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post #41 of 61 Old 07-23-2011, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Kaleidoscopes module 7

Kaleidoscopes module 7
We have covered the wood turning part and how I get them to the final stage for assembly. Now we need to concentrate on making the mirror assembly, object cell and installing the eyepiece lens.
Letís get the mirror out of the way first. As I mentioned earlier the best mirror type is the first surface mirror type. I have had people that have made scopes tell me that they wanted to test their cutting glass skills on regular mirror that was not so expensive. First surface mirror is expensive and I do recommend practicing on less expensive mirror glass to get the hang of it. Most big box home improvement stores have mirror tiles that are 12 inch square. I got a few when I started out and made a jig the hold the tiles steady and made a few practice runs to get the hang of it before I started cutting on the expensive stock. Get the store clerk to show you how to cut the mirrors with the stock glass tools they sell. There may be videos on Youtube that will help.

As I said earlier the three pieces of glass make a triangle. There is a base glass piece that is painted flat black the two sides are first surface mirror in a two mirror system. For three mirror systems all three pieces are mirror. My barrels are drilled 1 ľ inch in diameter. Therefore the finished mirror system must slid all the way through the barrel. The mirror systems cannot bend and flex this would at the very least force the angle to shift and ruin the final image or break the mirror. Both cases would be tragic for the scope.

So the question arises how to get the mirror to the correct size so it will slide in smoothly. All the pieces must be cut to an exact size to form a triangle that will both be the proper angle and the proper size. My most common triangle is formed to be 45 degrees where the two mirror pieces come together at the top. Making the mirror pieces and the base piece is done with a glass cutting device and they can be bought at most Hardware stores. Cut the parts to the following width and lengths. Everything is cut 8 inches long the piece of glass that I paint flat black is ĺ wide the two mirror pieces are cut 1 1/16 wide.

Now to make the triangle. I use electrician tape to make a triangle by cutting three pieces of tape place the sticky side up onto my kitchen table one piece of tape will be at one end of the mirror one in the middle and one at the other end. Donít put the tape where it will cover the end of the mirrors. These tape pieces are parallel to each other. Now lay the black glass perpendicular to the tape in the center of the length of them, next place a mirror piece on each side of the black glass right against the edge on the black glass. Gently lift the two mirror pieces up to form a triangle with the two mirror pieces touching each other. Both mirror pieces should touch exactly on the peak edges inside the triangle. The tape should have followed the mirrors up as you formed the triangle so now wrap the triangle with the tape diagonally to secure the parts and keep the pieces from slipping. Great care should be exercised to not force the mirrors to shift. Once the triangle is secured with several wrappings of tape see if it will go into the barrel with no resistance. If the mirrors slid in easily we now take the best tape in the world and make the mirror system snug in the barrel. I use good ole duct tape and start at one end of the mirror system and wrap all the way to the other end diagonally being careful not to cover the ends. Check for fit and repeat until the mirror is just snug when you insert it all the way through the barrel.

The mirror needs to be just snug enough to not rattle around in the barrel. We donít want a jittery image later when finished. Now you can set the mirror aside and we will make the object cell in the next module.

Believe me I am taking pictures and will put them into my photo album as soon as I can and this will not be so foggy then.

Mr. Wayne email [email protected]
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post #42 of 61 Old 07-23-2011, 07:28 PM
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I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures...

Looking good...

Thank you.
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post #43 of 61 Old 07-23-2011, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Joe

I really do intend to post pics soon. I have a house full of Grandsons so this isn't the best time to assault the picture project. I everyone will understand.

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post #44 of 61 Old 07-24-2011, 01:13 AM
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Cool

No problem... the grandkids are more important!
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post #45 of 61 Old 07-26-2011, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures coming

Folks


How is the best way to upload my pictures on making scopes? Am I better to put them in a post or load them to my photo gallery? I want you all to get the best results. Please post back so I get it right.

