Mounting my blanks - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-05-2011, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Mounting my blanks

I'm getting ready to turn some plates from 1-1/4 " rough cherry.
I will mount my 3" faceplate to the 3" discs I've made from 1/2" baltic birch.
I'll use the method of putting paper between the blank and my discs.

How to you guys create a flat, smooth spot for the disc to adhere to?
Run the whole piece through a planer?
Sand a 3"-4" section smooth with the belt sander?
Hand plane a section big enough for the disc?

Thanks for the help

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post #2 of 10 Old 03-05-2011, 07:29 PM
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i would think running them through the planer would be the way to go
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-05-2011, 09:11 PM
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I use my 12" disc sander. It does a great job of sanding both surfaces nice and flat.

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post #4 of 10 Old 03-05-2011, 09:50 PM
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One way is to mount it and turn a nice smooth surface, then flip it.

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-06-2011, 08:28 AM
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I turn my plates using a screw chuck. I shorten the screw by putting a spacer block with a hole drilled in it between the chuck face the platter. That works well for wood that is already kind of flat.
When I am using chainsawed blanks for platter I mount them between centers and flatten the tailstock side. Then I just carve away the little tenon left and either use the screw chuck or if it's too thin use the paper joint method.
sometimes I will go ahead and turn the bottom side of the platter while it's between centers and then turn a recess for the chuck jaws. If I turn the center tenon down small enough I don't even have to remove it because it will go in the center of the jaws. I usually do carve it away because at this point the bottom is just about done short of reverse turning to clean up the recess or resize the foot if necessary.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-06-2011, 11:39 AM
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I do basically as John L., turning between centers and cutting a recess for the chuck.
If you want to use a glue block you can still mount between centers and flatten on the lathe, using a steel ruler to check for flatness. Then remove the nub.
If you have a large forstner bit (4" or so) that would be the quickest but that is around $30 unless on sale.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-06-2011, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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I like the forstner bit idea and the disc sander
I've got 10 to mount and glue

One thing I find in this newfound turning hobby, is that ALL ideas will be useful at one time or another.

Every situation takes a clever way of getting an end result.

Thank you all for your ingenious ideas and helping me think outside the box.......or bowl.....or plate......

Learning more about tools everyday
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-06-2011, 12:08 PM
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It wonít help with the faceplate but if you use a screw chuck with 50mm jaws this is great for flattening the surface for the jaws.
2-7/8" for $8.95
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12325
They are sold out of most sizes.
They also have some sizes 1" to 1-15/16" for $1.95 - $3.50. One the size of your drive spur allows you seat the head a quarter-inch or so into the wood providing additional insurance the blank will not be thrown off.
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12323
No affiliation with Hartville.
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-06-2011, 04:21 PM
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TC,
I do the same thing John does. Put the blank between centers and turn a flat or recess in the back. If you do the recess, you won't need a glue up at all. With the blank between centers, you can turn the bottom side and finish if you want. Flip it over, expand your chuck into the recess and do the topside to finish. Quick and easy mounting and rechucking. If you use stebcenters, you won't leave hardly any marks in the surface.
Mike Hawkins
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-06-2011, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Hawk
My problem is, I don't have a Nova chuck.
I'm doing this with 1/2" x 3" discs mounted to a 3" faceplate

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