Plastic or Paper?????? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-29-2011, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Plastic or Paper??????

I am getting conflicting opinions on prepping my blanks for bowl turning.

Some say turn green and leave 1" of wall and put them in plastic bags.
Some say just put blanks in paper bags - no turning
Some say remove the pith - others no mention of it.
Some say seal ends with wax - others with old latex paint.

Help.......

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post #2 of 6 Old 09-29-2011, 12:42 PM
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I only use plastic bags when I'm going to turn the green wood to completion but get interrupted (so it's going to sit on the lathe for an hour or more.)

When I rough turn I aim to get the wall thickness about 10% of bowl diameter, and put into brown paper grocery bags with a good fistful of shavings.

Blanks and half-logs I paint all cut wood with Anchorseal, but don't put in bags. Sometimes I come back a day later and put a second coat of Anchorseal on the end grain.

I haven't been doing this long enough to know how well it works, so don't take my word for it ...

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Last edited by duncsuss; 09-29-2011 at 01:11 PM. Reason: missed out the word "don't"!!!
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-29-2011, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncsuss View Post
Blanks and half-logs I paint all cut wood with Anchorseal, but put in bags.
plastic or paper????

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post #4 of 6 Old 09-29-2011, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcleve4911 View Post
plastic or paper????
I normally proofread what I'm typing ... honest ... but missed out the word don't when I posted that message ...

To answer your question, it doesn't matter whether you don't put them into plastic or don't put them into paper

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post #5 of 6 Old 09-29-2011, 01:41 PM
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Paper or plastic bags, really depends upon relative humidity in your area. If wood already has mold spores, or you forget putting in plastic bag can contribute to mold and staining growth. What time of year and how long going to store that wood another factor should consider. I do cover a piece of wet wood on the lathe with plastic bag when if taking break or will not be back until next day.

I grew up wrapping wet wood in newspaper, so switching to grocery bags not a problem. Do not always put rough turnings in a paper bag, depends upon time of year and relative humidity. Paper bag only temp storage, otherwise could get staining and mold growth happening. If lived in Arizona would definitely use plastic.

I use wax and latex paint to end seal freshly cut logs only because available locally. Have no problem with commercial end sealers.
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-29-2011, 01:41 PM
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Hi,
Yep it can be confusing…. Some of the confusion may be from different area of the country. The heat/humidity in NC is vastly different from El Paso, Tx.
So… I will try to give different answers and maybe others can agree or add their preference.
A. Wall thickness turned green. The 1” is not the key. It would be if the bowl were 10” diameter. Rule of thumb is 10% of diameter. So a bowl in the 7-8” diameter would be left ¾”.

B. Plastic Bag? I only put them in a plastic bag if I know they will only be there a couple of days (or covering on the lathe while taking a break from turning.

C. Paper Bag – No Turning? I have never heard of this, only bagged after rough turning.

D. Remove Pith? – Yes and No. When rough turning make sure you “turn the pith out of it”. For preparing blanks I typically leave in log form (5-6 ft) and seal the ends on logs about 9” diameter or less. For logs about 10-16 inches I normally cut straight through the pith. For most logs over 16” I cut about 1.5” each side of the pith yielding a piece of quartersawn wood (this would leave it 3” thick), nice for small winged bows, platters, etc. Of course this center piece is again cut in half down the pith.
I only coat the end grain or in the case of splitting it, the end grain and maybe an inch of the cut. I have never coated the full cut surface.
This may vary a lot depending on your climate and storage conditions.

E. Wax/Paint? I use Anchor Seal, a wax solution. Some people do use latex paint; I understand it will crack over time but it is cheap and do in a pinch; much better than nothing. Some people also melt wax (like canning wax) and seal them; I’m sure it works fine but I have not tried it due to potential mess. At the least, wet the ends good and put a plastic bag over them until you get the sealer of your choice (within a week).

F: Rough Out Sealing: Again can vary. I do use DNA at times but also then seal and bag. When I seal I coat the end grain. Looking at it from the top/bottom the sealer is in a figure 8. If DNA is used I only seal the outside and end grain edge. If DNA is not used I do the figure 8 inside and out. I then place in a paper bag with no shavings and seal the bag. But if you are in an area with 20% humidity I would add some shaving for at least the first week.
Some people only coat the outside; some coa the entire rough turning inside and out. What you want to do is control moisture loss, not stop it.

Even with the above I have exceptions. I have found that with some wood 8” diameter I had better cut it or it will be split within a couple of weeks. Others I may leave 16” and never have a problem

They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin
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