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post #1 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
Haiti Man
 
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Mixing finishes?

Need to know if I first sand with bee's wax and mineral oil can I finish with shellac or something similar? What can't I do after that? Thanks, Drex

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post #2 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 11:35 AM
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Try these products, I use them almost exclusively these days. You can use the walnut oil as a sanding lube and then use any of the other finishes after. http://www.doctorswoodshop.com/

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...

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post #3 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 12:14 PM
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I haven't tried putting anything over beeswax. I don't know if it would work or not.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. Got a lot to learn!!

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post #5 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 05:00 PM
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Neither mineral nor walnut oil is a drying oil and bees wax could affect final finishing if not removed entirely from surface of wood. So if end up with gummy mess one of those oils or bees wax the problem. Wiping down surface with mineral spirits removing oils and wax before applying finish not a bad idea. Just let surface air dry before applying final finish.


If want to keep down dust while sanding bare wood use water or mineral spirits. While both water and MS penetrate wood pores same as oils easier to dry/remove. Yes, water will raise grain, easy to lightly sand away.


If either mineral or walnut oil is your final finishing material no problem.


I do not use any kind of wax as a finishing material. Will use paste wax once final finish (Lacquer, Poly, Shellac, or Varnish) has cured.
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 05:19 PM
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I use just walnut oil to wet sand and it works great...no dust and the paper will not clog up. After hand sanding I wipe down the piece and use a mixture of walnut oil, shellac and paste wax.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-15-2012, 05:56 PM
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Doctor's Woodshop walnut oil and Mahoney's Walnut oil have been heat treated allowing the oils to actually harden and can be used as a stand alone finish.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-16-2012, 07:52 AM
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I have no problems with oil finishes for wood turners. Do believe lot of contrary information about natural and manmade oil finishes.

Technically Walnut oil is a drying oil, if go to other message boards will see problems with drying typical. Ernie Conover’s review pretty much on the mark. Not long after got into woodturning Walnut oil considered much better finish than mineral oil for bowls. Back then, people buying Walnut oil at grocery stores for around $3 to $4 a bottle. Same drying problem and need for reapplication.

Mineral oil (petroleum base laxative) definitely a non drying oil. If stay away from baby oil and industrial mineral oil food safe.

Mike Mahoney - Mahoney's Utility Finish Oil
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=26047

Homemade
http://www.thecanaryreport.org/2010/03/18/finishing-wood/

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/knaeb98c.pdf
Iodine number below 115 non drying, 115-130 semi and 130 or higher drying. I omitted all non drying oil from list.

SORTED BY AVERAGE IODINE VALUE
Corn Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 122.6]
Wheat Germ Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 130]
Soybean Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 130.5]
Sunflower Seed Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 132.5]
Grape Seed Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 135]
Safflower Oil, Hybrid [Avg Iodine Value = 140]
Safflower Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 145]
Borage Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 147]
Walnut Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 150]
Evening Primrose Oil [Avg Iodine Value = 152]
Cod-liver oil [Avg Iodine Value = 186]
Tung Oil 160 – 175
*Linseed Oil 165 – 204
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-16-2012, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Wow! A lot to consider! Thanks for all the comments! Good to have some experienced turners!!

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