First Bowl - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 37 Old 05-30-2013, 07:45 PM
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Nice work. Has the big bitten!

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post #22 of 37 Old 05-31-2013, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys....yeah Dave this is addictive.
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post #23 of 37 Old 05-31-2013, 07:56 AM
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Thanks guys....yeah Dave this is addictive.
Good good, that means we'll be seeing more.

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post #24 of 37 Old 05-31-2013, 05:48 PM
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Yeah it was just whatever cheap wood screws i had..read not to use drywall screws and that wood screws would work...well 2 of the 4 broke off in it..dug one out..that other isnt wanting to come out so i tossed it...

Attachment 71703

Bums me out..bottom shape was looking good on that one.

So machine screws hold a lot better? may have to go find some

Thats a good looking bowl there , nice work indeed .
Give the base a good sand and polish , get those metal screws shining , make a feature of them and only we will know how they really got to stay in there


Yep , machine screws , and use screws that are tight , almost threaded as it were , in the faceplate holes,
The 'G' forces when the lathe starts up can be enough to shunt screws that are sloppy in the hole and weaken them and the snapping can soon follow.
The same forces will overtighten faceplates and chucks that are loose or merely finger tightened onto the threaded spindle .
No tool is needed , but give it a good strong wrench , with both hands. It should come off the same way .

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post #25 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Finally turned one that i think turned out awesome....i.wanted to see how thin i could go on it..how good my control was....too bad its green and more than likely going to crack in half....we will see what happens...but for now....im proud of this one.. :-)

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Any tips on how i can prevent it from being scrap would be great..i have it sitting in a bag of shavings right now...going to oil it up every day or so...
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post #26 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtindell
Finally turned one that i think turned out awesome....i.wanted to see how thin i could go on it..how good my control was....too bad its green and more than likely going to crack in half....we will see what happens...but for now....im proud of this one.. :-)

Any tips on how i can prevent it from being scrap would be great..i have it sitting in a bag of shavings right now...going to oil it up every day or so...
others may have better ideas but I have used Danish oil on mine at this stage. is seems to slow down the drying and reduce cracking. it will warp, but after it has warped I dress the bottom at a disc sander so it sits flat.
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post #27 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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others may have better ideas but I have used Danish oil on mine at this stage. is seems to slow down the drying and reduce cracking. it will warp, but after it has warped I dress the bottom at a disc sander so it sits flat.
Beautiful..a little warping is ok..just dont need it to crack..thank you!
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post #28 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 04:10 PM
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Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?

Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .
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post #29 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?

Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .
Its about 7.5"x2.5" so just soak it until wont take any more?
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post #30 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuka Jock View Post
Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?

Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .
Mineral oil, is that turps?

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post #31 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 06:12 PM
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Mineral oil, is that turps?
No, not sure of the name in Australia. This is the Wiki definition

"A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1] The name mineral oil by itself is imprecise, having been used to label many specific oils over the past few centuries. Other names, similarly imprecise, include white oil, liquid paraffin, and liquid petroleum. Baby oil refers to a perfumed mineral oil."


Clear oil, almost no odour, light weight. Perfume is added then it is sold as Baby Oil in many places.

Mineral oil is one of the finishes used for cutting boards.

You may be thinking about Mineral Spirits, which is solvent. Not the same as turpentine but they are both used as solvents.
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post #32 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 07:32 PM
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No, not sure of the name in Australia. This is the Wiki definition

"A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1] The name mineral oil by itself is imprecise, having been used to label many specific oils over the past few centuries. Other names, similarly imprecise, include white oil, liquid paraffin, and liquid petroleum. Baby oil refers to a perfumed mineral oil."

Clear oil, almost no odour, light weight. Perfume is added then it is sold as Baby Oil in many places.

Mineral oil is one of the finishes used for cutting boards.

You may be thinking about Mineral Spirits, which is solvent. Not the same as turpentine but they are both used as solvents.
I might google methylated spirits (metho) and see if that comes under that category. I'm guessing that might be what you call mineral spirits. Can you use Mineral spirits? I know alcoholics used to use it mixed with cordial. Different purpose - then again - infuse it, replace other liquids and soak in it.

Wow the first link took me back 1/4 of a century back to my high school days

Won't be drinking liquid paraffin in a hurry

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Last edited by DaveTTC; 06-05-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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post #33 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 07:49 PM
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I might google methylated spirits (metho) and see if that comes under that category. I'm guessing that might be what you call mineral spirits. Can you use Mineral spirits? I know alcoholics used to use it mixed with cordial. Different purpose - then again - infuse it, replace other liquids and soak in it.
Methylated spirits is the name in the UK for what is called Denatured Alcohol (DNA) in the US. Both contain methyl alcohol to make the product not drinkable and so there is no alcohol tax applied.

Sad to say in the UK a number of down-and-outs may drink methylated spirits. The methyl alcohol does a lot of damage.

In the US, there are cheap wines which are sold in bulk containers. Same buzz but not as much immediate damage.

The US mineral spirits does not contain any alcohol. Just a light distillate solvent. I do not know where the name came from.
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post #34 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 08:11 PM
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Does DNA / metho do the same as a mineral oil (is it in the range of mineral oil you mentioned earlier)



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Originally Posted by Manuka Jock View Post
Thats a very fine bowl , how big is it ?

Before you seal it up with danish oil you could saturate it with mineral oil and keep doing so until it has finished moving .
With luck , as well as slowing down the seasoning rate , the oil will replace the moisture in the wood , reduce the shrinkage , and prevent cracking .

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post #35 of 37 Old 06-05-2013, 08:30 PM
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Dave

Does DNA / metho do the same as a mineral oil (is it in the range of mineral oil you mentioned earlier)
No DNA/Methylated spirits is alcohol which is a solvent so evapourates.

Mineral oil will soak into the grain of the wood. It will eventually dry out and need to be replenished.

I see a number of cutting board products which are a combination of mineral oil and e.g., beeswax.
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post #36 of 37 Old 06-06-2013, 03:37 AM
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Its about 7.5"x2.5" so just soak it until wont take any more?
Yes , that will do it . Leave it in there for a while , and then let it drain dry . keep an eye on it , and don't be shy about doing it again .
When it is stable , polish it by hand with a cloth .

If by chance it does crack , CA glue it and emery paper sand it .
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post #37 of 37 Old 06-06-2013, 03:44 AM
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Mineral oil, is that turps?
As stated above , its' a petroleum by-product
Also called paraffin oil here. Paraffin as in paraffin wax candles ,
I get it from the Rural Feed supply places . Farmers use it on their animal stock , as a laxative and the like apparently.

Town Veterinarians have it too , but at twice the price .
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