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post #1 of 11 Old 08-10-2010, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Skew

Ive been trying to get a little used to the skew.Long part of the point Up or Down??

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 04:39 AM
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The long point is at the top. It takes some time getting used to.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 06:47 AM
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I'm no expert by any means Gary, but I'm hoping that someone will correct me on this if I'm wrong. I have always thought that if you are using the skew from left to right, then the long poing is at the top left. If you are using the skew from the right to the left, then the long point is at the top right. Am I right on this fellas?

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post #4 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 08:47 AM
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Like many things….it all depends.
Typically, for planing cuts or rolling beads the long point would be up and the cut made in the lower ˝ of the blade down to the short point.
However, for the V cut the long point is down so that you can see what you are doing.
I heartily suggest Alan Lacer’s DVD "The Skew, The Dark Side & The Sweet Side".
He shows and explains not only how to use it but also very clearly what happens when you use it wrong (catches, skates, spirals).
Kenbo, either way you describe, the long point is at the top so you are correct.
I’m no expert either but I try to be a good student.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 08:50 AM
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I just use the skew as a scraper, I lay it flat on the tool rest. When it is really sharp it cut great (but only stays sharp for about a minute) I also will then use the point to mark areas that will be beads.

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post #6 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 09:57 AM
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Try this link http://www.ehow.com/video_4946720_wo...ew-chisel.html I found it on google with a search "using a skew chisel." He has several instructions so keep trying each one until you have got what you want and it depends on what you are doing as to where and how you hold the skew. I wartch these videos and others many times and still screw up. Have fun!!!

Last edited by Bob Willing; 08-11-2010 at 10:00 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 10:12 AM
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There's a ton of You Tube videos

Here's a link to one, but if you search "skew chisel" there you will find more. Don't forget.... when this one finishes others appears below and you can look there for more. Notice this skew has been rounded on the bottom, point is up, to allow for smoother travel along the tool rest.


Here's one that shows the gouge and the skew:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-11-2010 at 10:20 AM.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 10:26 AM
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Into turning large bowls?

Check this one out. This fellow is quite comfortable around that big lathe and has obviously done this many times: bill


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 11:35 AM
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You can use the skew either way. What you do have to do is stay on the lower half of the cutting edge. If you get above the lower half it will try to pull the skew into the work and you get a catch.
Most turners plane and turn beads with the long point up. It doesn't matter whether you are going left to right or right to left. I will sometimes finish off a bead using the long point. This is similar to making a V cut.
I use the long point down to finish off the bottom of goblets or cleaning up the end of spindles. I also use it to undercut the bottom detail on finials so that they will fit the curved shape of things like Christmas ornaments or box tops.
Turning square sided beads is probably the hardest thing to do with a skew. Start off practicing by cutting sort of Barrel shapes onto a spindle. Make a series of V cuts about an inch or so apart and then connect them with the barrel shape. Then progress to a more egg shape, then ball shapes. Finally you can do the more rounded beads.

The guy in the last bowl turning video is working way too hard. He's just scraping. If he would lower the handle and rub the bevel on the nose he could shape that bowl in about 3 passes instead of wearing himself out doing that cut.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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The advice and video's are great.I keep forgeting to rub the bevel on the tools but I still get good cuts.Ive made a maybe six bowls and a half dozen candlestick holders and have freehanded the sharpening.I think Ill make my own sharpening jig for the grinder.Im wondering if its worth the effort or I should just go ahead and buy one!Thanks for the help'Itchy

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-11-2010, 05:03 PM
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I've made two and now own the Oneway sharpening system. My homemade ones worked. They just don't work as easily. I'm a fan of the sharpening jigs. I learned to sharpen without them and still do on several tools. The jigs however are accurate enough that you remove almost no metal when getting back to a sharp edge.
There are lots of cuts you do without rubbing the bevel but most cuts can be done much more accurately and with better control if you rub the bevel.
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