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post #1 of 13 Old 01-31-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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timberbits

Has anyone ordered from timberbits? if so hows the best way to do it? i normally like to place all my orders over the phone if possiable but with them in AUS. kinda hard to do it from work. And i just found out today that someone had access to my debit card and got almost $100 bucks out before my bank shut it down, but anyhow little bit uneasy to use my card now and just wondering how you guys order from them
Thanks in advance fellows
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-31-2012, 04:53 PM
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They are a fantastic company to deal with. Dave the owner is a real pleasure to do business with. I order all the time from them. If you have a paypal account that is the easiest way. Just order on line and check out using paypal. If you want you can email them and ask them to call you. He will be glad to set a time up. They are a secure site. You will be amazed of how fast your order gets to you. I do not know how he does it but it is faster than alot of comp. here in the USA.

John T.
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-01-2012, 01:03 PM
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Dave is an outstanding vendor to deal with.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-01-2012, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, he called me and spoke for a bit on the telly extremelly helpful and very polite.
just gonna start using a gift card of some type to make my orders from now on, i just wish i knew who i sent $100 worth of flowers too
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-22-2012, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN View Post
They are a fantastic company to deal with. Dave the owner is a real pleasure to do business with. I order all the time from them. If you have a paypal account that is the easiest way. Just order on line and check out using paypal. If you want you can email them and ask them to call you. He will be glad to set a time up. They are a secure site. You will be amazed of how fast your order gets to you. I do not know how he does it but it is faster than alot of comp. here in the USA.
I ordered 12 days ago and still not package, emailed to ask him to measure a part in the pepper mill package and he emailed back and said look at instruction, but only trouble is no dimension of the part I wanted measured, or any part. I wanted the part measured because I was making some S & P mills and realized it was going to take along time before I received the parts. I will post when my S & P mill parts finally arrive.
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-23-2012, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Willing View Post
I ordered 12 days ago and still not package, emailed to ask him to measure a part in the pepper mill package and he emailed back and said look at instruction, but only trouble is no dimension of the part I wanted measured, or any part. I wanted the part measured because I was making some S & P mills and realized it was going to take along time before I received the parts. I will post when my S & P mill parts finally arrive.

Bob

Being you used my quote, I am not sure what to tell you. Any dealings I have had over the years with him have been great. he is a member over at the IAP pen turning site and has been more than helpful and generous to the members there. People all over the country praise his ability to ship quickly. Now there is a customs thing so not sure if your order got caught up in that and that is not his fault. I can not comment on the asking for measuremnets. If you are reading something into that then that is between you 2. I will continue to use his products and endorse him when I can. Good luck with the pepermills and look forward to seeing them.

John T.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 08:09 AM
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I did receive the parts yesterday, so I guess our postal system is really slow, the order arrived in NY on the 18th and it took 5 days to get to the UP of Michigan.
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-24-2012, 05:35 PM
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I did receive the parts yesterday, so I guess our postal system is really slow, the order arrived in NY on the 18th and it took 5 days to get to the UP of Michigan.

I am not suprused, I line in NY and everything gets screwed up here!!! They probably held your stuff hostage for more tax money

I measured it once, and I cut it twice, and it's still too short......
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-13-2012, 04:04 PM
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bob how do you like those peppermills from timberbits? how do you feel they compare to the ones made in the usa?
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post #10 of 13 Old 04-13-2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by clapiana View Post
bob how do you like those peppermills from timberbits? how do you feel they compare to the ones made in the usa?
I will take some measurements but I had issues with the sizes and fit. I had planed to do a review but have not had time.
I will try to post something tomorrow after I take some measurements..
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post #11 of 13 Old 04-14-2012, 03:43 PM
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Timberbits S & P Mill Mechanisms

If you follow Mike Hawkins guide you will need to modify your approach to making a Pepper mill:

a) The shaft is made from steel so you cannot modify it after the mill is turned. You will need to be very accurate for the length.
b) The grinder has a nylon housing that centers the grinder, and the housing has a flange that needs to be modified because the flange interferes with the screws. I nipped two notches in the flange to allow the screws to be screwed in and match the grinder mechanisms cutouts. The bore diameter for the grinder mechanisms calls for 28 mm which is 1.102” which is larger than the standard 1 1/16”, but this did not make a difference with my pre-made mills.
c) The shaft drive plate is .706” and I usually counter bore this plate into the top with a .750 forstner bit.
d) The bottom counter bore calls for a 38 MM bit which is close to 1 Ĺ”, which is a modification to Mikes guide.

The salt mill which I usually followed Mikes guide will not work without the following modifications:

a) The hole diameter needs to be 1” rather than the standard 1 1/16” hole because the grinder mechanisms is smaller I found out the hard way because I pre-made three mills and when the mechanisms came I luckily had some Wood turner catalog mechanisms.
b) The shaft is aluminum so you can follow Mikes guide for this one.
c) The shaft drive plate is .791” and I usually counter bore this plate into the top with a .750 forstner bit.
d) The bottom counter bore calls for a 38 MM bit which is close to 1 Ĺ”, which is a modification to Mikes guide.

Other than the above changes the Timberbits S & P Mill mechanism should work, but you cannot use the same procedure for both. Hope this helps. You cannot beat the price which is about half. Let’s face it they are all made in the Orient just some are a little different than others and they function the same. I know with the exception of diameters (they always match Mikes guide) even Wood turners catalog you do not get the same mechanism with each order. If you need it fast go with WTC and if you can wait go with Timberbits. Make sure you down load Timberbits instructions to get the correct diameters.

Last edited by Bob Willing; 04-15-2012 at 08:39 AM.
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-16-2012, 09:07 AM
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thanks mike for the details.

did you have to modify that flange because of the screws you used or is this an oversight in the design?
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-17-2012, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by clapiana View Post
thanks mike for the details.

did you have to modify that flange because of the screws you used or is this an oversight in the design?
I used the screws that came with the mill. There is a "grinder shaft retainer ring" which has holes for the screws. When you insert the screws into the "grinder shaft retainer ring" the flange pushes the screws out of alignment. It is the design of the grinder.

It is similar to mounting a bracket on the wall. If you drill the holes for the screws and suddenly find out that you did not drill the hole aligned with the bracket the screws will not work.

So the problem with the mill design is that the flange throws the screws out of alignment.
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