Need a lathe to turn 60" length columns... any suggestions? :D - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 26 Old 08-07-2011, 01:56 AM
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Sidai ,
by the looks of things , those post are for training equipment in a dojo , so I see your point about turning them from solid log .
Thats' no problem on the average long bed lathe , and 9" is no big thing on most medium sized machines .

The chainsaw being used on the vase turning dance is safe.
With the lathe is running in reverse at that point , and with the saw running in the opposite direction , it is a safe as any woodworking tool , in the right hands .
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post #22 of 26 Old 08-07-2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidai View Post
Cabinetman - you got that right about the hand plane! Although in the old days that's the only way they could do it.
In the old days all the heavy poles (so to speak), like ship masts and booms, and poles for barn type structures, log cabins, etc, were all made from solid wood (logs), and were likely done with just hand tools.








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post #23 of 26 Old 08-07-2011, 07:34 AM
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Here's a video of Laguna's with an 8 foot extension. I don't think you'd have problems with the 2HP turning a log that size. It's more about balance and weight distribution, and torque, than HP. The Powermatic in it's high torque setting should easily turn that. I've seen a video of two 3520B's with the headstocks turn facing each other and it was used to turn a massive object. Much larger and heavier than what you are looking at.
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post #24 of 26 Old 08-07-2011, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
In the old days all the heavy poles (so to speak), like ship masts and booms, and poles for barn type structures, log cabins, etc, were all made from solid wood (logs), and were likely done with just hand tools.
The father of a colleague used to work at the shipyard -- Steve told me they had a lathe to turn masts and spars, in a very large room

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post #25 of 26 Old 08-07-2011, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Manuka,

Thanks for the advice. Solid is preferred by most people - but I think it's because they are not woodworker's, they are practitioners, and they only understand that in the old days they didn't have much choice but solid, and in Asia, there was a lot of teak, as well as other straight log hardwoods, readily available. I think a laminated piece is just as strong - in fact the first training dummy I got was made of 2x6 red oak laminated together and then lathed down, and it never cracked and was super strong. That's the only problem, as mentioned by others - checking and cracking, but if the wood is dried a decent amount, I think teak will hold up well, though I've never built one of these from teak yet.
And chainsaws next to moving objects just make me nervous lol.
Cabinetman you are for sure correct, and in fact in parts of Asia they are still making these training tools, as well as structural beams, pillars, etc., COMPLETELY by hand - from cut down to finishing - not a single power tool used, and then days and days of intricate carvings and ornamental additions. Really makes you appreciate the fortune of electricity and a good powertool!
ACP - awesome video! Thanks!
That pinnacle is pretty sweet. I'm wondering if the Powermatic has set stop points, or any of those features, or is that only common with a copy lathe?
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post #26 of 26 Old 08-07-2011, 09:40 PM
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I don't really see why the power of the lathe is such a concern. If the wood is heavy (and fairly well balanced), wouldn't the mass of the wood help keep the speed smooth once it's brought up to speed? So I'd think with am electronic variable speed lathe you'd start the lathe slow and slowly ramp it up until you got to the desired turning speed. With the Nova DVR lathe the motor only draws power to provide acceleration (to offset drag and cutting), not speed. I'd think that heavy/strong ways and very secure mounting would be the real concern.
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