removing the pith - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-23-2011, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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removing the pith

is it nessary even when wood is dry to remove the pith?
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-23-2011, 04:51 PM
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if the wood is dry and crack free it shouldnt be a problem
you can sometimes get away with it in wet wood but it risky, it usually splits.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-23-2011, 05:40 PM
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I do not always remove the pith, lot has to do with diameter of log and number of logs working with. If a log is easy to split with axe or maul, just seal ends, stack and store. Something like large diameter gum will use chain saw cutting away pith. I have a little jig lay log on side and make two cuts each side of pith carefull not to cut all the through. Turn on end and complete cuts.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-23-2011, 06:17 PM
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Depends on what use the wood is going to get and what wood it is. I once deliberately left in some staghorn sumac pith on a segmented bowl and wasn't too happy w/ the results, but that wood has VERY punky pith.

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post #5 of 12 Old 03-24-2011, 09:45 AM
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If the wood is dry then the pith has either already checked or most likely won't. If the wood is not dry leaving the pith in is usually going to end badly. Not always. I think most of us turned things with the pith in when first starting and got away with it on occasion. Turning thin helps.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-24-2011, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for your answers guys
i thought it would be ok after wood was dry but im thinking ill not chance it
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-24-2011, 05:46 PM
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I picked up some Sycamore and dogwood from a local park last night. Two Sycamore logs on bottom left cut in half and whacked them with my mall, end sealed with wax and put them in my woodshed. Cut up rest of the Sycamore and Dog Wood for spindles and end grain bowls. Also end sealed them with wax.

When get around to Sycamore bowl blanks will either cut or turn away pith.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-24-2011, 11:33 PM
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not to highjack....but ...
@ wildwood do i see a piece of crape myrtle too? good for turning? there are a couple over grown c.m.'s ive been curious about.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-25-2011, 04:29 PM
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You are correct about Crape Myrtle!

This is what wood looks like without bark. Never turned Crape Myrtle before so looking to see what can do with after it hangs out for awhile.
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-25-2011, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxonquad View Post
not to highjack....but ...
@ wildwood do i see a piece of crape myrtle too?
Just curious, which one?

Also, they seem pretty small for turning. I know you said you'll be doing some spindles, but you'll have to leave the pith in?
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-26-2011, 08:05 AM
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All am trying to do is slow down drying process with least amount of effort and cost. If log a certain diameter cut and seal ends and not worry about the pith. Over certain diameter cut little long, split and seal ends. I use either wax or latex paint to seal end of logs whether split or not. On big diameter log will seal with latex paint after splitting, too messy to sealing with wax. If dealing with pick-up truckload or more of wood will use latex paint to end seal.

After asked about Crape Myrtle went to the wood scrap cut offs and turned off the bark piece of Crape Myrtle to get a look at wood. This is a piece of Crape Myrtle cut and sealed with wax at bottom of Crape Myrtle tree in my yard.
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-26-2011, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djg View Post
Just curious, which one?

Also, they seem pretty small for turning. I know you said you'll be doing some spindles, but you'll have to leave the pith in?
its ok to leave the pith in a spindle type turn
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