Vibration Headache - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 12-13-2011, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys. I just want to clarify what I mean by the vibration I am having. This is not the kind of vibration you get when you have a out of balance bowl blank on the chuck. This vibration is much more subtle. So minimized it can only be felt and heard while turning around the tail stock side. Might have to wait till after christmas to have it looked at. Till then...I have to make the best of it.

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post #22 of 26 Old 12-14-2011, 10:09 AM
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On wood lathes vibration/resonance can occur at different frequencies or miss-matched or worn parts. Sometimes can reduce speed or take lighter cuts to reduce or eliminate problem.

No one can tell tailstock a problem from what you have posted. Not saying you do not have a bad tailstock, but would like to rule it in or out with simple test.

Do you get vibration turn wooding between centers? Use a piece of wood, and spur center, live center that came with your lathe. (fig. 5 in owner manual) I would use both small and large tool rest and different lengths of wood. Run through speed range while turning.

Goal here is to pinpoint where vibration/resonance coming from. (speed, depth of cut, cheap aftermarket parts, or worn parts)

Next use 60- degree live center you bought to make pens.

Mandrels another consumable piece of turning gear. Once bent replace!
The amount of pressure applied should be just enough to stabilize the mandrel shaft and minimize vibration from the turning activity. Too much pressure
bends the shaft or causes vibration.

Many turners stopped using mandrels and use dead and live centers.

Inexpensive 60- degree live centers sold to pen turners notorious for problems.
A crooked live center point will also cause the mandrel to operate eccentrically and cause vibration. Check for wear spots or distortion in dimple at end of mandrel shaft.
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post #23 of 26 Old 12-16-2011, 06:58 PM
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I didn't read all of the posts, but you should check to see if the point of the live center is bottoming out in the mandrel.
This will cause problems as mine made that high pitched shrieking sound.
If it is hitting bottom you need to redrill the end with a center drill.

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post #24 of 26 Old 12-21-2011, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Hey wildwood,

I know it has been a couple days since this post but you said that some pen turners have stopped using mandrels? How are the putting individual blanks on the lathe between centers? And what about the bushings? Sorry I am not familiar. I like your approach to testing the tail stock. Still finishing up Christmas presents at so I will go at it after the holiday. Woodcraft also wants to see the tailstock before I go the manufacturer. That's where I bought the lathe. Hope it is an easy fix.


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post #25 of 26 Old 12-21-2011, 05:08 PM
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Called turning between centers use a dead center in headstock and live center in tailstock, insert bushing into blank and bring tailstock and turn. I have the HSS dead center wish had gotten carbide-tipped one.

Can only turn one pen blank at a time, but eliminates problems with mandrels. I have never turned Slimline, between centers normally use bushing that come with kits. Those bushing not real good because they don't go into tubes. (see link below for bushings) Have turned more than few Cigar blanks one at a time with no problems. Kit bushing must fit into pen blank only drawback so I buy kits that bushing go into pen blanks.

Many folks buy bushing and dead centers from Johnny CNC. Can check out turning between centers video there too.
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post #26 of 26 Old 01-03-2012, 03:09 PM
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is the live center sitting in the tail stock correctly? have you cleaned both the center and the inside of where it sits? is the tip / point of the center worn out or rounded from the pen mandrel? i use the center witht he hole in it that the mandrel goes into, much nicer than ruining my tailstock live ends.
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