Wayne
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post #46 of 61 Old 07-26-2011, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Kaleidoscopes Module 8

Kaleidoscopes Module 8




We are getting close to the end of the instruction on how I make a kaleidoscope. I hope some of you here go for it and make your own scope. Even though some of the processes arenít easy I believe everyone here can master all the details. If I can learn it all in one day all you can too. I did have the advantage of being taught by both a master scope maker and a master trainer as well.

Our next and almost last component to discuss is the object cell. I use gemstone jars make from acrylic plastic. If you Google ďgem stone jarsĒ (without the quotes) there are several companies that offer them. One of the companies listed is FetPak in New York. These folks are where I bought my object cells. I did buy several hundred cells but I think they will sell much fewer. The order page at their web site offer 3 different sizes I get the medium size. They also say they come in white or black. This is nothing to us I throw the foam insert away.

Ok here is what we do to make this critter. I select the colors I want a few reds, blues, greens, whatever suits my mood for the day. I put them into the cell and make sure there is room for them to move freely. Once the beads are in the cell I fill it with mineral oil. You should have a most steady hand with this next function. Fill the cell all the way to the top without running over. I always place the cell on the most level table top to do this. Now take the lid and use superglue to spread a thin film all the way around the lip. You must get glue 100% around this lip or the oil will leak out. You will know when you have 100% coverage as the rim will look frosty everywhere the glue is. Donít puddle it up but do get en even coverage. I go so far as to turn the rim downward and let any excess run out. Once you have the lid glued I carefully place it onto the cell and once it slips all the way shoulder I carefully turn the top about a half turn to make sure I have spread the glue around. Do not pick the cell up to do this rotation of the lid. Keep the cell flat. This is to prevent any oil from splash onto the rim. If by accident any oil contacts the rim You must completely start over. The cell must be emptied and washed with soap and water to get all oil off the rim. Just be very careful during this operation. Allow the cell to completely cure before moving it. To make sure you do not have a leaker after it has had a few hours to cure turn the cell upside down and place on a piece of white paper for 24 hours. If all is well there will not be any oil stain on the paper. At this time if all finishing operations on the object cell housing are done slip the cell lid first into the housing. The cell should slide all the way to the bottom of the 1 Ĺ inch hole in the housing. You may have to trim some of the lid away with a file or pocket knife to get it in just be gently and donít scratch the top or bottom of the cell. I use clear silicone glue to glue it in. Just run a small bead all around the edge of the cell at the housing. Avoid getting glue on the middle of the cell. Let it sit overnight to cure.
Wayne
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post #47 of 61 Old 07-26-2011, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures are in my album

Folks

I uploaded 23 pictures into my album and did a caption on each picture.

There in still some final instructions to do and I will get back tomorrow if all goes well.

Wayne email [email protected]
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post #48 of 61 Old 07-26-2011, 11:30 PM
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Looking forward to seeing it...
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post #49 of 61 Old 08-01-2011, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Kaleidoscopes module 9

