Pen assembling tip - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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This might be a well know tip but it worked well for me. I had a problem that after I turn a pen the brass seem to have creeped a bit so to create a tiny tiny gap between pen parts.
Before I turn the blank I square it up with a barrel trimmer but it still happens.



I had been using the barrel trimmer after turning but that would create a sharp edge to the turned blank. Then I sat and thought about it a bit & came up with these double ended countersink bits that I picked up at Harbor Freight. Just a couple twists by hand and it knocks off the edge without taking off any of the wood.



Here's the finished pen. It's a 4" mini pocket pen from black walnut. I buffed off the gold finish from a slimline kit to make it chrome.
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Last edited by fboyles; 01-12-2013 at 12:28 PM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 12:46 PM
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I used a stepped drill tap after I use the barrel trimmer. Good tip. Thanks for sharing.
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 12:54 PM
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Just curious how your tubes are moving? Ive never had that happen or seen it before. How are you glueing them in and how long are you waiting to turn aterward? I use 5 minute epoxy and typically will give it a couple hours to set before turning but I have turned as soon as 15 minutes after glueing and never have had the tubes move.

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post #4 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Step drill bit, that's a good idea too.
I just used my step drill bit to make a pen holder for my Wife. The steps did a great job holding the pen just right.

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post #5 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster View Post
Just curious how your tubes are moving? Ive never had that happen or seen it before. How are you glueing them in and how long are you waiting to turn aterward? I use 5 minute epoxy and typically will give it a couple hours to set before turning but I have turned as soon as 15 minutes after glueing and never have had the tubes move.
I've used both 5min, 15min epoxy, as well as CA and it's happened with all. Most of the time I glue up a bunch and end up turning them a few days later.
I wondering if I'm doing wrong/different or just missing a step which would create this tiny bit of brass protrusion.
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 01:09 PM
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I don't think your tubes are creeping, I think your barrel trimmer is missing the brass and just getting wood. I've had this same thing happen and just use a file. Usually just one or two passes and that little edge of brass is gone without affecting the wood.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fboyles View Post
I've used both 5min, 15min epoxy, as well as CA and it's happened with all. Most of the time I glue up a bunch and end up turning them a few days later.
I wondering if I'm doing wrong/different or just missing a step which would create this tiny bit of brass protrusion.
Hmm, odd, the only time I have ever heard of this issue was a guy tried gorilla glue once. Its an expanding glue and will move the tubes every time.

I cut my blanks an 1/8" or so longer than needed so mine could move and I'd never even notice so I guess its possible and I just dont know it.

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post #8 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sawdustfactory View Post
I don't think your tubes are creeping, I think your barrel trimmer is missing the brass and just getting wood. I've had this same thing happen and just use a file. Usually just one or two passes and that little edge of brass is gone without affecting the wood.
I think this is the more logical explanation IF your only experiencing this with slims. I use a Whiteside barrel trimmer and thats the only one I have experience with but I assume they are all designed the same. If so, anything larger than a slim, this wouldnt be possible.

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post #9 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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As of right now the only kits I have and have turned are the slimlines. I did notice that I did have a build up of brass right where the trimmer meets the bit. I took the cutter off and filed off the build up then did my best to resharpen the trimmer. The way that I sharpened the trimmer was to take just the trimmer and put some super fine wet/dry sandpaper on a squared piece of granite and go over it with a few swipes. Does that sound correct?
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 01:38 PM
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Your not suppose to sharpen the ends or the angles portion of the trimmer. You sharpen the flats on the back side of the trimmer. I use a fine diamond card to sharpen mine. A few swipes on each flat usually has it cutting pretty good. The problem with trying to sharpen the end or the angled portion is if you dont take off the exact same amount of material on all four cutters, they wind up being differnt lengths over time. Then you may have only one or two cutters doing the work. Also because those angled portions are so small, its very difficult to keep the proper angle. By sharpening the back flat, your angle and cutter length never changes.

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Last edited by BassBlaster; 01-12-2013 at 01:41 PM.
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBlaster View Post
Your not suppose to sharpen the ends or the angles portion of the trimmer. You sharpen the flats on the back side of the trimmer. I use a fine diamond card to sharpen mine. A few swipes on each flat usually has it cutting pretty good. The problem with trying to sharpen the end or the angled portion is if you dont take off the exact same amount of material on all four cutters, they wind up being differnt lengths over time. Then you may have only one or two cutters doing the work. Also because those angled portions are so small, its very difficult to keep the proper angle. By sharpening the back flat, your angle and cutter length never changes.
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 02:43 PM
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we call those things centerdrills at work
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 03:43 PM
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Do you notice this "creep" before you turn the blanks?

Does the opposite end of the brass tube hide in the wood by the same amount the brass protrudes at one end?

If not, I have a sneaking suspicion that what we're looking at here isn't creep at all.

I think it might be too much pressure on the mandrel lock nut, the bushings will then transfer that pressure to the wood and cause it to compress. (Unless the bushings are a really snug fit on the mandrel, they could ride up over the edge of the brass tube.)

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post #14 of 17 Old 01-12-2013, 05:10 PM
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I've seen this quite often with pen mills that have a bore diameter of a quarter inch, same as the tube. The teeth of the mill doesn't go all the way in to the shaft and misses the tube. The mill I bought from Rockler and one other brand I can't remember had a much smaller diameter bore and never had this "feature".
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-13-2013, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I've seen this quite often with pen mills that have a bore diameter of a quarter inch, same as the tube. The teeth of the mill doesn't go all the way in to the shaft and misses the tube. The mill I bought from Rockler and one other brand I can't remember had a much smaller diameter bore and never had this "feature".
I think you are spot on. I check the cutter and there's a tiny gap just enough to leave a bur.
To put this idea to the test I decided to go ahead and countersink before I turn.

I guess I need to change the thread title "Pen assembling tip for a for people who use the PSI 7mm pen mandrel

After looking at a pic on PSI's web site I noticed that they were not using the compression nut with the mandrel saver. Are you suppose to use the mandrel saver with or without the compression nut?
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post #16 of 17 Old 01-13-2013, 05:04 PM
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The mandrel saver is designed so you don't need the compression nut.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #17 of 17 Old 01-13-2013, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fboyles
I think you are spot on. I check the cutter and there's a tiny gap just enough to leave a bur.
To put this idea to the test I decided to go ahead and countersink before I turn.

I guess I need to change the thread title "Pen assembling tip for a for people who use the PSI 7mm pen mandrel

After looking at a pic on PSI's web site I noticed that they were not using the compression nut with the mandrel saver. Are you suppose to use the mandrel saver with or without the compression nut?
Without

Thanks for the thread. Never had the issue myself but something to look out for now.

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