Where to Buy "DRY" Wood - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-15-2011, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Where to Buy "DRY" Wood

I seen to always get wet wood.Where do you buy from?And is it dry?I am looking for 6" to 8" wide 2"to 3" thick.As you can tell I just started.Mack
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-15-2011, 08:17 PM
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First off, I beleive your new so welcome! I'm relatively new myself.

What type of wood have you bought and where from? What is the intended end product?

May seem silly, but we'll be able to better help you with that information as a baseline...
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-15-2011, 10:24 PM
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"Dry" is a relative term.
Do you have a moisture meter to measure it before you buy?
How/where do you store it after buying it.
What is the MC of the 'wet' wood you have been getting.
Wood is hygroscopic so changes moisture content with the relativity.
Dry once doesn't mean always dry.
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-16-2011, 01:05 AM
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I get a lot of "dry" turning wood from a local furniture shop that makes large, natural edge conference and dining tables and the like. It is their ends/edges, but for about $40 I usually get 2-3 full trashcans of a mix of species. They save me stuff with interesting grain or rarer species. Otherwise they put smaller pieces out in "free for firewood" bin. This is usually put out as Might want to look around for something like that near you.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-16-2011, 09:41 AM
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Am not sure any woodturning vendor can or will guarantee the wood you buy from them is completely dry. Moisture content of wood will change with location and relative humidity. Wood will lose and gain moisture based upon relative humidity. Running a turning blank through a kiln cycle will not change woods ability to lose and gain moisture.

Average annual relative humidity for my area runs about 85% AM and 57% PM. Googled and found those percentages on a chart for Wilmington NC. Bowls or platters turned more than ¼” with moisture content of 20%+ will go oval or crack on me. I rough turn and wait several months to years before final turning. I harvest my own wood. I do not have a moisture meter or scale to weigh wood, drying time and experience tells me when time to final turn.

If the blanks you buy completely covered or end sealed in wax, you are buying green/undried wood. Either rough turn and set aside or let blanks air dry for couple of months. If wood is completely sealed in wax scrape sides of blank so moisture can escape, leave ends sealed.

Only way around that is buy dimensional lumber cut and glue up blanks to turn. Even then, want to let wood get accustom to shop area for couple of weeks.
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-16-2011, 12:16 PM
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Dry wood in any thickness is really hard to find. I either glue up wood to get the thickness I need or turn green wood. You can either rough turn the wood leaving it thick and let it dry and then re-turn it later, or you can turn it thin right there and let it dry and warp on it's own.
Drying your wood and bowls has a definite learning curve.
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-16-2011, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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First off I have bought from WoodCraft in Greenville S.C.I use walnut,birds eye maple,ambrosia,red oak,sycamore.I use 2" to 4" thick by6" and 8" wide.When I buy and get home and scrap the wax off,my meter will sometimes go out the end.Most time 26-28-32.I try to buy wood that does not have the wax,but you are limited as to what to get.Hope this helps;Mack
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-17-2011, 09:06 AM
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You might check out this web site for other wood vendors.

http://www.woodfinder.com

Just add your zip code and what wood you are looking for.
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