Getting the hang of it... but uh... have a few questions - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-12-2011, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Getting the hang of it... but uh... have a few questions

So I'm having a blast getting to know my lathe. Thanks for all the tips you've given me thus far. I do have a few questions though:

I'm having a hard time keeping the drive spur in the workpiece. It starts there, no problem but after several minutes, it starts spinning free and I have to crank down on the tailstock to get it going again. Eventually it gets to the point where I've worn a hole in the piece where it meets the drive spur. I have to make a trip to the band saw to take a slice off the end and start all over again.

Also, and this is the bigger problem: How do you finish the ends where the spurs meet the piece? I've turned a few small test pieces, a mini baseball bat and tonight I took my chances trying to make a wooden mallet. I got the handle turned and the mallet itself, but I'm not sure how to finish the ends.

It's made from scrap cherry, oak and hog.


Ut Prosim

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post #2 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 02:42 AM
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That looks well done.

When you are turning a piece between centers you need to plan for waste. Say for example, if that mallet head in you picture is

say 4" long you need to start with a piece. 6" long. On each end of the finished piece you will have waste which you you

turn down as small as you dare, maybe 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter. Then just use a hand saw to cut off the excess and sand it to

clean it up.


As far as the drive center, are you drilling a small hole for the point? Also use a mallet or a scrap piece of wood to drive the spur

center into the piece. What type of center is it? 4 prong?

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post #3 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 06:07 AM
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On hardwood you need to cut slots in the blank for your drive spur to bite into, you shouldn't use your tailstock to put excess pressure on the piece, just enough to hold it against the spur. Ditto what Slat said about waste on both ends.

Nice looking mallet you got there, good job.

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post #4 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slatron25 View Post
That looks well done.

When you are turning a piece between centers you need to plan for waste. Say for example, if that mallet head in you picture is

say 4" long you need to start with a piece. 6" long. On each end of the finished piece you will have waste which you you

turn down as small as you dare, maybe 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter. Then just use a hand saw to cut off the excess and sand it to

clean it up.


As far as the drive center, are you drilling a small hole for the point? Also use a mallet or a scrap piece of wood to drive the spur

center into the piece. What type of center is it? 4 prong?
Ahhh ok, that makes sense, I'll start planning for that. For the drive center, I'm not drilling a hole to start with. I'm making the X with the band saw and using the four prong center that I remove and drive into the piece with a rubber mallet. Thanks!

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post #5 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slatron25 View Post
As far as the drive center, are you drilling a small hole for the point
Excellent idea! I cant believe I didn't think of this!

Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsmen can hide his mistakes!
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post #6 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 07:32 AM
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Agree with previous advice given.

JMHO, two prong centers get a better bite and ends of spindle or bowl do not have to perfectly square.

Majority of the time just mark out center with center finder, punch a center hole with awl & mallet than hammer in center with mallet. Occasional saw a slot for prongs with handsaw.

My favorite two prong center:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Drive_Centers___2_Prong_Drive_ Center___2_drive_center_1?Args=

Also like and have this one:
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Catego ry_Code=lathes-acc-dc-2p

Have an assortment of light & heavy duty four prong centers that collect more dust than use.

For skinny spindles and pens use this drive center, just wish had bought carbide tip. Really need light touch.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Lathe-Center-MT2/H5789

Shop around for best price.
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post #7 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 10:38 AM
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Just another point on the loose drive spur. Are you making sure you lock down the tailstock itself? I know someone who didnít do that (several times) and when they advanced the quill it would tighten (somewhat) and then the tailstock would move back very very slowly.
I agree with Wildwood that two prong can be very good. Most are typically made for face work (bowl orientation).
For end grain be careful of pounding them in too hard or you can split the spindle along the grain.

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post #8 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscobob View Post
On hardwood you need to cut slots in the blank for your drive spur to bite into, you shouldn't use your tailstock to put excess pressure on the piece, just enough to hold it against the spur. Ditto what Slat said about waste on both ends.

Nice looking mallet you got there, good job.
I'm the lazy type. I mark the center, punch a tiny hole with a center punch and always use the tailstock to seat the spur, then back it off a little to release pressure. Just turned 18 maple chair spindles, did not miss a beat.

I know it's bad practice, but remember I said I'm lazy.
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post #9 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice! I'll give it another whirl (sorry for the bad pun) tonight.

Ut Prosim
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post #10 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 04:59 PM
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Only time have ever split a spindle blank pounding my two prong or Grizzly dead center into an end of blank, when wood not the best or already cracked. If dealing with solid wood not much chance of splitting.

Takes couple of hits with a mallet to indent wood, install in headstock, bring up tailstock and live center and snug up. Like already posted can also get by with just a center hole and snug up with tailstock and live center too.
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post #11 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 07:42 PM
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Use a mallet to drive the spur drive into your blank. My buddy had broken two tailstock castings on his jet from cranking it trying to set the spurs. If you want to avoid all the hassle, do yourself a favor and try out a steb center on both ends. Here's a link to Penn State. They offer some generic ones that are priced quite reasonably.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC1.html

Mike Hawkins
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post #12 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
Use a mallet to drive the spur drive into your blank. My buddy had broken two tailstock castings on his jet from cranking it trying to set the spurs. If you want to avoid all the hassle, do yourself a favor and try out a steb center on both ends. Here's a link to Penn State. They offer some generic ones that are priced quite reasonably.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC1.html

Mike Hawkins
Thanks for the link Mike, I'll check it out. For the record, I have been driving the spur into the piece with a rubber mallet. Now I can do it with my completed wooden mallet! :)


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post #13 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 09:18 PM
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She's a beauty.

