Non Round Geometric Turning - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Non Round Geometric Turning

This guy http://www.mikesorge.com/index.html is doing a demo at the local WoodCraft this weekend. Hes also a member of the local turning club that I recently contacted and will probably be joining. Ive been checking out his work and hes incredibly talented. I'm excited to go watch his demo. So, has anyone here ever done any of this geometric turning? If so, post some pics, I'd love to check it out.

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post #2 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 10:34 AM
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Interesting work.

I have seen a number of non-round bowls. Normally referred to as square bowls or winged bowls. This artisan has certainly raised the bar.

A couple of threads from the forum.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/4-...re-bowl-17655/

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f6/sq...uestion-24528/

I have tried a square bowl twice. Nothing as intricate as your link.

The challenge is the amount of "air". You have to watch the shadow which is at the opposite side of the item, while you carefully remove stock from the tool rest side.

You need sharp tools, light touch, and hope Murphy is not over your shoulder. Very easy to get catches, chips and tearout due to the inconsistent contact.

I hope you can post your impression of the demo.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 01:24 PM
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Nowhere near as complex as those, but I've tried 3 times and had a single success ... LINK

Enjoy the demonstration!

Please visit my website, Fruit of the Lathe
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by duncsuss View Post
Nowhere near as complex as those, but I've tried 3 times and had a single success ... LINK

Enjoy the demonstration!
Duncan, I missed seeing your square bowl. Looks good.

I am not able to keep the bark on in my few attempts at natural edge round bowls, never mind a square bark edge.

I can imagine what may have happened in the other 2 attempts.

When the bowl is stationary is does not give a hint at the potential challenges with it spinning at x00 rpm's. Push the tool just a tab too far and BANG, design change.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 02:01 PM
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Thanks Dave

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I can imagine what may have happened in the other 2 attempts.
Yes -- but did you imagine me cursing in Norwegian? It's very satisfying

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post #6 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 02:22 PM
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That looks like a fun demo. He has some nice work. I went through a phase where I turned a bunch of square and out of square winged hand mirrors. It takes practice to get the cuts right.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
The challenge is the amount of "air". You have to watch the shadow which is at the opposite side of the item, while you carefully remove stock from the tool rest side.

You need sharp tools, light touch, and hope Murphy is not over your shoulder. Very easy to get catches, chips and tearout due to the inconsistent contact.
Reading through the tips section of his site, he mentions laying a white pillowcase across the lathe bed when working with dark woods and a black pillowcase across the bed when working with light woods. He says it really helps to see the shadows.

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post #8 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Nowhere near as complex as those, but I've tried 3 times and had a single success ... LINK

Enjoy the demonstration!
Somehow I missed it as well. Very cool and I can imagine trying to save the bark makes it that much more of a challenge.

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post #9 of 9 Old 01-16-2013, 07:18 PM
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I do use the white board to help show the shape of pieces that are oblong. However you still can't see the square or diamond ends when the lathe is spinning 1500+ rpm. What I do is drag the bevel on the wood. Touch the wood toward the inner part with the bevel but push the handle in enough that your not cutting. The tip should be close to the wood. Drag it back toward the outer edge of the bowl just barely touching the wood. Listen to the ticks. When they stop you have just passed the end of the wood. At this point I put move the tool back and forth about 1/4" while very carefully moving the handle so the tool will start cutting. That way you know exactly where the invisible corner is and if you control the handle with your body you can make very fine accurate cuts which is the secret for getting clean edges and keeping the wings an even thickness.
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