question on endgrain? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-01-2009, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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question on endgrain?

I have been doing some turning and I was wondering what I am doing wrong. Right now I am turning a mug with layer of maple and cherry. I can turn the side grain without a problem, but when it come to the end grain it alway seems to get some tear out. I use a very sharp IMO scraper to get the finished surface, but it always seems like I have to sand forever to get rid of the tear out. Any tips for a newbie?
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-01-2009, 09:02 AM
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Tip from another newbie (me!) - buy lots of 60 grit paper and get used to sanding!
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-01-2009, 09:23 AM
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If you have a very sharp scraper and still having problems try what we call shear scraping. Tilt the scraper about 45 degrees and cut with the lower third. If you are turning into endgrain you should be cutting from the middle out. If it's a side grain piece then go from the outside in. The way to tell the difference is if the grain runs parallel to the bed (like a limb mounted between centers) then it is an endgrain turning.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-01-2009, 09:29 AM
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I'd be inclined to drill down as far as I could with as large a bit as I could.......forstner bits would be a good choice......then a small sanding disc mounted in a drill to clean up the bottom......good luck.......keep trying something always works.......
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-01-2009, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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The outside is what i was wroking on last night. I was thinking of putting some CA glue on the endgrain areas to stiffen it up and then re shear scrapping? Any thoughts?
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-01-2009, 09:58 AM
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Jeep,
Do what John says. Also, take very fine cuts. Tools have to be very sharp. You can also do the same thing with a bowl gouge, as far as a shear cut. You are just trying to introduce the tool to the wood at a 45 degree angle. Think of it as when you whittle, if you angle the pocketknife at 45 degrees as opposed to 90 degrees, you get a much smoother cut with a lot less effort. If all else fails, you still have your 80 grit. But you should be striving for a good cut and not having to use that rough of a grit to start with.
Mike Hawkins
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-05-2009, 06:02 AM
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agree with above and also you can use paste max or mineral oil on the tear out area, this will lubricate these areas.

Jeff,

"Just because your not bleeding, don't mean your turning safely"..
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-05-2009, 07:37 AM
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Personally I've always found that no matter how sharp I keep my scrapers, a sharp gouge seems to work better on end grain. Of course, there are occasions when you just can't use a gouge because of the needed angle.

Getting used to using a lot of low-grit sandpaper justs means you would be avoiding learning good turning technique. John's comment about shear scraping is right on.

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post #9 of 10 Old 04-05-2009, 06:40 PM
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For end grain turning and for working on hollow forms you can't beat the Hunter tool.
http://www.hunterwoodturningtool.com/
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-05-2009, 08:00 PM
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endgrain

Follow John's advise. The Hunter tool will also do a nice job on endgrain.
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