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post #1 of 10 Old 06-13-2010, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Sharpening your cutting tools

I saw a video of a homemade lathe cutting tool sharpening jig that kept the tool at a constant 35 degrees so when your sharpening your gouges it holds it at that angle consistently.It was fast and that kept the tool from losing the temper from overheating.Pretty slick.It was on utube.Itchy
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-13-2010, 05:50 PM
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Any chance you can share the link?

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post #3 of 10 Old 06-13-2010, 08:59 PM
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I'd like to see the link also. I doubt it would be usuable to me. My tools are sharpened anywhere from 35 degrees to 80 degrees depending on the tool and what I'm using it for.
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-13-2010, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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The jig is made to adjust to any degrees.Damned if I can find it again.I just type in utube,then when I got there I typed in woodturning.Itchy

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post #5 of 10 Old 06-14-2010, 02:01 AM
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This Youtube clip is what I used as the pattern for making my jig. I'll see if this stupid camera of mine work's and snap a couple of photos. The jig works good.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-14-2010, 07:42 AM
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Well that's more or less a copy of the Oneway jig system. http://www.oneway.ca/ Many people have made them out of wood and metal. My first one was wood but I used dado slots in the bottom platform. My second one was made out of square tubing like the Oneway but I still used dado's in the wooden platform.
I also built my own modifications of the Wolverine jig that Oneway sells to sharpen bowl gouges. Mine eventually evolved into a sort of David Ellsworth jig.
I now have the Oneway system. It simply works better. The Wolverine jig is adjustable so on the rare occasion that I need to adjust the bottom bar angle I can. I drilled a hole through the backing plate and adjustable arm at the most common angle so I can easily exactly repeat that angle.
I don't like that skew sharpening attachment. I made one that sits on the platform and slides back and forth. It has a V block glued to it that has the angles for the skew. I find it easier to use.
I have also made jigs that go from the V arm to the wheel so that this distance is always correct for different tools. This also compensates for wheel wear. They just sit in the V arm and touch the wheel at 2 points. This is accurate and very quick.
I use the Wolverine jig to sharpen both my bowl gouges, spindle gouge, and detail gouges. I made different size blocks to sit in the V arm to change the angle of the grind for the spindle and detail gouge. I set the arm to the bowl gouge setting and then put one of these blocks in for the detail gouges. This way once the arm is set and locked it doesn't change position for most of my sharpening needs.
If you want a really good system check out the one made by Don Geiger. www.geigersolutions.com It's also important to have wheels that run true. Don sells the best wheel truing jig on the market.
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-14-2010, 07:46 AM
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Link takes you to an accounting company.
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-14-2010, 08:58 AM
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TRy this one

http://www.dongeiger.com/
Woodturning by Don Geiger
Tools: http://www.dongeiger.com/tools.html
bill
Also of interest?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-14-2010 at 09:03 AM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-14-2010, 02:53 PM
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I'm starting to think that using the same grinder / wheel on my turning tools that I use on my lawnmower blades is not a great idea.
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-15-2010, 09:49 AM
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You are correct. I sharpened for quite a few years with the same gray stone I use for lawn mowers and everything else. Then I tried sanding discs and eventually went to a better grinder with the White wheels.
The gray wheels can overheat a tool really fast. Not much of a problem with HSS tools but if you use the older carbon tools you can take the temper out of the tool.
The white wheels are what they call Friable wheels. The abrasive actually breaks down and leaves sharper edges so they cut cooler.
The best thing you can do is to true up the wheel so it runs true. When a tool is bouncing on a wheel it's hard to control. A wheel that runs true will give you much more control. Oneway sells a good system as well as Don Geiger. They are both expensive but work exceptionally well.
You can get buy with a T diamond Wheel dresser from Woodcraft for about $16. Place this on a good solid tool rest and light touch the wheel grinding off the high points. This works but doesn't leave nearly as true a surface as the other 2.
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