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post #1 of 6 Old 11-06-2011, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Screw Chuck

I just got a self centering chuck form PSI not the most expensive of the bunch it's thier utiliy model it works ok but iIam running into afew qestions that I could use help on. First and formost is that the center screw isn't holding the way I should I had a bold come of and some tops as well. it's 1/2" dia. aand Iam using a 7/16 and 23/64 and what is happening is that threads being made by the center screw are creacinh or braeking awaythemselfs are. Any help on what you use for drill bitwould be appeciated
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-06-2011, 06:44 AM
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Sounds like your wood is too soft. You have to drill smaller starter holes for soft woods. The if it's still a problem screw the bowl on, then pull it off and soak the threads on the wood with thin CA glue. let it dry and put the wood back on. That should help.
Personallly I never use a screw center. I start all my bowl between centers. If you insist on this try bringing the tailstock up and using it as long as you can while roughing the outside.
When you start a bowl with the screw center your stuck with that center. If you start it between centers and decide the grain or some defect of point of interest in the wood would look better if you moved the center of the bowl you can. I have often gotten rid of defects or changed the way the grain would be centered by moving the centers and making the bowl a little smaller.
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-06-2011, 11:41 AM
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I have only used my screw chuck a few times and that was just to do it.
The wood must be screwed on tight with a good tight fit between the top of the chuck jaws and the wood. All video’s that I have seen they lock the spindle and basically use their weight to set the chuck tight. If it is loose at all the screw can move (wobble) inside the wood. When I did use mine I used a large forstner bit (3”+) to insure the area for the top of the 2” jaws were completely flat. As John said, use the tailstock for support as long as possible.
I don’t know your orientation for the bowl but I assume the tops were end grain. I think the wood screws are usually with side grain orientation. If you want to use your chuck with the tops it seems to me it would be easier to turn a tenon for the jaws.
On smaller bowls (8” & <) I use a drive center. For larger I use a faceplate (I also use the large forstner bit to make a flat area for the faceplate to seat against). As I get more comfortable that I will not get a catch and orbit the item I will probably increase the size I feel comfortable using a drive spur with. I agree with John that you do have more adjustment options with a drive spur. Even with a faceplate I keep the tailstock engaged as long as possible.

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post #4 of 6 Old 11-06-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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End Grain

The times that this is stripping out on me is when I an working with white oak that came off pallets it is extremely hard and has been outdoors drying for some time. I am making tops and want to use pieces about 3' by 6" blanks that have been tunned and ready to make tops out of it. I would think that the piece is short enough that it shouldn't be a problem staying put.
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-06-2011, 06:00 PM
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Have One Way chuck and use the woodworm screw (screw chuck) a lot. Found if drill hole shallow it takes some effort to screw blank on. Have a bunch of wood spacers various thickness that use on uneven surfaces when using the screw too. If drill hole deep especially in wet blank screws on easy and will spin if do not have pressure from tailstock. .

I prefer to start a bowl between centers, just because it is easier. Hardly ever use my chuck for spindle turning except for skinny spindles. Use my second chuck with spigot or #1 jaws for skinny stuff.
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-06-2011, 09:07 PM
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My only suggestion would be to chuck it between centers and turn a tenon to fit your chuck jaws. You will still need to keep tailstock support. With my chuck and the 45mm spigot jaws it states a working length up to six inches for unsupported work(and that is with one inch or wood buried in the jaws). There are a lot of forces at work even six inches out.
Hopefully you could turn the basic shape with the pointed end down to maybe 1/8” diameter. Then shape the large end down then to 1/4, 3/8 or your preferred diameter. Carefully finish off the point, then saw off the other end and sand the nub.

Good luck with them.

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