TS Blade Guard - is it on? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 31 Old 01-09-2018, 04:31 PM
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I work with computer keyboards and play piano. That is why I bought the Bosch REAXX table saw, which explosively drops the blade the instant you touch it, similar to a SawStop. Besides, I can't count higher than nine. :-)

Even though I have a "safe" saw, I always use all the guards whenever I can - blade guard, riving knife, and anti-kickback pawls.

What scares me the most is the bandsaw, because it does not have a guard or other finger protection. It is so tempting to put my thumb on the cut line when I am re-sawing boards. If I use a push stick, it is harder to control the board. I am still working on the best, safest approach that works for me, which will allow me to keep control of boards during a re-saw. Yeah, I've watched the YouTube videos, but there is no consistency, and I believe that some people (who should know better) are not operating their bandsaws in a safe manner. I understand that experienced people can know when it is safe to break the rules, but some of their actions look unsafe to me.

I just went to the local Rockler for a table saw demo on Saturday. The demo person did a great job explaining how to use the table saw safely. He stated them as a set of rules to follow. Things like, "Always keep the waste part of a cut on the left side of the blade." Afterwards, I observed that he broke most of those rules at one time or another while demonstrating various cuts on the saw as he made parts for a storage cabinet. None of the rule-breaking actions were particularly unsafe. A few moves were riskier than I would have done, but within the range of "okay for experienced people." Another customer was a young man who was shopping for a table saw. I would have preferred that the demo person had not made the risky moves, to avoid setting a bad example.
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post #22 of 31 Old 01-09-2018, 05:51 PM
where's my table saw?
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The bandsaw can be intimidating ...

With 8" to 12" of exposed blade running at 4000 FPS, it can be scary....
until you get your cut started and the blade is contained within the material.

As I used the bandsaw more and more, when I got to the end of the cut, where my fingers were definitely in the blade's cutting path, I switched to a push block resting on the table, not unsupported half way up. Another tip I learned is to pull the last 1" or so through from the back side of the saw. Be certain to stand behind the saw and NOT in front, reaching around the blade, because when the blade break through it will jump forward since there is no longer any resistance. Finally, a tall fence will stabilize the material when resawing way better than the stock fence.

A big plus on the bandsaw is that you will never have a kickback, unlike on the table saw where the blade is a wide plane rather than 1/2" or 3/4" wide blade. When you twist the workpiece on the table saw it will bind and kickback. When you twist the workpiece on the bandsaw, you will get a curved cut, and sometimes that's the whole reason for using it.....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #23 of 31 Old 05-10-2018, 08:51 AM
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Never had a guard on my saw. Don't want one.
Pay attention. Use common sense. Sharp blade. Proper saw setup. Pay attention.
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post #24 of 31 Old 05-10-2018, 10:25 AM
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Sorry I keep diving into this thread, but allow me to point out that "guard" has different connotations for different people. My Bosch REAXX table saw has four different safety mechanisms, each of which are separate and mostly independent:

* The blade guard has two separate curvy pieces that lift up and down as the wood passes under them.

* The anti-kickback pawls have sharp fingers that press down on the back of the board as it exits the saw blade. The fingers are supposed to dig into and stop the wood if it suddenly reverses direction, as in a kickback.

* The riving knife is not removable. It curls over the back and top of the blade. It has three positions: (1) Fully retracted, (2) raised halfway so that the top of the riving knife is approximately the height of the blade, and (3) fully extended, where it goes over the top of the blade and serves as an attachment point for the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls.

* The blade retraction mechanism that explosively retracts the blade if you accidentally touch it. There is a bypass switch so you can cut wet wood, treated wood, or wood with metal in it.

When I say that I use the blade guard whenever possible, that means that the riving knife is raised fully, with the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls attached.

If I use the GRR-Ripper push blocks, I remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls, and leave the riving knife set in its halfway position, even with the top of the blade.

