how to Drill through 7"-2x2? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 Old 09-29-2009, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
View Rick M's Photo Album My Photos
how to Drill through 7"-2x2?

Hey guys/girls,
What a great site! Lots of good info here! I have a question and I hope somebody can help me out.
Im have alot of trouble trying to drill a 1/8" hole though a 7"-2x2 piece of ceder lengthwise. Im trying to achieve this by using my lathe and a 10" drill bit. By the time the bit makes it through the wood it is WAY off center. Is there another way to try this or a better drill bit to buy? Im using a Sears bit at the moment. Thanks for ANY suggestions,
Rick
Rick M is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 Old 09-29-2009, 08:04 PM
Senior Sawdust Sweeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga. USA
Posts: 1,472
View Gary Beasley's Photo Album My Photos
Sounds like the bit is following the grain. Have you tried speeding up the rotation and slowing the rate of penetration?
Gary Beasley is offline  
post #3 of 15 Old 09-29-2009, 08:25 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,623
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
If all else fails

Rip the piece down it's length, saw a blade width dado in one or both pieces and glue it back together. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 15 Old 09-29-2009, 08:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 12,475
View GeorgeC's Photo Album My Photos
Why does the hole have to be perfectly centered. I have bored a 3/8" hole through the leg of a table lamp table so that the zip cord can be run through. No problem boring the hole as long as centering is not reqired. I did this with the table leg held in a vise and using an 24" bit. It was off center, but not by a great amount.

G
GeorgeC is online now  
post #5 of 15 Old 09-29-2009, 10:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Baxter, Tennessee
Posts: 3,257
View john lucas's Photo Album My Photos
I have tried a lot of ways of drilling though the center of a piece. It's just about impossible except with special lamp boring bits or aircraft bits. By far the best way is to drill the hole. Then remount the piece using the holes as the center. That way the hole will be perfectly centered.
I use a homemade adaptor for my tailstock to fit in the hole if I can't use the 60 degree point. If you need to hold it more firmly put it between centers with light pressure and then turn a tenon with light cuts using your parting tool. Then you can grip the tenon in your chuck and the use the tailstock in the other hole.
john lucas is offline  
post #6 of 15 Old 09-29-2009, 11:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Handyman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Amidst of 1000 acers of crawfish ponds under a 500 year old Oak grove. SW La
Posts: 1,455
View Handyman's Photo Album My Photos
Send a message via AIM to Handyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Beasley View Post
Sounds like the bit is following the grain. Have you tried speeding up the rotation and slowing the rate of penetration?
Gary has the right idea but I would add one more thing. Drill half way from both ends. That way your hole on both ends is were you need it to be.

Collector of Old Tools
Fixer of all things broke
Expert = Drip under pressure
Handyman is offline  
post #7 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 01:58 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Baxter, Tennessee
Posts: 3,257
View john lucas's Photo Album My Photos
On a 7" piece with a 1/8" bit I would be surprised if you could drill from both ends and have it meet. You probably can with 1/4 or maybe 3/8" but not an 1/8". Of course is also depends on the wood. If the grain runs out the side the bit will wander worse.
john lucas is offline  
post #8 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
View Rick M's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Beasley View Post
Sounds like the bit is following the grain. Have you tried speeding up the rotation and slowing the rate of penetration?

Yes, I have tried this. Some turn out perfect and others are WAY off. If you look down the hole after being turned, you can see that the hole wanders.


Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Rip the piece down it's length, saw a blade width dado in one or both pieces and glue it back together. bill

Wish it was that easy.lol But thank you! I cannot cut the wood in half. It would make for way to much work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
Why does the hole have to be perfectly centered. I have bored a 3/8" hole through the leg of a table lamp table so that the zip cord can be run through. No problem boring the hole as long as centering is not reqired. I did this with the table leg held in a vise and using an 24" bit. It was off center, but not by a great amount.

The reason it need to be perfect is because its a lure I build. There will be a metal rod that runs through the peice when it is done.

G
Quote:
Originally Posted by Handyman View Post
Gary has the right idea but I would add one more thing. Drill half way from both ends. That way your hole on both ends is were you need it to be.
I have tried this also. But i need it to be some what perfect through out the entire piece. not just the two centers.