Kaleidoscopes module 9

Moving right along letís talk about final assembly. I put the glass lens into the eye piece end at this point. What I do is take the eye piece and inside the large hole we drilled a 1 Ĺ spot 1/8 inch deep. This is where the lens resides. I put a small amount of silicone adhesive around the edge of this cavity. Make sure there isnít any close to the viewing hole edge. I then carefully place the glass piece into the cavity and press downward enough to imbed the glass into the silicone just donít make it squeeze into the viewing hole.
Mirrors must be installed into the barrel of the scope. I make sure the mirror assembly is snug in the hole and push them all the way through the barrel. There are three voids between the mirror assembly and the hole in the barrel. Carefully squeeze silicone into the voids making sure no silicone gets onto the inside mirror surfaces. Let the silicon contact the wood of the barrel and the outside edges of the mirror just not inside the mirrors. Any contamination will be visible and ruin the final image. Do this to both ends. This operation will prevent dust from creeping out of the barrel and messing up the view. Set all these parts aside and leave them overnight to cure. Letís not ruin everything this close to the end.
Our last assembly task is to put the two ends on. Take the tube of silicone and reach deep into the eye piece and apply a generous amount around the bottom of the hole right next to the sides. Carefully align the barrel with the big hole in the eyepiece and slid it onto the barrel end without the groove until it hits bottom. Be careful not to twist and turn the eyepiece, just let it touch bottom.
Weíre almost done. Remember the wire we discussed earlier? Well now it comes into play. Place the wire into the groove in the barrel. Make sure it will go all the way into the groove and wrap all the way around without the ends touching. If the ends touch cut the wire shorter. Hold the wire in the groove and slide the object cell housing onto the barrel and over the wire. Continue sliding the housing onto the barrel until the wire enters the internal groove you cut in the hole in the housing. If all is right the housing will rotate and not come off when given a slight tug. At this point I would set the scope aside for an hour or two and let everything cure before too much handling so we donít get unwanted silicone contamination.
For a display stand I use drawer pulls available at any hardware store or big box home improvement store. You can get as creative as you want or plain and simple. I use a round over bit on my router table and run around the edges of a piece of wood of the same type I make the scope from.
For a finish on the stand I spray it with clear lacquer clear coat.
There are pictures in my photo gallery that help explain the different aspects of making a kaleidoscope. I hope everyone that read these posts will now go out and make a scope for themselves. Feel free to contact me via email. My email is [email protected] .
If some folks donít want to try their hand at making mirror systems or object cells I will offer to make and sell these parts to anyone needing them. Just use the email above to get in touch.
Thanks for your interest in this endeavor and happy kaleidoscoping.

Wayne
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post #50 of 61 Old 08-02-2011, 02:40 PM
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Cool

A lot to digest, Wayne...

I would consider buying parts from you... depending on the cost and whether I thought I could make'm... or not...

Thank you.
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post #51 of 61 Old 08-02-2011, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Joe

I am very sure you can make a kaldeiodscope. All the explaining in words takes so much effort it is like reading a car manual and when you get done none of it makes since. Even starting the engine is a confusing thing until you turn the key and the engine roars to life.

At any rate I will keep adding new stuf as I think about it.

Wayne
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post #52 of 61 Old 08-04-2011, 06:16 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. I have enjoyed it and plan to attempt to make one. I will post here if I get it done.
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post #53 of 61 Old 08-04-2011, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Michael

It ain't over til you win. You can do one if I could do one. If you have any problems just email me and I will get back to you asap.
Wayne [email protected]

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post #54 of 61 Old 08-06-2011, 09:48 PM
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I would be very interested in learning how to make kaleidoscopes.
Thanks Wayne!
Randy
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post #55 of 61 Old 08-06-2011, 10:15 PM
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Thanks Wayne, and welcome!

This will be on my short list of projects.

Very neat idea!

p

...ever notice how "I'm sorry" and "I apologize" mean the same thing, unless you are at a funeral..?
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post #56 of 61 Old 08-08-2011, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Kaleidoscopes module 10

Kaleidoscopes module 10
 
I know it looks like I have abandoned the kaleidoscope posting but I have not gone away. I have had some extra long days at work and I have just had no gas left when I got home. Thanks for a job.
Well so much for that dribble. Let’s kinda summarize what we have covered so far. I have pictures in my photo album and maybe they will clear up most questions anyone has up to this point.
I would think the main bullets for this project could go as follows.

1) Decide what wood you want to use. Anything you find pleasant will work. One scope I made was from plain bass wood. When I got it to the right point I handed it over to my wife and she painted a marble faux finish on it. Very stunning.

2) I would think about which mirror system you want , a 2 mirror system, a 3 mirror system. Now is the time to decide if 45 deg mirrors are ok. Actually this is probably the best angle to start with since I haven’t posted the dimensions for the glass and mirror widths. If anyone wants them I will post them later. Let me know is needed.

