gluing segmented blocks - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 01-26-2011, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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gluing segmented blocks

I have used Titebond II and III as well as the new Elmers. All three get tacky and hard to reposition in a very short time. Has anyone used a glue that will give you 10-15 minutes time before it begins to set?
Frustrating to glue 7 or 11 blocks and find that you have to repostion all to get the last one to fit.
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John90
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-26-2011, 04:55 PM
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Epoxy. I generally don't have problems using titebond ll but if i think I am going to run into time problems I use a 2 part epoxy. My favorite is West systems because I have the rapid hardener and slow hardener although I have found the rapid hardener is not that rapid and usually works. It's easy to clean up with alcohol if you make a mess.
I tried polyeurethane and it sucks. I have not found anything it will go that epoxy or yellow glue won't do better and it's easy to clean up either mess.
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-26-2011, 04:57 PM
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I forgot to mention that you can color the epoxy or thicken it depending on your needs. I use either India Ink or acrylic paint to color it. To thicken it I buy the 410 West System thickener.
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-26-2011, 09:11 PM
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Welcome to our forum, John.

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 12:29 AM
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Just had a thought. If you dyed the epoxy and used thin planks, it might be a poor man's way to produce that fancy laminated wood.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 10:01 AM
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gluing segmented blocks

All I use is tightbond and don't have a problem with it.could be your trying to glue to many pieces at once,if you have a lot of pieces,just make sure the are ready to go when you put the glue on em.just set the ring in place,then put the glue on em then clamp em.

God Bless all
Ken Ward

Last edited by The woodsman; 01-27-2011 at 10:04 AM.
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 10:28 AM
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Could it be the technique of gluing them together thats the problem and not the glue itself. I ask because I'm new to this also and would like to make sure I have the right info myself.

If I understand the question you have lets say 12 pieces that when together make a circle. then the next layer has 16 pieces to make a circle. as your gluing all of them together in the first layer the glue is drying before you can get the last piece in. My numbers may not be right but that's how How I interpreted the problem.

If so am I correct in thinking that the alignment is off at the end a little which could be fixed by using a template under the work to ensure proper placement while gluing? Then do the same thing with the next layer and so on. After all layers have dried you then glue the layers together.

Again I'm trying to get the info also so if I'm wrong let me know.

Itchy Brother had a good post on one of his first segmented bowls which is where I got this idea. So if I wrong blame Itchy if I'm right forget the last part and I'll take the credit.

Last edited by rrbrown; 01-27-2011 at 10:38 AM.
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 02:27 PM
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i had 12 pcs in each layer i did on my bowl so i glued 12 then 12 more and so on,let them dry then stacked and glued the next day
but i also had trouble with my peices drying some before i got the 12 placed
was a real pain
ill do better next time im sure
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 05:06 PM
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when i glue my segments together i usally lay out some masking tape and lay all of the parts on to the tape in the order i want them in, this gives me a chance to string them together and make sure there are no gaps in between the segments before gluing.
i usally put a little glue into the joints spread it out with a brush or exacto knife and then tape it together and put your worm clamp around the glued ring and set it off to the side to dry.

Last edited by davesplane; 01-27-2011 at 05:09 PM. Reason: add pics
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post #10 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 05:41 PM
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gluing segmented blocks

Forgot to mention the tape,I do that with all my boxes also,so all I do is apply the glue and clamp

God Bless all
Ken Ward
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-27-2011, 08:49 PM
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When I do my bowls I lay all the pieces on the table in the order that I want them. I apply the glue to all the pieces with a glue brush,and then rub them each together to spread the glue evenly. Then I put the strap clamp around and tighten. I always make sure to apply a generous amount of glue to the pieces. I have probably turned 14 or 15 segmented bowls and have never had a problem. Before I glue I make sure everything is ready to go, I put glue in a little container so all I have to do is dip the brush in the glue and spread on the piece. I make sure to spread the glue as rapidly as possible. The only glue I have used for my segmented turnings is Titebond III and have had no issues. Each ring of the bowls I have turned have 12 pieces in them.

Assumption is the mother of all foul -ups
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-29-2011, 12:01 PM
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Try gluing up your parts in pairs before gluing the whole ring together at once.

James
Whittier, CA.

Just because you can, doesn't always mean you should!
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-02-2011, 07:33 PM
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I glue up my rings in two halves with a 12 piece rings 6 and 6 then I can sand the edges slightly to make sure they match up flat then glue the two halves together.
Jerry
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post #14 of 16 Old 02-03-2011, 09:26 AM
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I glue up my rings with titebond ll usually in one step. What I don't do is rub them together to form a thin layer of glue. Then I do the next one and so on. When all the pieces are together I put a hose clamp around them and tighten it up. Sometimes I'll have to pry one or two pieces on the outside or inside to get them into alignment.
I think your problem may be using too little glue. If you have a very thin layer of glue it will start setting and it's hard to move the pieces. I do this with really complicated glue ups. I"ll rub the joint together until it starts to grab and hold it in that position for the count of 20, usually on wax paper on my workbench. Then I'll just let that pair sit while I work on the next.
I try to do the complicated glue ups in sets that will end in a 45, 90, or 180 degree edge. That way I can check them against a square and true them up if necessary before gluing the pairs together. This gives perfect fitting rings but if you have to remove very much wood while truing them up the pattern may not match because the circle within the ring will not be a true circle.
If you get Malcom Tibbets'book on segmented turning he will answer a lot of your questions.
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-10-2011, 08:44 PM
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Thanks......

Great answers here !! I'm new to this forum and have already learned quite a bit. I've been doing this about 4 yrs and learned everything by trial and error , maybe thats why the cat is glued to the ceiling in the garage. Thanks guys , i'll stay tuned !!
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post #16 of 16 Old 02-12-2011, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. Started using a nylon band clamp and was able to move much quicker. Think I'll change out the 1" nylon band and go with a 3/4" to prevent a tendency to lift. Again, thanks for your help
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