Thanks Everyone for the replies! Just a little more head scratching and Im sure Ill get it. What the difference with a Airplane Bit? -Rick
Rick M is offline  
post #9 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 03:52 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,623
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
If you are making a bunch of these "lures"

Then ripping the wood down its length and gluing/epoxying it back together in 8 ft lengths would not be that much work, since you could then saw them to length and you'd be done in a heart beat!
But I'm only the free advice guy over here I don't know all the circumstances, but that's what I'd be doin' if it were me. The joint would be virtually invisible and the slot would be a quick pass over the blade at 1/8" deep. bill
Mass production lures!

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is offline  
post #10 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 08:07 PM
4Woodturning
 
Jeff4woodturning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cedar Hill, MO.
Posts: 352
View Jeff4woodturning's Photo Album My Photos
I would drill form both ends, also at a slow speed and back out drill bit often to clear out shavings so they don't bind up and force drill bit off center.

Jeff,

"Just because your not bleeding, don't mean your turning safely"..
Jeff4woodturning is offline  
post #11 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
View Rick M's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Then ripping the wood down its length and gluing/epoxying it back together in 8 ft lengths would not be that much work, since you could then saw them to length and you'd be done in a heart beat!
But I'm only the free advice guy over here I don't know all the circumstances, but that's what I'd be doin' if it were me. The joint would be virtually invisible and the slot would be a quick pass over the blade at 1/8" deep. bill
Mass production lures!
Hmm..not a bad idea to try. Thanks
Rick M is offline  
post #12 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
View Rick M's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff4woodturning View Post
I would drill form both ends, also at a slow speed and back out drill bit often to clear out shavings so they don't bind up and force drill bit off center.
Thats what Im going to try next time. I think your right on with the shavings binding up. Thanks
Rick M is offline  
post #13 of 15 Old 09-30-2009, 09:55 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: UP of Michigan
Posts: 1,048
View Bob Willing's Photo Album My Photos
Have you ever thought of taking an 1/8" steel rod heating it and burning it through? I someone who makes flutes with this process in bass wood.
Bob Willing is offline  
post #14 of 15 Old 10-01-2009, 06:06 AM
4Woodturning
 
Jeff4woodturning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cedar Hill, MO.
Posts: 352
View Jeff4woodturning's Photo Album My Photos
Rick one more thing, don't know if you check to make sure your lathe is running true. Drive spur with a point in the head stock and run the tail stock up to see if points match. if your off there, it will ever drill center..

Jeff,

"Just because your not bleeding, don't mean your turning safely"..
Jeff4woodturning is offline  
post #15 of 15 Old 10-01-2009, 12:58 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Baxter, Tennessee
Posts: 3,257
View john lucas's Photo Album My Photos
The best way to drill straight long holes is to use a D drill or an aircraft drill. These are kind of hard to find and I found from practical experience that it is still hard to drill a perfectly straight hole through wood even with these.
These drills cut with only one side of the drill so it acts more like a metal boring cutter than a drill bit. Drill bits that cut with both sides will easily wander in wood, especially the small ones.
It is by far easier to drill the hole and then mount the wood between centers using the holes as the guides. If you must mount the wood in a chuck, mount it first between centers and then turn a tenon for the chuck. This will center it perfectly. When you then mount it in the chuck, bring the tailstock up for the initial mounting to make sure the hole runs true.
john lucas is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Steel City 17" Drill Press vs Delta 17-959L Confounded Tool Reviews 13 10-05-2009 11:38 PM
Where can you go to "borrow" a drill press? Fryar Tuck General Woodworking Discussion 16 06-26-2009 09:22 PM
"Old Gallery" to "My Photos" cabinetman Site Help and Suggestions 1 11-05-2008 05:20 PM
Drill bits under 3/16" - resharpen or just buy new? End Grain Power Tools & Machinery 6 03-02-2008 07:54 AM
8" Blade for cutting 1" thick plastic (cast PMMA) sheet? space_coyote Power Tools & Machinery 2 12-19-2007 02:46 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome