How long to dry? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-21-2010, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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How long to dry?

I have a White Birch in the front yard,kinda small,8-10" in dia.Its starting to p___ me off,dropping pollen and the aphids getting sticky stuff all over the cars.If I cut her down to blanks,how long do I have to let dry to use it for turning?P.S. Ive shown it my axe a couple of times as a warning but its still acting up.Itchy

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-21-2010, 08:14 PM
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Ive shown it my axe a couple of times as a warning but its still acting up.Itchy

Nuke it!

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 6 Old 09-22-2010, 03:02 AM
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I have not been very successful drying bowl blanks. It takes way to long and the wood checks. I've had pretty good luck saving them until I could turn them by coating them completely with wax. Most bowls I either rough turn them to about an inch thick and let them dry for 5 or 6 months, or I finish turn them to 3/8" or less and just let them warp.
Even with the rough turning procedure I have failures but they are getting fewer. You have to turn everything to the same thickness, bottom tenon and all. The bottom warps less so you can get away with leaving it thinner. I coat all endgrain areas with Anchorseal. If it's a wood I really really want to save I'll put it in a paper sack for the first month.
For bowls that I turn to completion, I just turn them thin and let them dry for about 2 to 3 days. Then I sand the bottom flat and occasionally the rim also. The biggest hassle with this is sanding. Wet wood clogs the sandpaper instantly. I dry the surface with a hair dryer and sand but this is also a pain. Sometimes I will just let it warp and put it back on the lathe and power sand with a drill and leave the lathe turned off. You need someway to lock the lathe in different positions to do this. I now have indexing on my lathe so I just push in the index pin. Before I had that I put a web clamp around the lathe bed and over the chuck. Then I could tension that enough that it would hold the bowl where I wanted it to sand it.
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-22-2010, 11:44 AM
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One year per inch of thickness is the time frame to get it completely dry. That isn't fun to wait on, so most people rough turn them green, leaving the form much thicker than it eventually will be. Then you wait on it to dry (and crack and warp), then finish turn it to final dimension months later. A better option is to rough turn it so the walls'thickness is 10% of the overall width of the form, then soak it in DNA for a couple days, then wrap it in newspaper and put it in a paper bag for a couple months. After a month or so, weigh it daily and record the weight loss. When it stops getting lighter it is dry/acclimated and ready to finish turning.
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-22-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Im too old to wait months or years till the wood dries.The tree will go to the dump.Ill stick to glueing up and turning of the hardwood I get at the lumberyard or maybe buy the blanks already dried.Theres a place, in a close to me town, that sells blanks , Ill have to visit it.

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-22-2010, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Itchy Brother View Post
Im too old to wait months or years till the wood dries.The tree will go to the dump.Ill stick to glueing up and turning of the hardwood I get at the lumberyard or maybe buy the blanks already dried.Theres a place, in a close to me town, that sells blanks , Ill have to visit it.
Hello Itchy. I know the feeling sometimes I have the felling that I may be becoming to mature (77) to wait for sometihing to come about. I try to short cut the sore points when I can. As for drying wood it does take a long time and there is the warping, and checking. Some of the pain can be lessend with treating the wood. PEG 1000, availabel from some wood supply stores, will stablelize green wood to stop the warp, check. I have used White Glue and water to do the same thing (stablize) the piece. I mix the glue with a volume of water to cover the pieces, and let them soak up the mixture. You can work them and recondition as needed. They will be stable, the only side effect can be in the finish. kGood to see your post. Jackie!
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