Spindle turning and finishing - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-28-2010, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Spindle turning and finishing

I was just wondering if any of you burnish you spindle turnings with the wood shaving after you turn the item? I have found that I can really get a great polished surface if after I sand to 600 than take what ever shaving I have from that project and hold them in my hand against the piece in the lathe while it is spinning at about 1750 rpms. I hold them aginst the bottom and apply pressure. I have found that you can also burn a ring with this method. I saw this some years ago on HGTV and had forgotten about the technique. I do this now with all of my spindle turnings. Remember you want about at least a cup and a half or so in your hand and apply moderate pressure or as much as you can stand because it will generate some heat. So don't throw away your shaving let them polish your work. I will try to post picture if anyone is interested. This is also a good method to determine if you have done a good job sanding the part.
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-28-2010, 09:30 PM
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I don't do any spindle turnings but I do sometimes burnish my bowls this way. It works really well.

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post #3 of 6 Old 09-29-2010, 04:36 AM
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I haven't done any spindles yet either (soon going to be) but I have used that technique on the pens my son and I have been turning and it does help in making that finish glow!

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post #4 of 6 Old 09-29-2010, 10:03 AM
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I do lots of spindles. I learned the burnishing technique many years ago. I quit using it. I don't know what grit it actually is. If you manage to get some harder wood shavings mixed in you get lines. If you have any tool marks left it does not get rid of them it only polishes them.
If you are going to paint or stain the wood the burnishing can cause problems. You may get uneven light reflection from some areas.
Sandpaper on the other hand works great. You know exactly what grit you have and can continue through the grits stopping where you need to a certain purpose. You get the same light reflecting off the piece at all angles. If your staining work you can sand the end grain areas with finer grit to make the stain penetrate more evenly. Sanding is just a better way to go in my opinion.
Buy good sandpaper. The NOrton 3X is great. Good sandpaper makes all the sanding go easier and quicker.
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-29-2010, 10:28 PM
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Bob,
I do like John says, sandpaper my way through the grits. I do take a white tube sock and burnish is slightly with that just before applying lacqer or whatever finish I am using at the time.
Mike Hawkins
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-30-2010, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john lucas View Post
I do lots of spindles. I learned the burnishing technique many years ago. I quit using it. I don't know what grit it actually is. If you manage to get some harder wood shavings mixed in you get lines. If you have any tool marks left it does not get rid of them it only polishes them.
If you are going to paint or stain the wood the burnishing can cause problems. You may get uneven light reflection from some areas.
Sandpaper on the other hand works great. You know exactly what grit you have and can continue through the grits stopping where you need to a certain purpose. You get the same light reflecting off the piece at all angles. If your staining work you can sand the end grain areas with finer grit to make the stain penetrate more evenly. Sanding is just a better way to go in my opinion.
Buy good sandpaper. The NOrton 3X is great. Good sandpaper makes all the sanding go easier and quicker.

As I said in my original post. "This is also a good method to determine if you have done a good job sanding the part." I also use good sand paper starting with 150 thru 600 grit. Yes sand paper works great but the burnishing highlites the questionable areas and than you need to back and start over.
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