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post #14 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
If you want to avoid all the hassle, do yourself a favor and try out a steb center on both ends. Here's a link to Penn State. They offer some generic ones that are priced quite reasonably.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTQC1.html

Mike Hawkins
Mike, I'm a little lost with that link. Would that be a replacement for the center drive? In the description, it says "Requires Jaws that close to 1/ 4" inside. Compatible with "C" series #2 and #3 Jaws"

Err Como? Do I need to pick up something else while I'm there?

Ut Prosim
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post #15 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 10:16 PM
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He might have meant this one assuming your lathe is a #2 Morse taper.

Tim
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post #16 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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He might have meant this one assuming your lathe is a #2 Morse taper.
Ahhh yeah, that looks a little more like what I need I think (of course I have no real idea what I need

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post #17 of 25 Old 09-13-2011, 11:16 PM
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You can get the same one here for $13.39
http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCENTSS22-1-Inch-Center/dp/B000KICD52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315969818&sr=8-1I have found most things from PSI is cheaper on Amazon (if it is offered on Amazon) and many times they have free shipping.

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post #18 of 25 Old 09-14-2011, 02:01 AM
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trying to help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylormade View Post
So I'm having a blast getting to know my lathe. Thanks for all the tips you've given me thus far. I do have a few questions though:

I'm having a hard time keeping the drive spur in the workpiece. It starts there, no problem but after several minutes, it starts spinning free and I have to crank down on the tailstock to get it going again. Eventually it gets to the point where I've worn a hole in the piece where it meets the drive spur. I have to make a trip to the band saw to take a slice off the end and start all over again.

Also, and this is the bigger problem: How do you finish the ends where the spurs meet the piece? I've turned a few small test pieces, a mini baseball bat and tonight I took my chances trying to make a wooden mallet. I got the handle turned and the mallet itself, but I'm not sure how to finish the ends.

It's made from scrap cherry, oak and hog.

My 2 cents -No hitting wood onto head stock, damage bearing. Solution 7 piece multi spur drive (Penn state lcentset $110 bucks on sale 60bucks) amazon $54 bucks. End of problem for head stock, damn near bought another set. Money well spent and look how many different configeration of spur drive you get.Tail stock, Sorby 3/4 in.revolving super drive (lcenttse) 40 bucks.at Penn state.

You may want check your tail stock during operation,could be creeping, My jet lathes did, solution I bought beefier sq, washers. fits in the track. Lite touch t/s will not budge.

Too finish end pieces try using a jamb chuck, keeps everything concentric. A little oversize (hole) use masking tape to make adjustment for nice snug fit. Ron Marietta Ga

Last edited by ronjboucher; 09-14-2011 at 02:06 AM.
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post #19 of 25 Old 09-14-2011, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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My 2 cents -No hitting wood onto head stock, damage bearing. Solution 7 piece multi spur drive (Penn state lcentset $110 bucks on sale 60bucks) amazon $54 bucks. End of problem for head stock, damn near bought another set. Money well spent and look how many different configeration of spur drive you get.Tail stock, Sorby 3/4 in.revolving super drive (lcenttse) 40 bucks.at Penn state.

You may want check your tail stock during operation,could be creeping, My jet lathes did, solution I bought beefier sq, washers. fits in the track. Lite touch t/s will not budge.

Too finish end pieces try using a jamb chuck, keeps everything concentric. A little oversize (hole) use masking tape to make adjustment for nice snug fit. Ron Marietta Ga
Thanks for your input Ron. I'm not hitting the wood onto the spur while it's on the lathe, I'm removing the spur, then driving it into the piece. I don't have any chucks, but that's something I can definitely check into. Thanks!

Ut Prosim
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post #20 of 25 Old 09-17-2011, 10:38 AM
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more 2 cents help

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Originally Posted by Taylormade View Post
Thanks for your input Ron. I'm not hitting the wood onto the spur while it's on the lathe, I'm removing the spur, then driving it into the piece. I don't have any chucks, but that's something I can definitely check into. Thanks!
If I may, I do believe I have solved the how too, in holding wood and finish product in the head stock, at a reasonable price.No spindles please.

1. woodcraft sells a tap to the configuration of my spindle (jet)1 in. 10tpi
2. I like to use 1 1/2 in 3x3 sq. yellow pine as the main block.
3. Follow the direction on the tap box for drill size, the side going the head stock, I use a relieve hole so the wood sit against the spindle.
4. next I glue a piece of luan 3x3in. to the waste block

Going to make a bowl, make round and clean face and glue waste block to wood. Bowl is done even the finish only thing left is the bottom. Carefully using a parting tool 3/32 thick blade, cut into the luan till the part is severed. Note: need to glue a fresh piece of luan to waste block.

Now going to make a jamb check (mallet head) glue a piece if (w/e) to the waste block. Make hole to snug fit your turn mallet. It turns concentric, will not damage finish. and you can turn a fancy design.
Works every time, the possibilities are endless.
PS I have a small box of waste block cheaper than chucks and every thing is the way I left it nice and round and concentric, no adjustment needed. Ron Marietta Ga
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