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post #1 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Inlay attempts

Decided to try some InLace stuff...

Not unhappy with these, overall...

Turning the maple bowl now.
Void is at least 3/4" deep, chucked some shavings in so's I didn't have to use a pound of stones.

Medium CA used.

Would LOVE to find some tinted CA...

Black, most notably.

S'ry again 'bout the fuzzies.

Thanks,
p





...ever notice how "I'm sorry" and "I apologize" mean the same thing, unless you are at a funeral..?
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 11:44 AM
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Don't be so hard on yourself. The bowls look fantastic and the inlay was an experiment that was a total success in my opinion. Great work.

There is a very fine line between a "hobby" and a "mental illness"
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 03:02 PM
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Bowls look great. Glad you posted an inlace material application. I have been wanting to try this technique on bowls, calls etc but did not know what it is called. By the way here is a source for dyes http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? I did a google search after I read your post. They also carry different inlaces. They recommend epoxy rather than CA glue. Here is another source http://turtlefeathers.net/text/inlace/inlace-main.html.

Last edited by Bob Willing; 06-25-2011 at 03:15 PM. Reason: add source
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!
Truly!

I'll try the epoxy soon...
Hope the CA holds up, though it's not that big an area...

Here's the inside...

I do like it!

Possibly my best effort yet, mainly 'cause o' the pretty wood!

Left a bit thicker, +/- 3/16", due to the nature of the spalting.

p





...ever notice how "I'm sorry" and "I apologize" mean the same thing, unless you are at a funeral..?
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 04:46 PM
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I'm not sure how you would tint CA. Can you buy it already tinted?
Anyway, I tint epoxy with acrylic artists paints. A little goes a long way.
If you use the turquoise colored "stones", black is the way to go.

Much of my inlay material (raw turquoise) has been crushed and ground to the consistency of flour. Some, I leave like fine sand. Depends on the effect I need.

If the cavity is over 3/16-1/4" deep, you can partially fill it with epoxy (to an 1/8th from the top. Let it set up and then place the material.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 06:06 PM
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Paulie,
Try using epoxy for your inlays instead of the ca. You have to use the epoxy that takes 24 hours to cure. You can tint the epoxy with any of the transtint dyes. One of our club members did a demo on it a couple of months back. You can use just about anything for your inlay also.
Mike Hawkins
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Gene/Mike,
Most of the wood I turn is, at least, damp.

I have found that if I turn the outside, and return the next day to finish, I'll have significant checking...

And thats in arid SE Texas.

I wonder about "24hr" epoxy...

I know that I should wait for wood to dry, or rough turn, but...

I guess I'm an "instant gratification" guy!

I've only been doing this since Jan., and have had very few dry blanks to play with...

I DO appreciate all the good advice, though, even if I seem to disregard a bit!

Thanks!

p

...ever notice how "I'm sorry" and "I apologize" mean the same thing, unless you are at a funeral..?

Last edited by txpaulie; 06-25-2011 at 09:00 PM. Reason: Dinner is served!
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-25-2011, 11:08 PM
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Black tint

One thing that I do is outline the hole with black magic marker. You can 'paint' many of the stones the same way. When you start to reduce the outcrop of the Turquoise, the stones will show up with black outlines. Creats contrast. I use a delta disc/belt sander with a 1 inch belt. If you work very carefully with little to very little pressure you can bring the stones down even with the outside of the bowl.

Don't create very much pressure, and don't build up any heat in the CA

Last edited by okiebugg; 06-25-2011 at 11:10 PM. Reason: forgot something
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-26-2011, 03:59 PM
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Paulie,
You need to do more rough turning, then let the bowls dry for a few months and finish turn them. I know it sounds like a pain waiting, but after the initial time lag, you will start having some bowls to turn that shouldn't crack on you. In the meantime while waiting for your first bowls to dry, get some dry wood in plank form and glue up some layers and turn a bowl from them. If you want, you can cut each layer like a ring and make your bowl blank from that to eliminate a lot of interior wood removal.
Mike Hawkins
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-29-2011, 03:28 AM
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Paulie ,
Nice work on the bowls mate . Love the spalted one

I fill knot holes and raggedy bark inclusions with CA glue and black tea leaves . I drop in thin CA and then pack in the tea leaves while dropping in more glue.
For lighter knots I use used tea leaves , for their red-brown look.

If I were a coffee drinker I'd use ground beans

Jock

Last edited by Manuka Jock; 06-29-2011 at 03:37 AM.
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