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post #1 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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ok whats the seceret???

i had posted before about starting an oak bowl i had cut right out of a log then yesterday i did the same with a piece of sourwood
both pieces cracked almost imediatly so what am i supposed to do to stop this?
i know i was told to put the nowl in a paper bag for a few weeks
but i didnt finish the sourwood bowl last night and it cracked already today
am i not supposed to turn it all the way down now?
give me some great advice for a guy that has never turned wet wood
buuuuuuuttttt boy wet wood does turn easy lol
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Secret sorry lol
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 04:05 PM
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You needed to seal the bowl to prevent it from drying unevenly - I'm still new at this, but I've been using Anchorseal. Also, how thick did you leave the walls?
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 04:59 PM
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if you leave wood on the lathe wrap it in a plastic bag. dna is the way i dry wood.
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 05:06 PM
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If lucky, make a smaller bowl, turning away those cracks. Many people will disagree with me but not much, you can do. Once a bowl blanks, starts cracking those cracks get bigger. JMHO, cracks are not art!

If leave an unfinished wet bowl, on or off the lathe for more than an hour or overnight either put a paper or plastic bag over it or put bowl inside a bag. Some folks will bag a bowl on the lathe if going to get sandwich. I have put wet shavings in the bag too!
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 05:06 PM
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You sure they are not cracking because of a bad mount? You may try to change orientation of screws on the faceplate. Hard to tell, without pics.

Harrison, at your service!
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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anchore seal gonna affect the finish of the bowl later?
i guess the plactic bag would have been a great idea
i think my pics will hopefully answer the rest of the questions
please add all to this that you can
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 06:01 PM
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way to thin and way to uneven from the pics, 10% of dia of bowl i dont go under 5/8'' rim

then you need to paper bag it seal the opening with tape cut a hole in the top then seal the rim with the tape/bag put wood chips around the bowl in the bag.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 06:06 PM
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http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2660/img8874y.jpg this is pretty much what it should look like terrible pic

i use dna to dry but its pretty much the same as air drying besides the time it takes to dry.
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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i wasnt near done with the one on the lathe
but the rim was too thin for sure?
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post #11 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 07:42 PM
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the bowl in my pic is 14x4 rim thickness for drying needs to be thick or it will just crack apart, 10% not under 5/8ths let it dry out. you should also mark where your #1 jaw is on the tenon and put it back in the same place then turn it back to round. you could also just dump ca glue with coffe grounds into all the cracks and let a dry out.
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 09:33 PM
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Was this wood cut from the trunk or a limb?

Tim
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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oak is from a limb but the sourwood is from low on the trunk of a tree
both were cut down last yr
well the black oak fell in a wind storm last yr
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 09:41 PM
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Any chance this is a bit of ring shake and not just drying cracks?
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprior View Post
Any chance this is a bit of ring shake and not just drying cracks?
lol dunno you tell me please
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post #16 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 09:45 PM
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I was just asking that because the cracks aren't completely perpendicular to the rings, but also follow them a bit. I thought that drying cracks would stay straighter.
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post #17 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 10:19 PM
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Yea, remember limbs have a lot of stress in them. Especially big ones. They're in tension on the top and compression on the bottom. You just relieved those stresses I think. For the other one, Mr. Lucas here has recommended keeping a spray bottle full of water to keep the outside from drying out too fast while you are turning it.

Tim
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post #18 of 21 Old 03-05-2011, 11:31 PM
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My opinion is that this particular piece of wood was damaged in that area. Last year the county bulldozed some trees, and I was the recipient of them all. I had a few spots just like that, where in the process of the wood falling over, there were some "strands" of the tree that instead of breaking, kind of pulled lose throughout the trunk I guess. And it created some cracks just like those.

I've also seen this scenario nearly every time I cut a tree, the wood above and below the cut line that is still attached when it's felled, does the same thing.

Any chance that could be feasible in this case? Do the oak's cracks radiate in a non-jagged line?
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post #19 of 21 Old 03-06-2011, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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the oak tree fell so i guess anything is possible
and the sourwood was cut down and i just cut a chunk near the bottom so i guess the tree stress is prolly the problem
and me turning to thin and not putting it in anything to dry
i guess we live and learn
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post #20 of 21 Old 03-06-2011, 11:48 AM
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Robert, one other thing to keep in mind is to try and remove a uniform (doesn't have to be perfect but keep it close) amount of material from the whole of the inside of the bowl. Start closer to the center and gradually expand your way out. Don't try and get your rim and then work the rest of the bowl. Hope this makes sense.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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