are these logs Oak and what can I seal it? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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are these logs Oak and what can I seal it?

I was told these logs were oak. I'm not sure where to locally get the stuff made for sealing them so any ideas? Is it better to turn oak wet or dried? I was thinking of turning a live bowl or two so how long do i have to do this or seal the ends. They are fresh cut in past few days.

Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 04:20 PM
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sure looks like maple to me
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 05:05 PM
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They kinda remind me of some Texas pin oak. Looks scary to me Richard "Be safe". I'm stickin to spindles for a while.

"IF IT'S TOO TOUGH FOR THEM, IT'S JUST RIGHT FOR ME"
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 05:56 PM
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My first impression after seeing the reddish hue of the end grain in the first picture was honey locust. But from here, the bark does look a little like a red oak. Don't know for sure.
At any rate, I would saw lengthwise to remove the pith from both sides and then cut fresh ends and seal with canning wax. Should need less than a one pound block. Melt in an old pan on low heat (don't leave unattended) or a double boiler method if you have another old pot.
Or you could rough turn your bowls and do the paper bag thing until dry. Then do a final turn.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 06:25 PM
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looks exactly like some of the oak around here. If it has open pores on the growth rings, and "rays" coming out from the center, that's what it is. Even the color of the moss on the bark makes it look like my local oaks. I just turned some not too long ago, and it warped, but didn't crack. I turned it really green.

Can't help with sealing tho.
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 06:58 PM
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Use canning wax called Gulf Wax, wife gets it from commissary on base. Our Wal-Marts carries same brand too! Also use latex paint as an end sealer.

If going to rough turn not sure would worry about end sealing. If going to split or cut away any end checking would seal until get around to turning.

If you cover wood completely in wax, wood will not dry. Like wax as an end sealer, but sometimes will flake off as wood dries due to shrinkage. Latex paint little better because it does allow water to leave without checking. Back in 2003 and 3004 turned bunch of hurricane wood (Mimosa) from 1997 that was end seal with latex. Also had some wax end sealed blanks from about same time. No, degrade what so ever. Of course stored wood correctly.


Had problems with latex end sealed Mulberry that did not store correctly.

Your mileage may vary.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-14-2011, 07:21 PM
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guess im wrong sorry guys
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-15-2011, 06:20 AM
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Yes, it's OAK. I work with it everyday. You need to get some Anchorseal"Green wood sealer" and coat the ends only. You should turn the oak green if you can. It will cut much easier. When it dries out it will be harder to cut and dull tools much faster. If it is freshly cut it will take a long time to dry out though.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-15-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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OK agreed it's Oak and I should seal the ends with latex paint or Anchorseal. I know where to get the paint but what about the Anchorseal?

Should I split them down the middle now and leave that unsealed or leave it whole for now.

I will probably turn them while green. How long do I have before they would no loner be considered green? Also I know to turn them down but not all the way then put them in a paper bag for what a few months before the final turning?

Someone said to store them (the Logs) properly while drying. How is properly stored? I was thinking stacked in the shop.allowing space to dry. Is that correct?
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-15-2011, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
OK agreed it's Oak and I should seal the ends with latex paint or Anchorseal. I know where to get the paint but what about the Anchorseal?
Here's a link. you buy it directly from the manufacturer in 1, 2.5, or 5 gallon containers.
http://cspoutdoors.com/anchorseal.html

If you're not going to be doing this often, I still think the canning wax would be a cheaper alternative.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
Should I split them down the middle now and leave that unsealed or leave it whole for now.
I would split them down each side of the pith now. The logs I have laying around are splitting. Plus the majority of the work is done now. All you have to do later is cut your circles out for your blanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
I will probably turn them while green. How long do I have before they would no loner be considered green?
The half logs prepared as described above, will still be "green" for a year or two. The cherry logs I collected in winter of 2009 are still plenty wet inside (stored out of rain).
If your talking about rough bowls, they say they'll dry within 6 months.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
Also I know to turn them down but not all the way then put them in a paper bag for what a few months before the final turning??
They say to weigh them after a few months and look for a constant weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
Someone said to store them (the Logs) properly while drying. How is properly stored? I was thinking stacked in the shop.allowing space to dry. Is that correct?
Again 'they say' out of direct sun, wind and wind if possible.

http://cspoutdoors.com/anchorseal.html
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-15-2011, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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guess im wrong sorry guys
I've been there.
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