I will watch this thread with interest. There are lots of different ways to sharpen and maintain your turning tools.
-> Regardless of which method(s) you choose, it is my opinion that the real "trick" to sharpening turning tools is being able to set bevel angles perfectly and consistently each time. It is that consistency that makes re-sharpening go quickly and easily, and encourages quick "touch-ups" when your tools get dull, so you can get back to turning without pause. There is nothing like the pleasure of using sharp tools, and they can get dull quickly, especially if you are a beginner, so easy, quick resharpening helps a lot.
If you are inconsistent with the bevel angles, then you will find yourself with a lot of micro-bevels and other issues, or you find yourself having to grind a fresh, new bevel all too often.
I have a Grizzly wet grinder with Tormek jigs. I wanted a real Tormek, but tried to save money. I used to recommend this setup, but now I am re-thinking my choices. I will live with them, but you don't have to. I chose the wet grinder because I thought it would protect my tools from heat damage during sharpening. They do that, but they are also slow and it is very challenging to set the bevels consistently, despite using the Tormek TTS-100 "Turning Tool Setter." I have to grind new bevels more often than I like, and the cool, wet grinder takes its time. (Note: The Tormek thin leather wheels do not fit the Grizzly.)
Here is what I have, but I would try something different if I were starting over:
I have what comes in this set, but I bought them individually:
At the recommendation of a friend, I use this for sharpening my roughing gouge:
For flattening the stone:
I have seen experienced woodworkers hand sharpen their tools on a low speed grinder with a CBN wheel. They just walk up to the grinder with the tool, eyeball the angle, and do it. That is way beyond my level of experience.
A couple weeks ago I saw a simple turning setter that consisted of a wood block drilled to a precise depth. Put the turning tool in the hole, and bring the jig to the top of the block. Done. My only concern is the consistency of bottoming out the tool with its sharp edge. I might put some type of hard plastic washer in the bottom to provide a non-dulling, hard surface for consistency. (I did not have good luck with homemade "surface" setting jigs that work like the TTS-100 - the tools cut into the wood stops in an inconsistent way.)
What would I try now if I were starting over, or recommend for others to try? Probably the Wolverine jig (plus their Vari-Grind 2) with a low speed grinder. I might replace the basic white aluminum oxide stone(s) with a CBN or diamond wheel. I have not used them, but that's what I would think about if I were starting over.
I am eager to see how others respond.