3) Do all the wood glue ups and turn and drill the wood pieces and cut the groove for the retainer wire. Finish all the wood parts to the shape and finish you prefer.

4) Cut the wire to the proper length to slip into the groove. Make sure the ends do not touch shorter is better.

5) Make the object cell either dry or with mineral oil. Just make sure the oil doesn’t leak out when turner lip end down.

6) Cut a 1inch square clear glass lens to go into the eye piece end. Place a small dab of silicone into the hole way down in the eye piece. Just be mindful not to squeeze silicone into the viewing are.

7) Install the object cell into the object cell housing into the 1 Ĺ diameter pocket we drilled. Make sure it pushes all the way down to the bottom. Squeeze silicone around the object cell at the outer edge of the cell at the hole side.

8) Insert mirror system into the barrel. Apply silicone into the 3 voids on each end of the barrel, just do not get any into the inside of the mirror. Should some get in the mirror don’t panic. Let it cure then peel it off the mirror with a sharp knife. Be careful not to damage the mirrors of cut yourself. Blood in the mirrors does not enhance the view. J

9) Now go take a rest, take in a movie or anything to keep your mind off the scope, it needs time for the silicone to cure.

10) Place the wire into the groove in the barrel and slide the object cell housing onto this end slide it over the wire and on down onto the barrel until you feel the wire snap into the internal groove in the housing. This will retain the housing so it rotates without falling off.

11) Sparingly smear silicone around the inside of the eye piece hole and slide the eyepiece onto the barrel. Just slide it straight on and do not rotate it any. Slide it to the bottom and stop.

12) Let everything just sit there for a while so the silicone cures then start looking through the eyepiece and rotate the object cell and enjoy the view.
 
Since the colored beads randomly fall as the cell is rotated the view will never repeat the same pattern. Every movement of the object cell make some of the beads shift creating a brand new image. So if you never want to miss the view you can never stop looking and rotating.

This is mostly the end of this series of instructions. I hope they have been of some value to everyone that has read them. I will be posting again from time to time about anything I think may help.

I can be reached at [email protected] feel free to get in touch with questions or suggestions I am open to offering and help or additional topics you want to know about.
It has been fun, it has been real, and it has been my pleasure.
Mr. Wayne [email protected]
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post #57 of 61 Old 10-27-2011, 03:15 PM
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MrWayne,

I would be interested in seeing a tutorial on this as well. My son would go bonkers for one.

Thanks.

Rule #9 Never go anywhere without a knife.
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post #58 of 61 Old 10-27-2011, 06:49 PM
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I just saw this thread for the first time. And how timely. Last week I told my wife I wanted to make k-scopes for our twin grandboys. I had no idea how involved it is. I had done a little looking around but never found much nuts&bolts about making them.

This would be one of the better how-to threads on the entire forum if it had images showing the descriptions in each respective post. I know you said they're in your gallery (haven't looked yet but will) but they need to be in this thread within each relevant post. I'm all for the e-book because i know for certain I want to build some.

Thanks a million. 5 stars.




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post #59 of 61 Old 10-27-2011, 07:25 PM
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Question

TexT:

I agree 100%...

I hope you will have no problems making them for your GrandBoys!

... maybe you could include pictures in your story...
... if you choose to post one...

Looks like he wants to be contacted directly... etc., etc.

Last edited by Joe Lyddon; 10-28-2011 at 12:44 PM.
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post #60 of 61 Old 10-28-2011, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your comments

Guys,
Thanks for your comments. I am currently building my website. It is under construction and should be finished in a couple weeks. Learning all about websites and how to make them work is a big job.

Must of the pictures in my gallery section shows the steps I take. I will try to get some more that will explain better how to do each step.

There has been many issues in my family in the last few months and that is why I haven't been more active.

I can be reached at [email protected]

Thanks for the interest.

MrWayne
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