Small Walnut Bowl - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-26-2012, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Small Walnut Bowl

Here is a small walnut bowl. The pics. aren't the best. I believe I should have sanded it more. What type of finish would be the best for this type of bow? I used EEE ultra shine then shellawax creme.
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-26-2012, 11:28 PM
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See my answer to "Finishing bottle stoppers" thread.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-27-2012, 01:06 PM
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Nice looking bowl. It is just my taste but with items which have worm holes, knots, natural edge, etc I finish in a low luster such as danish oil or shellac burnished back with 4-0 steel wool.

I believe you mentioned in a post several weeks back about mineral oil on an item for a friend at church. It may have been someone else that made that post and I saw it late. Mineral oil is really a non-drying oil. Very good for cutting boards, salad bowls, etc but will take a long long long time to dry for a normal use item. For fast drying I use shellac, can be burnished back to a dull sheen or polished to a high luster.

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post #4 of 8 Old 01-27-2012, 01:13 PM
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nice bowl
i like the style
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-27-2012, 02:41 PM
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Nice bowl love the natural look and defects gives it nice caritor
Sorry canny spell Beautiful Job

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post #6 of 8 Old 01-27-2012, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I was the one who posted about using mineral oil. I have some bulls eye shellac, I bought it a week or so ago and haven't used it yet. I might go over it again sanding and then use shellac.

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post #7 of 8 Old 01-27-2012, 05:10 PM
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May I ask a related question about this finish? Can you tell me how durable of a finish this would be? I am referring to the suggestion above about shellac burnished back with 0000 steel wool. Would it be reasonable to do something like this on furniture where a matte/egshell finish is desired? Looking to try to stay away from a film finish as they look too plastic for the look I am trying to acheive.

Thanks guys.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-28-2012, 12:11 PM
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Tom,
You may get betters answers/descriptions in the “finishing” area of the forums but I have used steel wool in flat work. That is where I learned it. Almost all of the finishes that come in gloss, flat, etc have silica added to the product depending on the finish required; the higher the silica content the lower the gloss. So if you use flat you have a greater build up of the silica which diffracts the light. Some use a flat finish just for the top coat with undercoats clear. By using a high gloss and then cutting it back you can get the flat finish leaving the product free of silica. Use oil (to reduce friction) and a very light touch with the grain then wipe off. You can flatten poly the same way, make sure any finish is completely dry for flat work.
Use a high quality steel wood for uniform scratches. You are not changing the finish it is just as durable, you are just adding fine scratches to diffuse light. Frank Klausz made a very good video (1980’s) on finishing with one section on “finishing the finish” where he takes the same finish and takes it up to a piano type finish and down to a low luster.

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