozzle of a paint gun, the temperature is dropped and most likely you will go below the level where condensation will occur = water droplets in you finish. Much more likely to occur in the humid summer than cold winter. There is a second method to reduce water vapor in you system, refrigerated drier. Expensive for the home guy but the normal practice for production shops. Most desiccant is sold with a color changing chemical in it so you can see when it is time to rejuvenate it. Just spread it on a cookie sheet in the oven at low temperature.
Larry Schweitzer is offline  

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome