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post #1 of 25 Old 07-20-2010, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Question for the experts

I have recently turned a pen out of Fancy Babinga and am stressing over the finishing process. I didn't care for the BLO/CA much and have sanded that off. Used the Wax and Feed and really like the result but I have been informed that it won't last.

So I was wondering...Has anyone used the finish utilized by Barry Gross? He applies something called "EEE Cream" with cheesecloth and then "Woodturner's Finish with a paper towel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 25 Old 07-20-2010, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Has anyone used the finish utilized by Barry Gross? He applies something called "EEE Cream" with cheesecloth and then "Woodturner's Finish with a paper towel.
I have that same book -- also interested in what people here have to say about his finish.

Quote:
I didn't care for the BLO/CA much
In what way was it unsatisfactory?

The only finishes I've tried are the HUT "friction melt" wax finishes -- tried both the satin finish and the shiny one. Neither one makes me go but of the two I prefer the high-gloss (light cream stick).

I have no idea how durable the HUT finishes are.

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post #3 of 25 Old 07-20-2010, 05:15 PM
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TT,
I use lacqer for most of my lathe projects. I use my old tube socks to apply it. Rub it on and it dries in less than a minute. Put on four or five coats. You can get it in different sheens. After I do that, I buff the project on a beale buffing system. Three different wheels with two different compounds and the final being carnuba wax. They come out smooth as glass, shiny and a durable finish.
Mike Hawkins
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post #4 of 25 Old 07-20-2010, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Duncan asked, "in what way was the BLO/CA unsatisfactory"?

In part, just personal preference. Looks kind of like plastic and at the time I hadn't sanded out every single imperfection...thought I had. Of course, every sand mark jumped out, screaming..."Here I am".

It is sanded like glass now, but again...I just prefer the look of the wax; more of a natural gloss finish. Does that make sense?
Just need it to last.

Firehawkmph, I just found this online and the reviews are great.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LBUFFSYS.html
One even said that they own the Beale and thought this one to be as good...but cheaper. What are your thoughts?

Last edited by Mrs. Texas Timbers; 07-20-2010 at 05:34 PM.
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post #5 of 25 Old 07-20-2010, 06:44 PM
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MrsTT ... makes sense to me -- thanks for explaining the differences in finish.

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post #6 of 25 Old 07-21-2010, 12:19 AM
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I use a finish close to what Mike uses. I start with lacquer and then use the huts hi gloss wax. I have found that the two together works better than just using the wax.

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post #7 of 25 Old 07-21-2010, 06:15 AM
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i use canuba wax its a turpentine based wax sets hard and easy to buff on the lathe

Old wood workers never die thay just get dry rot
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post #8 of 25 Old 07-21-2010, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
So I was wondering...Has anyone used the finish utilized by Barry Gross? He applies something called "EEE Cream" with cheesecloth
and then "Woodturner's Finish with a paper towel.
"EEE Cream" is a polishing cream similar to tripoli powder only better.Its made in Australia and the other is most likely a friction polish,. If so both are very easy to use and give good results.

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm

I regularly use EEE and its companion Shellawax friction polish. Just sand down to a good smooth finish say around 400 or better and apply a small amount of EEE on a rag and polish away. The further you go down the grits the higher quality shine you get.
After that apply your friction polish for a stand out shine, you can cut and polish several times with EEE and any good friction polish. But you will end up a thick gloss coat that can look a bit plastic.
Generally I use 1 application of each and it does me fine.

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post #9 of 25 Old 07-22-2010, 12:05 PM
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As hughie stated, EEE is a buffing compound with very fine grit of pumice in the mix. I apply CA glue to what I am turning ( 3 coats) then lightly sand that with 400 grit and then 800 grit. Then I use a papertowel to apply a small amount of EEE and buff with that. Then I finish the piece on the Beall using carnuba. Awesome waterproof finish
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post #10 of 25 Old 07-24-2010, 03:18 PM
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i use on my upper end pens tur-oil 2 days for finsh to cure or for a quicker finish, a mix 50/50 of french polish and crystal hut then carnuba wax buffed. good luck

Jeff,

"Just because your not bleeding, don't mean your turning safely"..
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post #11 of 25 Old 08-01-2010, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Difficulty with removing finished pen blanks from mandrel

Do any of you guys ever have a problem with removing your finished pen blanks from the Mandrel? I think I must be doing something wrong, because I can't get the last set of pen blanks off . I know I have arthritis, but this is ridiculous!
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post #12 of 25 Old 08-01-2010, 05:06 PM
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A few of the local woodies here use shellawax i think thats how its spelt any how was it easy to put on the mandrel ??.

