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post #1 of 8 Old 01-24-2012, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Holly

For those of you that use Holly in your turnings, how do you keep that pure white look??? What do you use to finish and do you seal it first and if so what product?? Thanks.

John T.
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-25-2012, 01:03 AM
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For those of you that use Holly in your turnings, how do you keep that pure white look??? What do you use to finish and do you seal it first and if so what product?? Thanks.
My understanding is that it's not a matter of KEEPING the white, it's a matter of GETTING the white. Holly is very touchy about how it is dried and it turns grey if you look at it sideways. Once it's completely dry if it's white it stays white.

That's been my very limited experience. How about other folks?

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post #3 of 8 Old 01-25-2012, 09:00 AM
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Lightbulb Finishing Holly

My method for finishing a Holly turning is to use several coats of a thin CA glue before the final sanding. After that is complete I use a product called Shella Wax. (Shella Wax products are available from Woodcraft and they are a little costly but well worth the result.) The first is a paste with extremely fine grit which I apply with a soft cotton cloth. After several applications, I use the second Shella Wax product which is a liquid friction wax. I use anywhere from 4 to 6 coats, letting the heat build up until it's almost too hot to touch. What results is a shine which is somewhere between glossy and semi-glossy.

It has been my experience that many woods will naturally darken with exposure to ultraviolet light. As far as I know there is no way to stop that from happening. Hand oils and dirt will also darken the wood over time. To make the wood impervious to the oil and dirt you could finish the wood with 6 or 7 coats of CA glue and sanding down to a 12,000 grit. This finish is super shiny but extremely strong.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-25-2012, 10:41 AM
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just spitballing here but if holly naturally goes grey with exposure to UV light then how about drying it in the dark until completely dry then turn... Just a thought dont know how all that works but seems like it might work if UV light is the culprit
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-25-2012, 11:13 AM
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just spitballing here but if holly naturally goes grey with exposure to UV light then how about drying it in the dark until completely dry then turn... Just a thought dont know how all that works but seems like it might work if UV light is the culprit
Dark or light during drying is not the issue. It's a chemical thing that has to do with drying temperatures and speed, in addition to the time of year that the wood was cut and how long it sits out before going to the kiln. There are anecdotal tales that you HAVE to cut it at a certain time in the winter and get it into the kiln within a day or two.

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post #6 of 8 Old 01-25-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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The holly I have is pure white and dry. No problem there. I want to keep it that way. I tried CA but it dinged it yellow abit. I am looking to see if there is something better. I will try Deft lacquer, waterbased lacquer and waterbased poly. I am just looking to seal it. I am going to top coat with CA as I do all my wood pens.

John T.
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-26-2012, 01:09 PM
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Not trying to take over thread but had a question on Holly...I have a client who just had a large holly tree cut down and she has alot of rounds that she wants me to remove. My question is whats the best method for drying out some for future projects and is it worth it to dry them? The tree was cut down in late Nov of 2011.

Thanks for any help and sorry to derail your question OP
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-26-2012, 02:05 PM
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need to seal the ends and store in a dry area Cheap paint is good to seal the ends or get a bottle of green seal

All Pictures Posted by Bigcouger are owned by Roy Millsaps an is not to be copied or used with advertisements without the written consent of said person. Pictures are here to help guide you in your woodworking abilities an to encourage you in your wood working hobbies, not to be copied
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