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post #1 of 8 Old 05-06-2009, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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you think this will work?

so you guys have been great, so im going to ask your opinions on my homebrew sharpening jig i constructed today. i have never had to sharpen chisels in my life (even though i do remodel for a living). this little setup seems like it is effective, although my def of sharp and others may be different.
essentially i threw a new medium grit norton wheel on my grinder and then built this structure out of hickory. the ramp pivots on a purple heart dowel i made on the LATHE and is quite snug on its own. to determine the angle i set a chisel on the ramp with a bright light shining between the stone and the chisel to determine the best angle and then lock the ramp down with an additional clamp. i routed the back and the end of the ramp to enable the stone to be very close to the ramp.. then- fire it up- spray the wheel with some grease or oil and lighty grind the edge. (with water handy)
seems ok so far but i am wondering a few things..

a. is this totally retarded? no really- be honest
b. should i be using a finer wheel
c. how can i fine tune the edge after this
d. pointers?
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-06-2009, 05:34 PM
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Hey, as long as you can get a consistant angle without burning or overheating you are ahead of the game. As for fine tuning maybe one of those small diamond sharpening plates. You might could set up a drip system to put water on the wheel during the cutting to simplify things.
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-06-2009, 05:48 PM
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It's far and away better than my system- which is me standing there and free handing it (but it works for me).

I'm with Gary, as long as you get a consistant angle.

As far as fine tuning, I use the red dimond plate and call it good. Alot of people will tell you that fine tuning (like a gouge for the lathe) is a waste of time because the instant it hits the wood, the edge is gone -- the jury's out for me still.

I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted paychecks.
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-06-2009, 06:38 PM
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That will give you a hollow ground edge that still needs to be honed. Don`t forget to lapp the back side...

Never... I mean always... never mind Rick
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-06-2009, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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hmm, ok. i guess i am headed in the right direction anyway.

while i have your attention, any advice on getting the spur center out of a jet 1236?
i think i may have over tightened the piece a little and now i cant get the spur center back out. i have tried taking the handwheel off the headstock and tapping the back of the center throught the hollow but no dice.

i wanted to get some advice before i really start to whack on it. i am concerned about damaging the bearings.. any help GREATLY appreciated.
not sure what i would do without this site .. lol
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-06-2009, 09:20 PM
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If you have to hit it with more force then get a heavier hammer, think small sledge, to tap with.The weight creates more push on impact and will help reduce damage from hitting it. Banging endlessly with a lightweight hammer will really muck things up.
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-07-2009, 03:46 AM
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If your goal is for lathe turning tools, then your platform is not wide enough between the two side panels. How can you sharpen the skew?
If you use the platform alone, you may need to swing your tool (such as side grind bowl gouge).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m8-8MNhpvY
You will have to modify your design to move back the pivot point and round off the top of the two vertical members.

This is a popular design that works.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...opBuiltJig.pdf
It is what our club grinder has been using. This is a home made version of the Oneway Wolverine.

http://www.oneway.ca/multi-media/wolverine_videos.htm
The gray wheel that you have is hard and durable but not ideal for turning tools. The steel shaving embedded into the wheel is likely to glaze and overheat. You will need to dress the wheel very often.
It is better to use Aluminum Oxide wheel that is friable; the wheel will constantly break down, exposing sharp surface to continue grinding. Softer wheel will run cooler but will wear out faster. The best is "J" or "K" hardness. I like "K" better because it holds up better.

Does the out board side of your headstock spindle has male or female threads? If it has male threads, then you may be able to drill a center hole in the handwheel for the knock out bar to pass through without removing the handwheel.
Inspect and clean the mating Morse Taper. If both are in good shape, a hard tap with the knock out bar should remove it.
Or you can screw on a 1" X 8 tpi nut on the spindle before you put on the spur center with wider shoulder. You can back off the nut to force the spur center out.

Last edited by Gordon Seto; 05-07-2009 at 03:51 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-08-2009, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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good cl on the nut to loosen the spur center. i can beleieve i didnt think of that- seems so obvious. the platform so far is wide enough to handle the skew angle and maybe im wrong but rolling the gouge in line with the stone maintains the angle..
i am heading down to rockler tomorrow to grab some stuff and im going to take a look at the grinding wheels as i agree, the wheel im using seems a little rough.
any experience with the harder felt wheels for honing? im using a spiral sewn right now and im afraid it is "wrapping" around the edge limiting its effectiveness...
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