Penn State "Mandrel Saver" quick review - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Penn State "Mandrel Saver" quick review

In another thread, a couple of people asked about the Penn State Mandrel Saver which I've been using for over a year.

The fact that I'm still using it should indicate I'm generally satisfied with it, but it is not perfect and doesn't guarantee perfect results.

1: you have to tighten the tailstock (against the right-hand end bushing) pretty tight or the blanks will slip when you're roughing ...

2: ... but the good news is that this doesn't warp the mandrel the way over-tightening the tailstock would using a regular mandrel and live-center ...

3: ... but the bad news is that much pressure against the lathe drive shaft might be bad for the bearings ...

4: ... and although it won't warp the mandrel, it won't actually straighten a mandrel that is already bent (because you dropped it or previously bent it by over-tightening the tailstock, for example) ...

5: ... and since the mandrel saver has to slide over the end of the mandrel, there is a slight gap which means the fit isn't perfect, and besides there are bearings in it (it's a modified live center) which might have some play ...

6: ... which means there's still the possibility of some off-center turning (meaning the pen wall thickness isn't perfectly uniform around the brass tube).

Overall rating: B

Ways I think it could be improved:

1: tighter tolerances on bearings, fit of mandrel into saver

2: possibly combine a regular mandrel (with a nut to lock the blanks on the mandrel) with a "saver-center" in place of a normal live center (so you don't apply tailstock pressure on the end of the mandrel)

HTH

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post #2 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 09:18 AM
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I concur with Duncsuss. I too have been using one of these for a while and have had same issues with blanks slipping if not tight enough. I don't think I have to tighten it so tight that I'm damaging bearings in the headstock, as I'm not cranking it down.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 05:04 PM
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+1 what these guys said
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 05:31 PM
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I agree with every thing said. I only experience the slippage during roughing though. Take lighter cuts and it goes away. I avoid most of it by knocking the corners off the blanks on the belt sander before they go to the lathe. I havnt had any trouble with slippage once the blanks are round.

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 07:03 PM
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Has anyone ever used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H6GIPY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 mandrel?
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BAJA
That is the one under discussion.

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post #7 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
Has anyone ever used this mandrel?
It looks identical to the Penn State one that I reviewed -- might be made in the same factory ...

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post #8 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 08:45 PM
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OOps. I guess I should have looked a little closer.
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-16-2012, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65BAJA View Post
OOps. I guess I should have looked a little closer.
No worries!

One might think that with a different brand name it would be a different device -- but it seems there are many labels on the exact same product these days.

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post #10 of 10 Old 10-19-2012, 07:37 PM
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yes that is true there might be one product out there with severl names / brands out there its like with some car makers they will have two different maker but its the same car. I have also found that with a lathe that I have you go to one supplier and the price is ......... you go to another and the same lathe different name and it could be $100 more expensive, so the bottom line is to do some research, it's a lot easier in today's world to do your research as it was say 20 years ago "the internet".

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