Gluing pen blanks - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Gluing pen blanks

I am really green to turning. I am having a problem with my brass tubes staying stuck to my pen blanks when I'm milling them with my barrel trimmer. Any advice guys?
Thanks
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post #2 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 06:21 PM
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Did you glue them with anything or you working with a press in fit? CA glue works well.
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post #3 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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I am using a gel ca glue. I squirt a little in the hole and put a little on the tube before I insert it. I twist and turn it inside the hole to try and get the glue all over the inside of the hole. Then I spray an accelerant inside the hole.
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post #4 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 06:45 PM
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i use med CA and put like 4 lines the length of the tube then twist while i insert it
other like epoxy best but I personally have never had a failure
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post #5 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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How long do you let it set before milling?
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post #6 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 08:10 PM
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How long do you let it set before milling?
30 min minimum
I would kinda think that jell might be to thick to cover good
try the medium
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post #7 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Robert. I had actually thought that about the gel. I'm going to try the medium. Maybe thick?
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post #8 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 08:22 PM
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Robert. I had actually thought that about the gel. I'm going to try the medium. Maybe thick?
its up to you but I always use medium
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post #9 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going with what you say Robert. Surely You've been turning longer than I have. I'm going to get some tomorrow. Have you ever used anything other than ca? I've heard of people using tite-bond instant and getting the same results.
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post #10 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 08:37 PM
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I'm going with what you say Robert. Surely You've been turning longer than I have. I'm going to get some tomorrow. Have you ever used anything other than ca? I've heard of people using tite-bond instant and getting the same results.
most of my buddies use epoxy but like i said med CA has always worked for me
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post #11 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 08:54 PM
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I agree with the medium CA glue. If the brass tubes that come with your kits are shiny you have to scuff them up with fine sandpaper so the glue can adhere to them better. I buy my kits from Penn State and they come pre-scuffed. I recently read a gluing tip that I am going to try, squirt some CA glue on a piece of wax paper then roll the tube in it for a nice even coat then insert it in the blank.

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post #12 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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I can see what y'all are talking about with the med ca. Come to think about it every time I put the gel ca glue in the hole before I insert the tube I look at the other end and there is quite a bit being pushed out. Plus the gel that i put on the tube too. Very little glue actually goes into the hole.
Joeb. That sounds like a very good gluing tip. I'm going to try that tomorrow.
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post #13 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 09:36 PM
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I, personally use 5 minute epoxy applied to the entire inside of the blank and a glob all the way around the first inch or so of the brass tube. I have tried various methods of preventing epoxy on the inside with mixed success, but have the best luck with a pipe cleaner from the craft store dipped in denatured alcohol which I then use to clean out the epoxy the moment after the tube is inserted. I give a decent scrub then pull the pipe cleaner out with the clean end being the trailing end through the tube.

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post #14 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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I received an email from WWGOA the other day that was saying what tite-bond glue is best for what application. So I clicked into it and it gave several applications to choose from. Inserts for pen turning was one of the choices. It recommended the tite-bond instant. That was why I was asking you about it earlier Robert.
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post #15 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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I also have noticed on the last three pens that I have turned that when I apply my first coat of ca when finishing that my eyes start to burn just about 15-20 seconds into applying. They burn pretty good too.
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post #16 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Shiny View Post
I am really green to turning. I am having a problem with my brass tubes staying stuck to my pen blanks when I'm milling them with my barrel trimmer. Any advice guys?
Thanks
Just about any kind of glue should work, but I spotted several problems:
Quote:
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I am using a gel ca glue. I squirt a little in the hole and put a little on the tube before I insert it. I twist and turn it inside the hole to try and get the glue all over the inside of the hole. Then I spray an accelerant inside the hole.
If you use CA, go with medium. You might also consider epoxy and polyurethane glue. Two problems I see with your method besides using gel glue:
  1. Don't put glue down the hole ... that's just asking for a mess because most of the glue will wind up inside the brass tube. First sand the tube lightly and then put glue on the outside of the tube only. Very quickly insert it into the hole while giving it a half twist.
  2. Please don't tell me that you are spraying accelerator down the hole after the glue has been "smeared around". It sounds like you might be pulling the tube out and spraying and then inserting the tube again. Forget about messing with accelerator because you might be causing the glue to set up before the tube is inserted. Accelerator just makes the glue weaker. Also, forget about wasting time smearing the glue around because there is no need to try to completely cover all surfaces.
Medium CA will set fast enough on its own. If your pens are wood, you can even use PVA glue. The only glue that I would advise against is hide glue.
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I also have noticed on the last three pens that I have turned that when I apply my first coat of ca when finishing that my eyes start to burn just about 15-20 seconds into applying. They burn pretty good too.
Don't use accelerator. I prefer super thin CA for finishing. It sets really fast so I recommend putting CA on a paper towel, making a very fast wipe and then toss the paper towel. Don't try to get all the goody out of the glue in the paper towel. Use the glue and paper towels like somebody else is paying for it. If you try to wipe until the paper towel starts to smoke, it leads to all sorts of finishing problems and produces noxious fumes. So, just a quick wipe and toss ... that's it. Then after the CA has set repeat ... just one quick wipe ... not two wipes and not a slow wipe. I think that you will like the results.

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post #17 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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I have both thin and gel ca. I will be getting me some medium. I appreciate all this information and input. Very valuable.
I have another question. I know this is a personal preference to everyone here. When finishing I have been using the thin ca. Putting just a couple coats on. Then switching over to mylands friction polish and putting a couple of coats of it on. Then I wax and polish one time. And done. I know I'm going to get bombarded with different ways to do this. Am I doing this right??
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post #18 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 11:38 PM
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If you ask 100 woodworkers the "right" way to finish something you are going to get at least 100 different answers. Whatever you do don't ask what the best table saw is.
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post #19 of 34 Old 10-27-2015, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Shiny View Post
I have both thin and gel ca. I will be getting me some medium. I appreciate all this information and input. Very valuable.
I have another question. I know this is a personal preference to everyone here. When finishing I have been using the thin ca. Putting just a couple coats on. Then switching over to mylands friction polish and putting a couple of coats of it on. Then I wax and polish one time. And done. I know I'm going to get bombarded with different ways to do this. Am I doing this right??
I believe in picking one kind of finish on a project and not mixing things up by layering a bunch of different things together. Layering, in my perspective can only degrade the overall result. Decide which you think is best and stick with it. at least for that one pen. If you want high gloss, nothing beats CA. Mylands give a good medium gloss, but I wouldn't apply it over CA. Wax give a soft sheen. I generally do not use wax unless it is used with nothing else. Sometimes I use it over a drying oil finish. A hard wax like carnauba can be used over other types of finish, but it will lower a high gloss down to a softer gloss.

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post #20 of 34 Old 10-28-2015, 12:18 AM
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Thick CA all the way for me. I have backed my car over pens and the had maybe a scuff mark.

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