Dust Collection in woodnthings shop part 1 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-30-2010, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Dust Collection in woodnthings shop part 1

This thread will show how I collect the dust from the table saw, jointer planer and a sliding miter saw.
I use a combination of PVC couplers and dust collector flare fittings for quick change connections. I run 4" flex hose right from the Jet 1100 remote controlled DC to the flex hoses either hanging from the bottom of the machines or those that can be "plugged" in from above.
The table saw has an over arm dust collector that also functions as a guard by keeping your hands away from the blade. It virtually sucks all the dust that spits off the front of the blade, making cut safer and more user friendly. The shop vac a Rigid 6.5 HP will lift the work off the table in front of the blade, if you set the suction end too close.
All my dust system collectors are on remote on/off switches including the shop vac. So I can control them from the table saw and you will see them just to the right of the fence.
The jointer has a sheetmetal plate on the table which has a dump port into a 6" to 4" reducer.
There is also a remote controlled Jet ABS1000 air filtration unit overhead. Also there is a ceiling exhaust fan above that for really big air exchanges. Sometimes I spray a little in the shop.
This post is photo heavy. Maybe you will find it helpful. bill
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-30-2010 at 06:50 PM.
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post #2 of 21 Old 10-30-2010, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Part 2

Shop vac hose and 2" PVC don't fit all that well, so a plastic bottle section acts as a spacer to build it out to fit snug. You can use tape wrapped around but this is cleaner.
I can use different ends on the overarm collector to find which works best under most conditions. A clear section would be best. So far I haven't found one. The sliding miter saw needs a dust should behind the machine to catch all the dust, but this works fairly well for most of my work. Here again nothing fits exactly so shims are needed to connect a house vacuum hose to the PVC and then to the Dewalt port.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-30-2010 at 01:48 PM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-30-2010, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Part 3

The 4" PVC coupler and the flare dust collector fitting are a good fit and the suction created keeps them together.
Between the overarm and shop vac, the ports under the table saw and the Jet overhead air filtration unit, the dust in the shop from the table saw is pretty much minimized.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-30-2010 at 01:49 PM.
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post #4 of 21 Old 10-30-2010, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Part 4

The conversion of the Jet 100 to cardboard drums was a little tricky. Nothing sealed up to anything, but they were so close to fitting that some foam gaskets worked.
Photo no 2 shows the adaptor sitting on top of the Jet DC housing, that's not where it goes! Photo Fart. It goes on top of the drum as shown in photo 4, sorry.
The trickiest part was an adaptor made of 2 feeding trays from Tractor Supply with almost the entire bottom removed from each one, then taped together one up, one down.
The dust barrel weighs about 45 to 50 lbs when 3/4 full. That's about all I can carry with my finger tips under the rim down 15 stairs to the ground. The dust goes into the compost pile and some compost activator will help the worms grow fatter.
TAIGFN bill
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Last edited by woodnthings; 10-30-2010 at 01:59 PM.
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post #5 of 21 Old 11-05-2012, 08:32 PM
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i like that drum, but what indicates that it is full, or approaching capacity? any thought of adding a baffle to the drum ring like the vortex cone? almost anything will work better than nothing and greatly reduce anything going towards the canister, so it stays cleaner longer maintaining air flow.

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #6 of 21 Old 11-05-2012, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah

I've tried various buckets with tapered sections and I'm about to try a Wok shaped cone. RetireLE made a vortex cone from a chimney cap...total cost under $20.00! My kind a guy.

As far a "full" indicator probably a clear window or a microswitch with a light indicator. I've had it overflow and that's not pretty. The whole point was to collect the dust, not spill it all over the shop floor. Even a drum that's 2/3 full is pretty heavy. Handles might be a good idea for carrying it outside. They could also serve as a place for the bungee cord hooks to grab onto.
Dust collection is an ongoing challenge.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 08:49 AM
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Very informative!



Any chance of getting internal photos of the 4" PVC coupler and the flare dust collector fitting so we can see how the suction created keeps them together?

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post #8 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 01:57 PM
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I like it Your over head collector has given me some good ideas on how to make a blade guard for my table saw so I don't repeat my recent experience with flesh meeting spinning blade.

I must be doing something differently from everybody else because my home made system only connects under the saw and I get very little (if any) dust thrown on top of the table. All I have is a hopper connected to an Oneida cyclone and then to a shop vac with 2 1/2 hoses.

If Woodworking is so much fun why isn't it called WoodFUNNING?

I've made a few videos
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post #9 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdntrdr View Post
Very informative!



Any chance of getting internal photos of the 4" PVC coupler and the flare dust collector fitting so we can see how the suction created keeps them together?
It's difficult to "see" suction..... JMO.
The 2 parts are a slip fit and when the DC is turned on they are drawn together. Probably a little leakage but no "giant sucking sounds" as Ross Perot would say.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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This is my current set up

The PVC pipe is slotted to slip over the splitters and then the shop vac is connected off the rear. You can do a single or double if the splitter are the same height. Sometimes when ripping I just the single on the left side. I take the right side pipe using a 90 degree elbow and go directly to the shop vac.
I still need an extra wrap of tape or a slice of plastic bottle to build up the thickness for a tight fit.