Old wood workers never die thay just get dry rot
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post #13 of 25 Old 08-01-2010, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs. Texas Timbers View Post
Do any of you guys ever have a problem with removing your finished pen blanks from the Mandrel? I think I must be doing something wrong, because I can't get the last set of pen blanks off . I know I have arthritis, but this is ridiculous!
Rub some carnauba wax on the bushings and mandrel, should help get things to release easier. It's great for keeping CA off the bushings.
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post #14 of 25 Old 08-01-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
TT,
I use lacqer for most of my lathe projects. I use my old tube socks to apply it. Rub it on and it dries in less than a minute. Put on four or five coats. You can get it in different sheens. After I do that, I buff the project on a beale buffing system. Three different wheels with two different compounds and the final being carnuba wax. They come out smooth as glass, shiny and a durable finish.
Mike Hawkins
I like the beall system, BUT when it comes to the White Diamond compound I find it is really difficult to get it out of the pours of very pourous wood such as wenge, purpleheart etc. In fact it really messes up the project I know the White Diamond is really agressive and it brings out the shine so to get rid of the white compound I go back to the first wheel than go to the carnuba. Only problem is it never really can be removed from the pours.

Last edited by Bob Willing; 08-01-2010 at 11:04 PM.
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post #15 of 25 Old 08-01-2010, 11:36 PM
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Mrs. TT, one thing you want to do is clear any glue out of the brass tube before you mount the blanks on the mandrel. If you let the blanks sit too long after you finish the blank it could cause it to stick. I always put the pens together right after I get done applying the finish.

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post #16 of 25 Old 08-02-2010, 12:16 PM
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I don't use a mandrel, but when I use CA glue as a finish I will often gt it stuck to my dead center. Since you aren't using CA as a finish I don't know what would cause it to stick....

I know what you are saying about the plastic look, but I have more people requesting a "shiny" finish. I started off with the all natural approach... but not all pens are for me... so I adapted

I also have the buffing wheel set up from PSI, I also agree with what was said about the white diamond.

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post #17 of 25 Old 08-02-2010, 08:37 PM
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If you watch the last CA glue utube video in the following post he starts out by saying he applies Johnson paste was to his bushing....http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/ca...nishing-11223/
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post #18 of 25 Old 08-03-2010, 09:09 AM
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this was three coats of canuba wax
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Old wood workers never die thay just get dry rot

Last edited by woody woodturner; 08-03-2010 at 09:14 AM.
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post #19 of 25 Old 08-04-2010, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice

I appreciate the help. Bob, the video you referred me to was great and thanks to dixon for posting it before. I had missed that.

I do occasionally use the CA, now that I know how to use it properly. I was utilizing too much of the BLO and the CA...and using no wax on the ends of the blanks. It only got stuck one time, but that's more than enough when I'd just finished one of my best pens out of Bois d'arc. I'll never forget that lesson. Mr. TT had to pry it off the mandrel ...couldn't really salvage it; wasn't worth the time it would have taken. Oh well, lesson learned. I was just happy that TT could remove it...he saved the mandrel! Woo Hoo!

Amazed with all of the different finishing ideas that you all have come up with. I'm learning what finishes work best with the different woods. Did you all learn this by trial and error or did you have a good reference source to guide you in the beginning?
I'm such a newbie .
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post #20 of 25 Old 08-04-2010, 08:49 PM
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When I started turning pens everyone said to use BLO with the CA so I did. As I went along and wasn't really happy with the results I did a little more research on CA finishing and did away with the BLO. I saw an improvement almost immediately. I have also gone to using thin CA for finishing on most woods.
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