My workshop floor is not level.... - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-02-2009, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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My workshop floor is not level....

I have a large pole barn (60'w x 40' deep) with a concrete floor out back that I plan to partly enclose to make a 20'w x 40' deep workshop.

Now that I starting to lay out some of the ideas and figure things out I find out that the floor is far from level. I expect the original owners that built it wanted rain water to run off of the floor.

I have a difference of 8.5" in height from the front to the back (the 40' length.)

It is fairly easy for me to pour a concrete footing to sit the new framed walls upon to make the walls straight and level, but the floor will still slope downward from front to back.

Can anyone see any major issues for woodworking with this sort of design? (other than making me crazy looking at it every day?)

I see issues, albeit small, with things like outfeed tables for a table saw and such not aligning properly. Wall cabinets that are installed level will not line up with any workbench or tool that i have sitting on the floor.

I can pour a whole new slab on top of the existing slab to level it out, but $$$ and work I expect. looks like about 15 yards of concrete alone.

Am I nuts to proceed? Or don't worry about it.....?
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post #2 of 9 Old 11-02-2009, 10:12 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Am I nuts to proceed? Or don't worry about it.....?

Personally, it would drive me "nuts". I recently had a garage floor which was sloped to the center 30 x 26 ft and all the contractors wanted to break it out and start over to make it flat. I came up with the idea to make leveling strips about 5 ft apart of "rich portland" concrete and then fill between then alternately as each of the section cured. It turned out level, flat and I'm happy with the result. A difference of 8" or 9" is considerable in your case, mine was about 3'' at the center tapering out to the edges. I guess it boils down to a cost effectiveness issue. Can you live with it and save the money????After a while you will start standing at an angle to compensate for the slope bill
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-02-2009 at 10:16 AM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-02-2009, 10:22 AM
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Uneven floor

TK,
First it depends on how much money you are willing to spend for your piece of mind for a level floor. If it were mine, and i repeat, if it were mine, i would put a wood floor over the concrete. Here is how i would do it, pour the footer for the end walls only. The floor itself would be constructed of treated wood and layed out the same (16" on center) as you would if it were built untirely of wood, only tapering the joists from the high point to the low point and make sure everything was tapconned to the concrete. I am not the best at explaining but if you have a question send me a PM. OMT -- i agree with WoodnThings on his method of leveling the floor except i would get a quote on the price of concrete versus the cost of the wood only because of the amount of drop you have 8-1/2" from high to low point and the sheer size 20'x40' with an average of 4-1/4" depth on the concrete. LOL, i am only about 150 miles away and i work cheap, just kidding.

Last edited by garryswf; 11-02-2009 at 10:59 AM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 11-02-2009, 11:04 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Garry, great idea!

A raised wood floor will allow for wiring and dust collection ductwork underneath, always a good idea in a shop. Even if it's"slightly" more expensive I'd go for it. Another advantage is warmth and comfort if it's in a cold climate, not in your case though. It will allow a place for the alligators to breed. Concrete is cold and hard on the feet, joints. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-02-2009 at 11:06 AM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 11-02-2009, 11:29 AM
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Just an idea

I did exactly what you just posted Bill. When i poured the floor in my old shop i ran two conduits to an all weather electric box that was in the floor, after the concrete was poured and set i ran 220V from 2 different breakers to the box in the floor. One for the TS and one for the jointer which were beside each other, no cords running across the floor.
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-03-2009, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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A raised wooden floor would probably work, but not sure for how long. The slab is pretty low and does get some water from time to time. I would have to block the water from the wood at some point. That is why I was going to pour a concrete footing for the framed walls, just to get it off the ground.
The fall is about 1/4" per foot, as much trouble as it is going to be, I think the idea of the new slab on top of the existing one seems better.
I have 5 acres - maybe I should just leave the $%^%#$ pole barn and build a new proper shop in a different location. Start from scratch
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post #7 of 9 Old 11-03-2009, 11:23 AM
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Yup !

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 9 Old 11-03-2009, 01:32 PM
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My shop, garage, slopes three inches in sixteen feet
and I really never notice it. The work benches are
level.
When the boat is in there, I have to block the wheels
or it will roll out the door.

Not anything I would spend money to fix.


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post #9 of 9 Old 11-03-2009, 10:36 PM
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Murphy's law of dropped chisels.

A dropped chisel will always land keen edge first.

The raised wood is an excelent suggestion. The wood floor will be easier on your feet while standing.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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