If I use a dado blade or make other non-through cuts, then I remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls, and lower the riving knife fully. I always use push blocks in those situations.
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post #25 of 31 Old 05-10-2018, 11:33 AM
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Not on saw at all.
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post #26 of 31 Old 05-10-2018, 12:34 PM
where's my table saw?
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My blade "guard" .....

My blade guard is not factory issued. I found the factory guard real awkward to use and the anti-kickback pawls were a real pain. I hated it to the point I drilled out the plastic cover and the kickback pawls leaving the splitter plate. The splitter stays in the saw 24/7 now. I made a thin wood blade cover from 2 pieces of 1/4" plywood with a spacer between them. It is friction adjustable so I can orient it at any angle from full down on the table to up at a 90 degree angle. It does two things fro me. I keeps the sawdust from shooting into my eyes and somewhat keeps my fingers away from the blade, though it's not fool proof. It works for me ......

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #27 of 31 Old 05-11-2018, 02:27 AM
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Since I'm still experimenting with growing back my recently sawn fingertip the answer is not until I finally get the snazzy new Sawstop .. Then it'll be on almost always unless I has to come off for specific tasks..
My fingernail is starting to grow back, but not quite where I want so I may end up having surgery to fix it.. I grew a new lump of gnarly skin over top of the nail..

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?

Last edited by allpurpose; 05-11-2018 at 02:29 AM.
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post #28 of 31 Old 05-11-2018, 06:58 AM
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I manage a woodshop, and since there are operations which are impossible with a guard or sometimes a knife, I purchased sawstops for those 2 saws - dado and narrow/through cuts.
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post #29 of 31 Old 05-11-2018, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by new2woodwrk View Post
While I have my Rife and my Anti-Kickback Pawl always on, I seldom have my Blade guard on.

I think once I get the guard set up for dust control, it will be on all the time.

So, is your guard on all the time? Be honest please.

To be honest, right now I could not tell you even where it is stored. When I first bought the saw those many, many years ago I tried it. It was so complicated to work around that I felt less safe with it on than off.

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post #30 of 31 Old 05-11-2018, 08:26 AM
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I have never used a guard but I might in the future. I learned to never say never.

Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #31 of 31 Old 05-15-2018, 01:28 AM
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My Grizzly G1023RLWX table saw blade guard is always on for through cuts. Non-through cuts such as dados, grooves & rabbets require the blade guard to be off. The dado and groove cuts are dangerous at the beginning and end of them, because the blade is exposed. Push blocks, push sticks and other devices help with keeping my hands away from the spinning blade during non-through cuts.

Shop made zero clearance inserts (ZCI) keep small cutoffs from getting wedged between the standard insert and the blade. My inserts have 1/2" and 1" holes drilled into them. The holes allow the dust collection to hold boards down on the table as well as move saw dust from the top of the table to the cabinet. (ZCIs also create clean cuts on plywood.)

The standard Grizzly riving knife keeps ripped boards from squeezing in on the back of the blade and getting launched at me. The Grizzly anti-kick back paws keep boards from moving backwards.

I use feather boards a lot to keep boards tightly up against the fence (horizontally). Feather boards are great at keeping my dados and grooves from wandering. Feather boards also help keep boards from being launched off the back of the saw blade. Feather boards can also be used to hold boards down (vertical) to the table.

The Grizzly G1023RLWX table saw standard blade guard does a good job of keeping me safe. It has very effective kick back paws and the plastic sides are very heavy. The only complaint that I have with the standard blade guard is that it has NO dust port. The blade shroud is suppose to help with saw dust collection, but I found it to be pretty much worthless.

I recently purchased a Shark Guard (www.thesharkguard.com/). I should have done it years ago. I found the Shark Guard to be a very well designed, engineered and manufactured product! Yes, it cost over $200, but keeping saw dust out of my face while I am using the table saw is well worth the $200.


Ain't technology grand........when it works.
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