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post #11 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 02:42 PM
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Very informative. Thanks for posting Bill.
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post #12 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'm a cheapskate

So when I looked into factory made overarm collectors selling for upwards of $200, I thought I could probably make something that worked just as good for far less. Ideally you'd want the nozzle to ride up and over the material but it only takes a second to set it at the correct height...plus 1/4" for it to clear.

Probably about $20.00 in PVC, hose clamps and electrical tape.

The earlier version had a vertical mount that was attached to the saw table top and you could rotate out of the way easily. This one comes off in a second because the fittings are just snug enough to hold without any glue. There's probably a better end fitting just waiting to be tried out...I donno?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 12-27-2013 at 10:55 PM. Reason: typo
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post #13 of 21 Old 11-06-2012, 06:14 PM
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woodenthings
Thanks for posting that! There are a lot of good ideas there. I bookmarked it.
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post #14 of 21 Old 11-28-2012, 10:50 PM
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Nice table saw arm. I've have yet to find the value in forking down a couple hundred dollars for a store sold table saw dust collection hood but have thought about piping my own down several times considering I already have a dust collection plumbed in near by.
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post #15 of 21 Old 12-09-2012, 12:15 PM
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nice shop!
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post #16 of 21 Old 01-30-2014, 02:42 AM
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Thanks for the photos. I have gotten a few new ideas for my dust collection. I have a Jet DC1100. I would like to use either a 5" or 6" flex hose between my DC and my jointer and planer. Can you tell me where you got your reducer for the Jet DC input? I was looking at Grizzly and there are a couple of different types. They also appear to be about $50 +shipping. Hopefully, you have a less expensive supplier.

Thanks,
Eric
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post #17 of 21 Old 01-30-2014, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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reducers

This is a common reducer for HVAC available at Home Depot. They have several sizes... 6" to 5", 6" to 4" etc. It may not fit exactly but a few wraps of tape will fix that.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #18 of 21 Old 07-17-2014, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
This is a common reducer for HVAC available at Home Depot. They have several sizes... 6" to 5", 6" to 4" etc. It may not fit exactly but a few wraps of tape will fix that.
Actually, my 6" diameter flexible hose fits right on the Jet DC-1100 port. I just removed the plastic cap with the two (2) 4 inch ports and slid the 6" flexible hose over the 6" port and attached a clamp. It works great.
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post #19 of 21 Old 07-19-2014, 12:01 PM
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Bill,

Thanks for the photos. Oneida sells a light sensor and strobe light that you can set up to indicate how full your chip bin is getting. I set mine up to light at 2" from the top and I found out that you better stop at that point since my planer can generate a lot of chips in a hurry.

I like your overarm table saw collector but, I puzzled at the amount of chips on the saw table in your pictures? I have my saw cabinet sealed pretty well and the cabinet is connected to my Oneida V-3000 but the blade still spits out a lot of dust. How effective is your overhead collector?

Jack
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post #20 of 21 Old 07-20-2014, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
As far a "full" indicator probably a clear window or a microswitch with a light indicator. I've had it overflow and that's not pretty. The whole point was to collect the dust, not spill it all over the shop floor. Even a drum that's 2/3 full is pretty heavy. Handles might be a good idea for carrying it outside. They could also serve as a place for the bungee cord hooks to grab onto.
Dust collection is an ongoing challenge.
I built my barrel and put a clear plastic window in it for checking the sawdust level. (see my post at http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f32/p...ormance-59625/ for photos)

Cutting parts - The barrel was pretty easy to build and quite fun, once I figured out a good process. The barrel has 16 sides. Each slat has the side cut at 11.25 degrees. Cut the length to match the finished barrel height.

Cut the top and bottom on the table saw with the aid of a couple of jigs. (See the attached PDF files)

Cut one of the slats to hold the fill indicator window. I used a rabbet bit on the router to recess the clear plexiglass into the slat.

Assembly - The easiest way to assemble it was to lay all 16 slats flat on a bench with the outside up. Then run about six strips of masking tape (the heavy duty kind, like the blue painters tape) across the slats. Flip the slats over (that got a little tricky by myself) and then put glue on one side of each slat. Roll the slats together and put a band clamp every twelve (12) inches around the barrel. Make sure that you have the top and bottoms already cut, because you will need to put them in immediately after the band clamps. DON'T GLUE the top and bottom in. The top and bottom will keep the openings correctly aligned while the glue dries.

Casters - After the glue has dried, you can remove the top and bottom. I used another piece of 3/4" plywood and attached two fixed and two locking swivel casters to it. Then I attached that assembly to the 16 sided bottom. I attached them to the bottom of the barrel with screws for easy removal later. Make sure that the bottom fits snugly without any air leaks.

Top - I cut a round top to attach to the 16 sided top. The diameter needs to be larger than the cross-section of your barrel at two opposite points. This keeps the assembled top on the barrel top. Cut whatever size holes that you need for your connectors and hook it up.

Handle - I added a handle that I cut on the bandsaw. It helps pulling the barrel around.

Emptying - Emptying the barrel can be a challenge. I have a two foot drop off outside my shop that I can just tip the barrel over and lift up the bottom to dump the sawdust into the garbage bag that I attached to the open top of the barrel with a band clamp. Just make sure that you leave an opening in the plastic bag to let some air in as you tip the barrel.
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File Type: pdf Polygon16SidedLinerRev01.pdf (13.6 KB, 269 views)
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